Topic: Question about instaling headlight relays....

[78CB750CAFE]

Initially my hi/lo switch was harder to throw then it was before the relay conversion, so I ran through the whole harness checking my connections and what not, I got to the 6 pin connector to the fuse block and I found a small cut, corrosion on the connectors and a bad connection  for the main (15 amp) fuse. A quick trip to Radio Shack for waterproof butt connectors, bladed fuse holders and fuses and the bike is transformed.

Never overlook the simple stuff, use that ol dusty multi meter and check out your harness at least once a year, when stuff like this happens, you could miss a little thing and end up putting a few hundred bucks into updating the electrical system (which is still nice to do) when maybe something as stupid as a bad connection is all it would have taken to fix it.

[TwoTired]

TwoTired wrote

The stock switches are quite robust when the internal contacts are clean, even with normal wear.  They can be reconditioned to provide a low resistance/ low voltage drop connection

I appreciate all this information, and would like to read a little more about the above quote.  Do you disassemble the switches, or can you spray some stuff in there to clean them?
thanks

To get them to work as new, you generally have to dismantle clean, possibly recondition the contact area, adjust spring tension, re-lube and, reassemble.  It's tedious work, and little internal bits run and hide when the cage is opened.  But, if you do it right, and apply the right lube, you extend its life about 10-20 years, for normal operation.

Depending on the switch, you can improve operation by simply spraying an electrical contact cleaner that leaves a lubricative film  I use a product called "Klean It".  It is "Tech Spray" branded with stock no. 1628-16S, and is still labeled $2.69.  This stuff works very well for reconditioning/cleaning/lubing switches.  However, I see from their web site, it is no longer listed.  It bought this can probably 20 years ago, so it probably has Freon as a propellant, as well as a cleaner, now banned by the Gubmint and the eco-nazis lobby groups.  I'd be surprised if you can find something equivalent, and this economical today.  But, I admit, I haven't need to shop for it recently as well.

From their current list of products, I would select "Contact Cleaner II" from their list for the cleaning job, and 2111 "Contact Protectant" as a follow up.   But, I don't have current prices or direct experience with these products, just the info from their spec sheets.
http://www.techspray.com/pindex.htm#1600

Cheers,

[stresssolutions]

two tired, I appreciate the way you take the time to intelligently and concisely type out a detailed response about something which must get tiresome time after time. 

Since my 77 CB750A's switches (horn and start) seem to work fine, I'll just give them a spray for now and wait for the fun times with disassembly/reassembly.  I suspect that cracking open and spraying the solenoid relay thing might be time well spent.

Do you know where the N safety switch is on an A model? Thanks again.

[Spanner 1]

Since T.T. is off-line at this time, I thought I might reply to your Neutral Switch question.
The 750A does not have a N. switch like the K and F models, instead it has a Changing Relay that tells the bike if it is in N. L. or D. If not in N. the relay turns-off the hot to the starter solenoid.  I hope this helps, or do you have a problem in this area ?

[stresssolutions]

Thanks Spanner.

There is a bit of a problem...the N light is on almost all the time, which is not a problem, really, except when the N light goes off and the L light comes on, which means the bike is not going to start until the N light comes back on.  Sometimes that happens just by shifting into N, sometimes by lowering the sidestand,sometimes, switching the key off and on a few times.  My fear is it could happen somewhere off towards Egypt.  thanks

[Spanner 1]

My bike has quit in Egypt before ( but it was a D.O.H.C. 750 !).....had to ride home ON THE BACK OF MY GIRLFRIENDS BIKE...oh the suffering !, the stares I got , the guffahs from drivers on the Interstate !! But I digress..
Two things would effect the starting safety, 1. the L and D switch which is in the left-hand side cover behind the shifter ( yuck, 7 screws, but within the oil-filled sump ! )
2. the Relay itself.   But much more likely would be the wiring between these 2 components.
Look at the 3 wire sets coming out from the top of the afore-mentioned cover...the skinny set is from the L.and D. switch... trace it to a white 6 pole connector beside the solenoid, have a careful look at this to be sure it is clean and contacts shiny..my guess is the prob. is there. Clean it all up and see if its a cure. by the way...if in Egypt and no start on the button, a jumper wire at he connector between BLACK and YELLOW ( with red tracer ) will pass hot to the starter solenoid ( just for get-back-home , mind ! )

[stresssolutions]

Better the girlfriend's bike than a buddy's "crotch rocket".  Thanks

[Spanner 1]

What's the Temp. in Rochester, MN. now ?

[stresssolutions]

25 or so.  Some guys have been out riding the past few days, yesterday was low 40's.

[Spanner 1]

Bro.,
I looked at some pics. on Facebook ( see your other thread ) and with all due respect to the fact that you just acquired this bike ( yes?) it really needs to be cleaned as a first go round to solve or show-up problems....my piece of .... was worse than this, I rode it as soon as I could get it started, I was so impatient to ride !! Over a period of weeks all kinds of stuff went wrong...that's when I broke-down and decided to clean every electrical connection on the bike and be done with it ! It's not that daunting... undo each 'bullet' connector one-at-a-time and brighten them to a shine inc. their 'sockets'. Spray 'em with Contact Cleaner( with lubricant, not the evaporating kind)...do everything.. MY 750A 34000 miles, rattly primary chain has been 350 miles away from home with no problems...I'm sure that's what you want too !!

[TwoTired]

two tired, I appreciate the way you take the time to intelligently and concisely type out a detailed response about something which must get tiresome time after time. 

Since my 77 CB750A's switches (horn and start) seem to work fine, I'll just give them a spray for now and wait for the fun times with disassembly/reassembly.  I suspect that cracking open and spraying the solenoid relay thing might be time well spent.

Do you know where the N safety switch is on an A model? Thanks again.

Thanks for the comment!

I don't have a 750A, never had one either (almost did, but that doesn't count).  Further, I don't have any documentation on that model either.  So, I really can't help you out on specifics.  Good thing Spanner's here to help you out.    Sure seems to be more familiar with the A than I am, judging from the posts.

Good luck!