Author Topic: DIY Egli Sohc 4 (Read 135869 times)

mec · « **Reply #125 on:** February 07, 2009, 12:43:41 PM »

hi all,

it was enough time to make some progress on my cnc tutorial. the result is a 1:3 modell of my adjustable fork clamps.
the modell uses M2 and M3 screws, the real one will have M6, M8 ans M10.
as seen in the pics, there are some minor problems to be sorted out: the lower clamp does have the weight saving holes on the upper side instead of the lower side, the adjusting screw is M3 instead of M2 (1:1 will have M6).
the drawings do not consider the fork stops.

explanation: the steering bolt does have a M25x1 thread on the lower side and a M24x1 on top. one M25x1 nut and two M24x1 nuts on top, one to adjust the steering bearings and one to fix the upper clamp. this makes it possible to firmly fasten the fork clamps. both clamps will have a 6mm hole transversal as will have the bolt two M6 threads. thus enables to adjust the trail by simply turning the adjusting screws (both the same amount). after that you will have to tighten the big nuts carefully.

it must have been in 1985 or 86, a GSXR 750 with this setup proved his competitiveness by winning a race to the national championsship in austria.

mec

Ecosse · « **Reply #126 on:** February 07, 2009, 02:06:19 PM »

very fascinating idea. i'm interested in seeing your results, milling and track testing both. Your kick stand too is as the rest of your creation.

looking at your scale model it just struck me you may be one of those with the right combination of skill, perfectionism, and curiosity to machine a complete scale model.

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #127 on:** February 07, 2009, 05:55:49 PM »

Sigh......

I don't know about Ecosse....

but I feel almost...... inadequate?

Almost as if I could never do my bike justice.

billybobobrain · « **Reply #128 on:** February 07, 2009, 09:05:27 PM »

That is truly a work of art!

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #129 on:** February 08, 2009, 03:27:55 AM »

Beautiful work mate, Kelvin Franks (Franks Racing) in South Australia makes beautiful billet trees with adjustable offset for some of our bigger race teams, and of course, for the consumer, here's a pic:

http://www.franksracing.com.au/clamps.htm

Cheers, Terry.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #130 on:** February 08, 2009, 09:49:18 AM »

Nice work he does, Terry. Can't you get him to do a set for the 1975-77 GL1000 front end so we can adapt the forks to the CB750? RR

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #131 on:** February 08, 2009, 09:53:03 AM »

Mec, have you explored the concept of adapting a Triumph magneto, late Honda, or rare earth magnet charging system so we can eliminate the battery altogether?

You appear to have the skills/knowledge to do so. Thanks. RR

mec · « **Reply #132 on:** February 08, 2009, 11:57:03 AM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on February 08, 2009, 03:27:55 AM

Beautiful work mate, Kelvin Franks (Franks Racing) in South Australia makes beautiful billet trees with adjustable offset for some of our bigger race teams, and of course, for the consumer
Cheers, Terry.

hi,
beautiful clamps.
I considered the excenter clamps too, but they were second on my list.
I prefered the "steering bolt sliding system", however knowing about the fact to loose some stability of the system (which is only theoretically to my mind). the positive side of the sliding system is its ease to adjust, adjusting within the complete travel of its 20mm (or whatever you designed it) and not to have extra parts (excenters) to take with.

Quote from: Ricky_Racer on February 08, 2009, 09:53:03 AM

Mec, have you explored the concept of adapting a Triumph magneto, late Honda, or rare earth magnet charging system so we can eliminate the battery altogether?

You appear to have the skills/knowledge to do so. Thanks. RR

it seems that there are some misunderstandings (probably caused by my poor english??)
"rare earth magnet charging system so we can eliminate the battery": what is the charging system for, if not to charge the battery. seems to be a contradiction.

there are some points to clarify:
do you have lights or is it for racing only. with e-start, or without?

# for race only: I am sure that there are magnetic ignition systems on the market (no need for batt). but at present the Li-ion accu technology has made such a progress, that its well to be considered for racing (lightweight, 15 minutes for a complete charge, no loss at the crankshaft).
# with lights: you need current for the lamps too, a second coil so the magnet induces current. my small motorbike had this system. I do not know if there is something available like that fitting to our crankcase and crankshaft, but with some machining it can be done for sure.
# with e-start: same system and big batt.

lets go offtopic.
more or less interesting for the handcraft workers. the picture shows the last mountainbike out of a series of three I build in 1993.
this design shows 10cm travel on the front as on the rear wheel, the rear paioli damper adjustable in rebound damping as the spring was adjustable, front and rear disk brakes. the bike had full adjustable rake as was the angle of the seatmount. the location of the pedalaxis was adjustable as the leverage of the rear suspension. it was not such a great thing to develope all this finesses because I was involved in 2 wheel technology a long time before. I remember the curious excrescences mountainbike technics made with a smile (a make named Checkered Pig using a ring of a sewage tubing as the rear damper

)

mec

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #133 on:** February 08, 2009, 12:04:03 PM »

