Topic: Detailed Instructions For Frame Prep And Paint?

[547]

I want to paint my frame on an extremely tight budget.
There are rust spots scattered over the whole frame.
There is plenty of grease.
It only has the original paint on it.

I have scoured the threads and found a lot of good advice but I kind of need it all in one place if you know what I mean.
Like I said, I am on a budget.

Things I can't afford:
Bead Blasting
Powder Coating
Buying a heat gun

Things I don't have:
A Pot to Piss In
A Window to Throw It Out



Could anyone give me a detailed break down of how to strip, prep and paint and which products are best to use?
Are spray cans best or is there another better way to apply?
Could really use the input. Just can't stand to put my bike back in a messy frame.
thanks
j-

[Bill Vaughan]

Maybe someone else can offer you more hope, but in my experience media blasting the frame clean of old paint and rust is the most efficient method and will yield the best end result.  I've had at least six frame blasted for less than $100 each.  I honestly can imagine doing it any other way.

The topcoat is largely a matter a personal preference - either paint or powdercoat will work fine.  If you intend to use paint from a spray can, a frame epoxy such as Russell Chassis Black or PJ1 Frame Epoxy would be good choices.  Eastwood also sells some very good frame paints.

[BIKE]

Have you thought about buying a blaster of your own?

[Krixxer]

Use a brass wire brush mounted on your favorite grinding tool to remove paint and surface rust.

I'm a painter so I'll tell you the stuff in a spray can is not commercial grade stuff. I'll work but ask yourself if you can afford to do the job twice?

Perhaps you can just bring it to a paint shop and ask then to spar a coat of epoxy primer to protect the metal. Just primer should be real cheep!

[Gordon]

When I did the frame on my 750 several years ago I was on an extremely tight budget, too.  Patience and attention to detail are the two most important things you need, and luckily they're free.  I used a wire brush to remove any rust and naval jelly to finish it off, then sanded the entire frame with a fine-grit paper to improve adhesion of the new paint.  I can't remember the exact brand of rattle can paint I used, but it was something along the lines of what Bill suggested.  Five years and thousands of miles later and it still looks great. 

[cafe2be]

I just stripped my whole frame using the following:
Paint brush (chem resistant)
2 Containers of aircraft stripper
2 steel wool pads
1 scotch brite pad
assorted sand paper
3 hours of my time, a couple beers and some heavy duty gloves (chemical burns)

Came out mint! No sand marks to the frame, nothing. Completely stripped. I send mine out for powder coating. When your done, You must wash the hell out of it to remove all of the paint stripper.

If your not powdercoating. Use self etching primer, and some strong paint.

[MCRider]

When I did the frame on my 750 several years ago I was on an extremely tight budget, too.  Patience and attention to detail are the two most important things you need, and luckily they're free.  I used a wire brush to remove any rust and naval jelly to finish it off, then sanded the entire frame with a fine-grit paper to improve adhesion of the new paint.  I can't remember the exact brand of rattle can paint I used, but it was something along the lines of what Bill suggested.  Five years and thousands of miles later and it still looks great. 

I'm working on my frame now. I'll be powdercoating, but the prep work is very important and costs nothing, mostly. I went around to each weld with a 1/4" chisel and popped off all the birdsh-t on the welds. Then went to each one with a dremel tool and smoothed them. Followed up with sandpaper. Very happy with the look. Only me and others who are intimately familiar with this CB750 frames will recognize the work. But that's the point.

[hymodyne]

I tried to remove all of the paint and primer with the aircraft striper first. I have an old sears sandblaster; it looks like a medium-sized suitcase that you fill with your media (black beauty, etc.) using this and an air compressor, I got rid of all of the left over areas where the paint was extra thick or hard to reach because of welds. with the entire frame media blasted, I then prepped the frame by rubbint it down with acetone. next I shot it with rattle-can "green Death" primer- about three coats worth (must use respirator with this stuff.) next I shot it with rattlecan epoxy paint (refrigerator paint) to the tune of about four coats.

hym

[swan]

I have done several frames on the cheap. A good paint job is all about the preparation. Wash, degrease frame and use and chemical stripper as suggested. Remove final bits of paint with sandpaper, 3M scrubies, steel wool, brash brushes as suggested. Power washing at a car wash is cheap. Patience and beer helps this process.

Even on a budget I always used a good two-part epoxy primer with a gun. Avoid rattle can paint, you get what you pay for. If you do not have a compressor or spray gun buy a small detail HVLP paint gun and borrow or rent a small compressor from friend, neighbor et al and make sure it has filtration. Beer is usually a welcome form of barter. A small paint gun is $25-50 and a great investment. Commercial auto places like NAPA, Auto Zone et al sell pints of primer and single stage paint for reasonable prices and you will much left over for other parts and projects.

You can get great results for less than $75. Pic of my Norton frame done cheaply, but well.

[Caaveman82]

I don't know how much it would cost to ship it, but if you shipped it to me and sent the powder you want I would be more than happy to blast it and powdercoat it for you at no charge what so ever.

[KingCustomCycles.com]

I don't know how much it would cost to ship it, but if you shipped it to me and sent the powder you want I would be more than happy to blast it and powdercoat it for you at no charge what so ever.

Now that is an offer  I use a pressure blaster I got at a yard sale for $40.00, I hang plastic to reclaim the sand in my spare garage stall, and I prime and paint with Rural King tractor and implement enamel, with the hardener additive, through a cheap gun.  My Sears compressor is the only item that cost me $400 about 25 years ago.  I do 4 or 5 a year.  The rest I touch-up clean and paint with Rustoleum gloss black brushed on.  When dry overnight, rub with a paper towel to scuff the surface and acquire the correct OEM Patina. (sp?) (look, gloss, shine, warmth, etc)

[Caaveman82]

I work at a wheel refinishing shop with a kind owner, he says I can use the equipment any time I want. Two blaster cabs, oven, two cnc lathes, all the automotive paint you can wrap your mind around, two powder coating machines, and a tig welder. It helps when you have a hobby like this. To say the least.

[547]

That is a heck of an offer Caaveman and I'd take you up on it if I didn't want the experience of doing it myself.
I will be doing my sons 1969 cb160 immediately after. thanks though. I have a friend who has a body shop and he is doing
some of my tanks right now. think i will ask to use his blaster just don't want to be a bother.
tanks
j-