Topic: 1976 CB550K Project

[ricvicious]

Hi everyone! Before I get to my build, I just wanted to say thanks for all that have contributed to putting this forum together.  I purchased my bike this past summer but have been trolling this forum for about a year now.  You guys have provided inspiration as well as insight into some of the problems that I have run into during the past few months.  This forum has been a godsend for someone who is just getting his feet wet in the world of vintage Honda's.   Thanks again!

On to the build!  I purchased a 1976 CB550K (produced in October of 1975) on eBay and had it shipped to Connecticut from Michigan.  The bike proved to be in relatively good shape and was in pretty good running condition considering it was a 38 year old bike.  The tank and fenders have a few small dents and the rims are a little pitted.  The gas tank appears to have been painted with black house paint but has minimal rust internally or externally.  The battery needed to be replaced as well as the spark plugs.  The motorcycle was shipped with two seats (an after-market and the original)  although the original was in pretty bad shape.  It also came with a back-up engine that I don't know much about other than it still has compression.  It appears that the previous owner used it for parts as a few of them are missing.   The only real issue that I have seen is the fact the the bike idles funny.  I have to adjust the idle quite a bit throughout the ride.  I need to tighten the idle screw when I start the bike up and keep it that way until the bike warms up.  Otherwise the bike will just stall.  Once I'm a few miles into the ride, I then need to loosen it in order to return it to about 1300 rpms.  Otherwise the rpms seems to hover at about 3500 rpms.  Also, the electrical system seems to be in a bit if shambles.  The starter does not work and the turn signals don't work either. 

Anyway...I am hoping to get the bike mechanically sound and then make some minor aesthetic modifications.  The bike will be used for entertainment purposes only and I don't plan on any highway riding.  Mostly country roads and cruising around the beach area.  I'll attach some pictures of the bike as I originally received it and post as many pictures as I can throughout the build /mod process.  I don't anticipate this being a quick project as I am expecting my first child on Christmas day and have to assume that I will not have a lot of spare time on my hands. 

What I hope to accomplish with this bike:
1. Figure out the idle issue. 
2. Repaint the tank.
3. Refurbish the seat and/or build a new new flat seat.
4. Bob and paint the fenders.
5. Repaint the engine.
6. Replace the taillight and turn signals with something smaller.   
7. Replace the stock bars with clip-ons.
8. Remove the starter assembly (I want a kick start only).
9. Replace and relocate the battery.
10. Relocate the electronics.
11.Remove any unnecessary bits and detab.

I'm sure there other things that will arise I get into the project. 

[Bankerdanny]

Welcome.

looks like a great base to start from.

Your carbs do not have a fast idle cam. So when you start it cold with the choke on you will need to use the throttle to keep the RPM's up. The idle screw is to set the speed once the bike is warmed up enough to turn the choke off. Once warmed up the idle speed should be 750-1000 rpms.

I would do the 3,000 mile tuneup, which is basically adjusting the valves and points, gapping the plugs and checking the timing. Then I would synch the carbs. You can get a serviceable set of vacuum gauges for this off eBay for less than $50. This is the set I have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Carburetor-Synchronizer-4-Vacuum-Gauges-/261345382444?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3cd966102c&vxp=mtr

There are some tools worth investing in if you are going to own vintage Japanese bikes, one of which is a set of screwdrivers in JIS style. The screws on your bike look like phillips, but they are really JIS. The difference is subtle but important and regular phillips style bits tend to strip out JIS screw heads if the screws are stuck, which they almost always are. This is the set I have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vessel-700-KIT-P123-JIS-3-PC-SUPER-Cushion-Gel-Handle-Cross-Tip-Screwdriver-Set-/290882424068?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item43b9f18d04&vxp=mtr

Finally, consider an inexpensive compression tester. Just make sure it has the 10mm adapter. Not all do.

[ricvicious]

Thanks for the info!  I will certainly do the 3000 mile tune up and pick up the proper tools.  I was wondering why I was stripping some bolts. 

Would it be counterproductive to do the tuneup now and then have the bike sit through the winter?  ......Or should I just wait to tune it in the spring? 

I have begun work on restoring the factory seat.  I had originally brought the seat to two local upholsterers and one wanted $150 to recover it and the other wanted $400!!  Tat being said, I decided to order a new seat cover from eBay and was pleasantly surprised at the quality.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/160889716791?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649  It cost me $67 which included shipping.  I also bought new trim on eBay for $5.  Unfortunately, I did not use it.  It didn't hold the edge very well.  I decided to cut the trim off of the original cover and sanded and spray painted it flat black as the fake chrome finish was in really bad shape.  I don't have very high expectations that the spray paint won't chip, but it should look pretty good until I can build my flat seat.  Either way, the old trim held the edge much better. 

The replacement was pretty easy.  My foam was in pretty good shape so I did not have to replace or repair it.  The cover comes preformed and slides right over the foam.  The only tricky part is trying to get it centered as well as pulling it tight enough to remove any bumps in the vinyl.  I found it was easiest when I had two sets of hands.  The directions called for the use of contact cement, however, I tried it on a small section and didn't think that it was all that helpful.  Once the cover was centered, I had my wife pull the vinyl over the edge and hold it until I was able to slip the edging back on and bend the metal tabs back in place.  I am extremely satisfied with the end product and can't imagine that I would have been any happier if I had spent the money for someone else to do it. 

Next project- bob the rear fender and replace the taillight. 

[Bankerdanny]

I don't think that it will hurt to do the tuneup now. Once the various gaps are set they should not change over the winter. Do an oil and filter change too.

Drain the carbs. Many people will add Stabil or something like it to the gas. Personally I have never had problem with 4-5 month old gas, I just make sure the tank is full to avoid condensation. But you do want to drain the carbs because over the winter the gas can start to evaporate and gum stuff up.

[ricvicious]

Sounds good!  I gapped the plugs a couple of weeks ago when I replaced them.  I was having a stalling issue when I first got the bike and replacing the plugs solved that issue.  I will plan on replacing the oil and filter.  I am going to strip the tank and repaint it this winter so keeping that shouldn't be an issue but will make sure to drain the carbs. 

Here are a couple of pictures of the finished seat. 

[Bankerdanny]

The seat turned out great. Have you had the carbs off for cleaning? If not that is a good Winter project too.

[deafcaferacer]

Couldn't help but notice three sets of pegs. I assume 2nd set (OEM) is used for highway riding and 3rd set was put in for passenger use while on the highway as well?