Author Topic: Dual Disks - Flip the forks - calipers behind forks (Read 9438 times)

ev0lve · « **on:** February 04, 2009, 08:52:09 AM »

Been reading. It's dangerous.

I'm finally getting some time to work on the bike this weekend and complete my dual disk conversion (hopefully) and have seen a few folks reference flipping the forks so that the calipers will be on the rear and all the goodness that comes from having them in that position.

Thinking about it I don't see why this would be any harder and should just work but am leery of any gotchas.

Can anyone who's done this chime in with their experience/wisdom?

Thanks

MCRider · « **Reply #1 on:** February 04, 2009, 08:58:40 AM »

Quote from: Iggy on February 04, 2009, 08:52:09 AM

Been reading. It's dangerous.

I'm finally getting some time to work on the bike this weekend and complete my dual disk conversion (hopefully) and have seen a few folks reference flipping the forks so that the calipers will be on the rear and all the goodness that comes from having them in that position.

Thinking about it I don't see why this would be any harder and should just work but am leery of any gotchas.

Can anyone who's done this chime in with their experience/wisdom?

Thanks

I lke to think I was one of the first. Its no prob really. Just do it. The main thing is the fender. I used a chopped stocker. Drilled out the rivets on the fork brace, then bolted the fender back on with small bolts and nuts.

Mine were the old style swinging hinge type. Never any problem. Puts the brake line on the back side too.

While the factories hung them out front, the racer guys were putting them on back. The theory is to get the swinging weight closer to the pivot of the fork. Other than that, it was just cool. I'm trying to post some pictures.

MCRider · « **Reply #2 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:11:55 AM »

Couldn't get the pictures to stick. You'll have to go to page 13 of my build thread.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=36459.180

ev0lve · « **Reply #3 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:14:53 AM »

Hmmm, no chop required? Just flip the fender? (That fender is flipped and chopped?)

MCRider · « **Reply #4 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:16:54 AM »

Quote from: Iggy on February 04, 2009, 09:14:53 AM

Hmmm, no chop required? Just flip the fender?

yes the chop was optional, I had dented the front of the fender and cut it off. The fender itself is in the origianl position, its the bracket underneath that got flipped around with the fork tubes. The holes still lined up so i just bolted it back together.

ev0lve · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:19:05 AM »

I'm doing it then!

Thank YOU!

MCRider · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:28:12 AM »

YW.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:38:42 AM »

I think I might just have to do this as well with the duals I am doing, thanks MCRider. You made it sound easier than slicing cheese.

MCRider · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:43:43 AM »

Quote from: goon 1492 on February 04, 2009, 09:38:42 AM

I think I might just have to do this as well with the duals I am doing, thanks MCRider. You made it sound easier than slicing cheese.

Your welcome. Back when i did it, it was a good conversation piece.

One other thing which is no real deterrent. The drain plug will be on the uphill side of the bottom of the fork leg. For as infrequently as one changes fork oil, that's no problem. Either find a steep driveway, or take the leg off.

And you'll be doing something with your brakelines. Stockers will work, but look bad. Convert to SS braid and make them custom fit.

MotoRico · « **Reply #9 on:** February 04, 2009, 10:31:38 AM »

What about the clamping piece at the bottom of the fork? On the 550 at least there is a gap that the manual insists needs to be at the back of the assembled product.

cben750f0 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 04, 2009, 10:59:25 AM »

i have a some photo's ofwhen i did it, seems my post in FAQ doesnt work anymore, so will search about and try to post them up...peace

MCRider · « **Reply #11 on:** February 04, 2009, 11:12:09 AM »

Quote from: MotoRico on February 04, 2009, 10:31:38 AM

What about the clamping piece at the bottom of the fork? On the 550 at least there is a gap that the manual insists needs to be at the back of the assembled product.

CB750 same way.

The reason for this is, as standard, the front mating surfaces are parallel and are drawn down first, leaving a gap to act as a clamp. That relationship needs to remain.

It doesn't make any difference, to me at least, where the gap is as long as it's that way, flat to flat, angle to angle. That is, draw the two parallel surfaces together first, then draw down on the gap.