Hi Mec,

Thanks for the response. My primary interest was in shrinking the size of the lump hung out of the left side of our CB750 motors and still being able to kick start the bike as well as drive normal lighting. I saw narrower Triumph stators adapted to the CB750 "back in the day." Electrics are not my strong suit and my question was poorly stated, but thanks for your reply. RR

Ecosse · « **Reply #134 on:** February 08, 2009, 12:22:10 PM »

mec, you evil genius you! That's a complement.

nice mountain bike.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #135 on:** February 08, 2009, 01:40:08 PM »

Quote from: Ricky_Racer on February 08, 2009, 09:49:18 AM

Nice work he does, Terry. Can't you get him to do a set for the 1975-77 GL1000 front end so we can adapt the forks to the CB750? RR

No worries RR, Kelvin Franks will build any triple clamps to your design, and as you can see, he does beautiful work. Did you get my email about my 32 litre endurance tank offer? Cheers, Terry.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #136 on:** February 08, 2009, 01:51:42 PM »

Hi Terry,

Thanks. I'll be in touch with Frank sometime later... and yes I did get your email. As tempted as I am, my current circumstances "won't allow me to participate" as they say in polite circles. It's a beautiful piece of kit, but... {sigh}

I apologize for not responding personally and earlier. But thank you for thinking of me, Brother.. RR

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #137 on:** February 09, 2009, 04:24:38 AM »

No worries mate, I'll stick them on EBay. Cheers, Terry.

benly- ben · « **Reply #138 on:** February 11, 2009, 02:17:43 PM »

ive started sucking my thumb again

rachet · « **Reply #139 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:17:09 PM »

I've just discovered this thread and Wow-E-Wow-E-WOW!!! We want More! You have Mad Skillz Mec!

Rachet~

mec · « **Reply #140 on:** February 22, 2009, 10:34:30 AM »

hello,

playing with my new mini-cnc (costed me 10.000 hairs, the same amount still left

the upper and lower clamp are ready to put on the analog mill for end preparations like drilling, "threadening", slicening.

my two cats do not produce such a great amount of crap as my cnc does.

pic 4 shows a template to position the half-milled clamp upside down for milling the opposite side.

mec

mec · « **Reply #141 on:** February 22, 2009, 10:37:48 AM »

pictures tell more than thousand words

lower clamp 35mm, upper 30mm, both Al 7075

mec

Spikeybike · « **Reply #142 on:** February 22, 2009, 12:31:52 PM »

geeeesus....talk about one off

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #143 on:** February 22, 2009, 02:02:50 PM »

I've NEVER been so jealous in my life. Your own CNC?
Wanna adopt a 41 year old boy?

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #144 on:** February 22, 2009, 03:08:53 PM »

Quote

Wanna adopt a 41 year old boy?

Take a number and stand in line.....

Mick

mec · « **Reply #145 on:** February 23, 2009, 04:20:48 AM »

Quote from: 78CB750CAFE on February 22, 2009, 02:02:50 PM

Wanna adopt a 41 year old boy?

hello

sorry, our laws do not allow to adopt if you (me) are over 40 years old.

for me, it has ever been a dream to own a cnc. but I also was afraid of all the computer stuff that comes with it. I hate to sit all the time in front of the desktop and anger with all bugs or hardly understandable programms.
but times getting better, the programms became more userfriendly.
most I am astonished that this little mill http://www.step-four.at/hp2/index.php?action=1482 is able to do a 1:1 fork clamp of Al 7075, a very hard aluminium alloy.

the drawings I make in Corel Draw 12, mill software is XpertMill, from step-four.

mec

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #146 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:34:40 AM »

G'Day Mec, that looks fantastic mate! Am I right in guessing that the mill motor isn't much bigger than a dremel tool? Dammit, now I want one! Cheers, Terry.

mec · « **Reply #147 on:** March 01, 2009, 03:16:54 AM »

hello terry,

you are right, the motor (800W, 230V) of the mill isn´t much bigger than my dremel.
I cant believe that this mill is able to do the clamps 1:1 out of very hard 7075 alu

because the mill corpus looks very unstable and the motor really small.
I thought this mill is good for foam or styro, maybe plywood.

of course the results of the mill cant be compared with the piece of art done on an 500K € cnc mill.

some pics of my work, done last week. one photo shows shortened drills, because my wabeco mill is not large enough to handle the dimension (z-axis).

mec

mec · « **Reply #148 on:** March 01, 2009, 03:26:01 AM »

some more pics:

first photo shows the steering bearing adjusting nut
second pic adjustable fork stop

the three pics at the end are good for a qiuz: which setup is best for slow twisty roads?

mec

p.s.: next step is puting the bike on the dyno for break in and looking for power curves.

754 · « **Reply #149 on:** March 01, 2009, 09:59:24 AM »

MEC,
look for a set of stub drills, or srewmachine length..

You are very brave slitting that high off the table.

I would not even try it, unless clamped closer to the cut..

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Author Topic: DIY Egli Sohc 4 (Read 135869 times)

billybobobrain