Topic: 1978 750K Front Brake Pad Removal/Brake Bleed

[cjackel]

I own the Clymer, Honda, and Haynes repair manuals.

All have different procedures for removing/installing the front brake pads.

1. Why does the Clymers tell you to remove the front wheel ?
2. Each has different locations for lubricating with high temp silicone.
3. Why does the Haynes tell you to remove the brake line at the master cylinder?

I replaced/bled the brake fluid today and discovered the piston was stuck.
This might be the cause of my 30-50 mph up/down complaint following
the fork seal replacement (see post).

Anyway, I'll test ride tomorrow. The brake feels better and I was able
to adjust it per the manual.

[Quail "Owner of the comfortable k8"]

A brake caliper is pushed out by the pressure from the master cylinder (no da).  But the caliper cylinder is returned to a no pressure postion by the square lip seal.  If the square (o-ring or I guess you can call it a square 0-ring) lip seal is hard or does not hold onto the piston when it is press out under normal usage the cylinder will let the pad stay seated onto the rotor.  If you old caliper piston is rusted and the cylinder is pitted toss it, if not rebuild it with new rubber and it is as good as day 1.

[eldar]

If possible, do not use DOT3 brake fluid. It attracts moisture which is a BIG cause of the rust and corrosion that happens. Use DOT4 or 5. They are compatible with DOT3 systems. I used 5 and it works great.

[SteveD CB500F]

Search the Archives for "DOT3", "DOT4" and "DOT5" as there has been loads of discussion on this before.

[Harry]

See http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rbrakes.html