Author Topic: POR-15 question (Read 2580 times)

andy8190 · « **on:** February 05, 2014, 12:33:48 PM »

i recently lined a tank with this, my second tank to do. After it set up I found a tiny pin hole leak. My question is has anyone gotten the 8 ounce size and ever relined it over the existing liner to seal up that small leak? i have some jb weld over it right now sealing it till i can do a more perminant seal.

solo 2 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 05, 2014, 04:30:19 PM »

I don't know this 100% but I don't think you can recoat, POR15 is great if the directions are followed to the 'T' but is known to fail if deviated from. I would contact them and ask. That being said JB weld is a very effective leak sealer, gas won't touch it once cured.

calj737 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 05, 2014, 04:57:39 PM »

I'm surprised that the liner didn't seal the pinholes? Did you fully coat the inside? You can not cover POR with POR.

Medyo Bastos · « **Reply #3 on:** February 05, 2014, 05:31:27 PM »

por15 wont seal pinholes

andy8190 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 05, 2014, 06:37:31 PM »

I put tape over the pinhole to keep por from coming out put apparently it leaked through and did not seal the pinhole. What I may do is just put some more jb weld on, and then get it professionally sprayed and that should be good huh?

calj737 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 05, 2014, 07:02:46 PM »

If you're having it resprayed, have someone TIG weld the small holes. MIG is fine too, even brazing works. Just gotta get to bare metal, so a paint job is in store.

andy8190 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 05, 2014, 07:13:57 PM »

What about silver solder or plain solder for one very tiny pinhole?

krusty · « **Reply #7 on:** February 05, 2014, 07:52:18 PM »

Recently had the same thing. Bought a tank that had been POR'd but not used. The PO hadn't stripped off the old paint before doing it. I stripped it and found pin holes. The PO had found a few and brazed them. I soldered the holes that I found, plain solder, and quite easy to do.
If you decide to solder, tap the hole in slightly below the surface so that the solder can pool and achieve a decent thickness.

andy8190 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 05, 2014, 07:54:01 PM »

You mean like tap it in with a punch a little?

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krusty · « **Reply #9 on:** February 05, 2014, 08:16:30 PM »

Something that will make small depression about 10mm-20mm diam and about 1mm at its deepest in the centre where the hole is.

andy8190 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 05, 2014, 08:17:51 PM »

That's a big diameter

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krusty · « **Reply #11 on:** February 05, 2014, 08:37:52 PM »

That's less than 1". The metal inside around the pin hole can be thin so it helps to have the solder cover an area bigger than just the hole. The pic shows the PO's brazed holes and you can just make out the soldered holes close by.

andy8190 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 05, 2014, 08:38:26 PM »

Gotcha.

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andy8190 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 05, 2014, 08:46:05 PM »

Anybody have any experience and tips on this soldering, little nervous bout pointing a flame at the tank ha

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krusty · « **Reply #14 on:** February 05, 2014, 09:06:10 PM »

There are a few threads on this. I noticed one by a German member that showed how to fill dents with lead rather than bondo. The principle is the same except that he was doing it on a bigger scale.
Has the tank had fuel in it if so then it must be thoroughly washed out be fore going anywhere near a naked flame - self evident.
Use plumbers lead solder. Do not use resin core solder. The metal surface should be perfectly clean. And the area to be soldered should be treated with soldering flux. I use 'Bakers Soldering Fluid'. For a heat source I used a Primus LP gas torch. Even a big ol' soldering iron could be used but they're very slow to heat up. Best to practise on a piece of scrap metal first to get the hang of it, especially applying the right amount of heat to the metal and the solder to get it to flow.

andy8190 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 05, 2014, 09:07:49 PM »

It has had gas and I've been looking at old post on the topic, I have silver solder which I know is good, I used it to make a cable nipple or whatever it's called. I would be using a propane torch

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Don R · « **Reply #16 on:** February 05, 2014, 09:25:39 PM »

Sheet metal workers solder steel with a big iron, flux and a stick of 60/40 solder. 50/50 is what body guys use.
If you use a torch, I wash the tank with alcohol to remove the gas then water to dilute and remove the alcohol, leave the cap open or masking tape it just in case. Fill it with argon, nitrogen, co2, any inert gas will help. Dry ice works too, it's co2.

andy8190 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 05, 2014, 09:27:35 PM »

I was also considering buying the 8ounce of Por-15 and just brushing it on the outside of the pinhole leak and putting the cloth patch on the brushing over that. The small 8 ounce only cost like 15 dollars I think

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kghost · « **Reply #18 on:** February 06, 2014, 12:15:02 AM »

Quote from: andy8190 on February 05, 2014, 07:13:57 PM

What about silver solder or plain solder for one very tiny pinhole?

There is never just one tiny pinhole.

Hopefully the POR you used sealed all the other ones. Or about to be ones.

The problem you will have is the heat application of closing that pin hole properly will damage the coating you already installed.

andy8190 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 06, 2014, 05:53:16 AM »

Looks like I will leave the jb weld on for a while, it's not leaking right now and then I will just buy that small thing of Por and paint the outside and patch it then paint again

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AJK · « **Reply #20 on:** February 07, 2014, 03:31:29 AM »

If your curious, this is what the inside looks lined with POR15.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=133734.msg1502750#msg1502750

There were no pinholes but it was brazed sometime in its past life near the badge area due to a large dent. I lead wiped it to get a general shape then handed it over to my painter for final work & painting. My tank wasn't bad on the inside, just some light surface rust which cleaned up with the POR acid treatment (probably just phosphoric acid actaully - same as coke). The tank held fuel just fine but it didn't leave me with confidence that it would go the long haul so i got my painter to line it together with the paint job. I can forget about it now. Like anything, prep is everything.

Pics below is the same tank after stripping the old paint off. Avatar is the same tank afterwards.

PS: Although JBWeld is great stuff (I use it a lot) & it is rated for fuel jobs like this, I personally think tanks need to be metal filled to do the job properly. JBWeld does have its limitations.

andy8190 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 07, 2014, 05:43:50 AM »

The jb weld is temp, I am going to paint the outside of the pinhole with por15 and a patch but not add any to the inside since it's already sealed

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RAFster122s · « **Reply #22 on:** February 09, 2014, 08:15:07 PM »

Applying some fiberglass cloth with POR-15 (black) soaking it would serve as a patch for the outside of the tank. Just have to get adhesion between the tank and the POR. Trick on POR is to have it very dry and free of any oils or chemicals preventing the adhesion. Water will cause it to flash cure if and it just skins over then. Trapping moisture is a recipe for disaster.

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Author Topic: POR-15 question (Read 2580 times)

AJK