Topic: Protecting polished parts

[Hondaboy]

After polishing aluminum, metal parts, do we protect them with some sort of polyurethane, laquer, etc? Any help? Thanks

[Johnie]

Some guys do use a clear on things, but I chose not to use anything.  That way I can polish it anytime and don't have to mess with the clearcoat.  Plus, I hate yellowish clearcoat.  I can always add it later if I feel like it.

[Bob Wessner]

+1

.. but John put more time in on his than I did so his look much better.

[Retro Rocket]

You can get UV treated clear coats that do not yellow, they use these for marine applications and work very well in the marine environment, never tried them on alloy but i think i will in the near future. Someone else on the forum said that the clear dulls the finish, not too sure about this yet. Too keep a finish like Johns you must continually polish, i would rather ride....

Mick

[BobbyR]

I think heated parts may yellow. Once you have them shiny pasing a wheel over the parts keeps them shiny.

[sparty]

Okay guys and gals if you really want to keep your polished stuff looking great and protected from the elements then you must use this: http://www.master-formula.com/Sealer%20Gloss.htm

I put it on my professionally polished aluminum and have not had to touch it in over a year.  It still looks like it came off the buffing wheel.  Forgetaboutit!

Art

[Retro Rocket]

Thanks Art, i use a lot of industrial strength paints and clears, some yellow while others {poly u 400} don't, its good to hear that one actually works on alloy......

Mick

[Johnie]

You can get UV treated clear coats that do not yellow, they use these for marine applications and work very well in the marine environment, never tried them on alloy but i think i will in the near future. Someone else on the forum said that the clear dulls the finish, not too sure about this yet. Too keep a finish like Johns you must continually polish, i would rather ride....

Mick

Well, it has been a year since I did my polishing with no clear on it and still looks as good as the day I did it.  The product below is all I use on it. 

[547]

has anyone used Gord's polish and sealer? 30 bucks a bottle though

[sparty]

has anyone used Gord's polish and sealer? 30 bucks a bottle though

My dad used it on his billet polished aluminum.  That stuff is okay and the bottle will last for years, so $30 isn't bad.  But it isn't as good as what I recommend above.

Sparty

[swan]

Zoop http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal.asp

I have never tried it but heard very good things about it.

[PxTx]

I've seen some parts with Zoop sealer that looked better than any polished then powdercoated items.  I did a quick search and found a post about it.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/zoop-seal-coating-polished-aluminum-results-30516.html

[fuzzybutt]

i use wenol polish then the wenol protectant/sealer. seems to work pretty good

[Gavin]

I know a couple of metal polishers. If the part is already perfect, they both recomend just using a regular application of any cheap 'pink' glass polish such as 'windolene'. That keeps the dirt & oxides at bay. Not so great if you ride daily or through a rotten winter though.

With the weather here in the UK being less than idea for bare alu, especially with salt on the roads in winter, I use a couple of coats of 'Harlywax' - it's a block of pure carnuba wax. Much cheaper, and much better than all those liquids that have about 1% wax dissolved in overpriced solvents. That forms a layer to hold crap away from the metal, and gives the best shine of any wax/polish I've seen.

If aluminium parts are tarnished, I bring it back to s shine with Meguiars NXT mextal polish, then re-wax. Honestly, I've used a lot of others, but this stuff's incredible. I use it on all 3 of my bikes, all of which have polished parts.

I wouldn't recommend using a clear-cote or laquer on hand polished parts. The finish is too fine for the coatings to bond well. Also, lots of Jap alloys are like swiss cheese. You'll get spiders of black corrosion creeping under the laquer and then it's a pig to strip and re-polish the part.

[jworth94]

Johnie,

What process did you use to make your forks and stator cover shine like that?

Jon

[goon 1492]

I know a couple of metal polishers. If the part is already perfect, they both recomend just using a regular application of any cheap 'pink' glass polish such as 'windolene'. That keeps the dirt & oxides at bay. Not so great if you ride daily or through a rotten winter though.

With the weather here in the UK being less than idea for bare alu, especially with salt on the roads in winter, I use a couple of coats of 'Harlywax' - it's a block of pure carnuba wax. Much cheaper, and much better than all those liquids that have about 1% wax dissolved in overpriced solvents. That forms a layer to hold crap away from the metal, and gives the best shine of any wax/polish I've seen.

If aluminium parts are tarnished, I bring it back to s shine with Meguiars NXT mextal polish, then re-wax. Honestly, I've used a lot of others, but this stuff's incredible. I use it on all 3 of my bikes, all of which have polished parts.

I wouldn't recommend using a clear-cote or laquer on hand polished parts. The finish is too fine for the coatings to bond well. Also, lots of Jap alloys are like swiss cheese. You'll get spiders of black corrosion creeping under the laquer and then it's a pig to strip and re-polish the part.

OK brother not to hijack but you gotta show some pics of that monster in your avatar...
That big bad front tire makes me want to go to a concert and get drunk and crazy! No just kidding but I do too use meguiars,never heard of that kind but I will check into it and the Harlywax, hopefully its available here in the states. If not I will go with spartys reccomendations.

[Johnie]

Johnie,

What process did you use to make your forks and stator cover shine like that?

Jon

Jon...first I used a stripper to get off the Honda clearcoat that yellows after a period of years.  Then I bought a Sears 6 inch buffing wheel and 3 cotton wheels.  Then I got red, green and white rouge at Sears.  The rouge is the grit compound you put on the wheel to remove the bad finish and get the aluminum down to a cleaner finish.  First I used the red rouge as it has more grit, then used the green and then finished with the fine white rouge.  You have to take your time.  Be sure to wear a dust mask or you will be coughing that crap up for a while.  I also wore safety glasses.  You will need some gloves as the parts get hot.  Also, take a marker and write on the side of the wheel what color rouge it is for as you do not want to contaminate the wheels with different color rouge.  Use only a dedicated cotton wheel for each color.  It will take a bit for you to get the hang of it.  If I was not satisfied I did it over to get what I wanted.  I was lucky to have side covers and forks with no deep scratches.  I did not use any sandpaper at all.  Start with the forks.  They are easy and you can get the hang of it before you tackle the larger items.  Good luck with your project.