Others may disagree.

crazypj · « **Reply #12 on:** February 04, 2009, 12:09:02 PM »

I did mine in 1978 or 79, forget which.
Never had any problems, except excessive pad wear, but that's down to my riding style

As fork the wheel clamp, just flip them around so gap is at the back (same as you would if it was on backwards) Gap is only at back to prevent water/dirt getting driven in while your riding, fork bottom is 'parallel'
PJ

cben750f0 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 05, 2009, 12:07:06 AM »

here is a pic of my set up...

will try and find the other pics

peace

MCRider · « **Reply #14 on:** February 05, 2009, 06:29:44 AM »

Quote from: crazypj on February 04, 2009, 12:09:02 PM

I did mine in 1978 or 79, forget which.
Never had any problems, except excessive pad wear, but that's down to my riding style
As fork the wheel clamp, just flip them around so gap is at the back (same as you would if it was on backwards) Gap is only at back to prevent water/dirt getting driven in while your riding, fork bottom is 'parallel'
PJ

I'd say you are right and I was off track on the gap. The gap is manufactured into the cap piece not the bottom of the fork leg. So just spin it around.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 05, 2009, 06:45:56 AM »

Mine isn't going to be a simple as your was MCRider, I still have the fork boots and such too deal with, but I figured that it should come out ok just slip the fork tubes out and slide them in the other side and reverse. Then source little nuts and bolts to replace the rivets for the fender mounts...I will have to take pics....

Don R · « **Reply #16 on:** February 05, 2009, 03:36:29 PM »

You guys have read my mind. I got the forks off anyway and have been holding them inverted to see if it will work. How about the bleeders? Do they need to be flipped? I would like to use the f model calipers, the bleeder and feed line are centered.

MCRider · « **Reply #17 on:** February 05, 2009, 03:51:30 PM »

Quote from: Don R on February 05, 2009, 03:36:29 PM

You guys have read my mind. I got the forks off anyway and have been holding them inverted to see if it will work. How about the bleeders? Do they need to be flipped? I would like to use the f model calipers, the bleeder and feed line are centered.

I used the silver K0 calipers, if memory serves the bleeder hole and the hose hole could be swapped as they were the same size, but i don't see any reason. I think later calipers the holes changed sizes and positions.

Bottom line it doesn't matter. Just do what fits. You may have to get creative with you bleeding routine, but that's no problem.

The picture of Phaedrus I (that Iggy so gracioulsy posted) shows I had SS lines made and the there are no banjos at the caliper. The line goes straight into the caliper, clean. If you don't do it that way, and use banjoes, you may need to swap the holes to get them to lay flat and not put a big kink in the line.

Really? · « **Reply #18 on:** February 05, 2009, 04:02:59 PM »

NICE thread!

cben750f0 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 05, 2009, 06:00:43 PM »

the calipers on the '76, '77 like i have you leave them were they are, just loosen the line and turn the caliper so that it it is facin the right direction, you really only habe to swap the fork legs, and make the guard fit, the calipers just bolt back on...

peace

cben750f0 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 05, 2009, 06:27:26 PM »

NOW FROM PHOTOBUCKET!!!>>>LOL

ok so i started here.

swapped the forks, but havent turned the steel lines yet.

now the guard i had spare, had already had the rivets ground out of it, and was rusted to the max, so i cut the brake line holder off cos it was pointin out the front, and test fitted it to the bike, notice it is on top of the top caliper mount, a bit of bending was required.

next pic shows the after market stainless guard i had, after being sold it as a standard SOHC honda guard, it had bolt holes in the top, so i fitted a stay and slide the the guard on, this allowed me to mark the correct spots to drill and tap to remount the guard. i have also turned the brake lines by this stage, and gently bent them round to give a nice line to the lowwer brake lines.

guard stay in the vice ready to be drilled and tapped.

guard fitted, lookin good.

finished shot with the front stay on.... the guard came with holes in the front, and after i took the pic, decided i didnt like the look.

so i cropped it off a bit and now it looks great.

peace

Really? · « **Reply #21 on:** February 05, 2009, 08:22:15 PM »

Love the write-up and the pics.

You should use a another source for your pics like PhotoBucket, it has a good free account. You can link the images to the thread without opening another window with advertisements and porno pop ups. Just a suggestion.

ev0lve · « **Reply #22 on:** February 05, 2009, 08:55:48 PM »

I was thinking that. There are too many threads (mostly on dotheton) where someone's describing something and there's nothing but

and you know it would be helpful but

goon 1492 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 06, 2009, 06:44:03 AM »

Yeah I'm at work and clicked on the first pick and when I closed it a nother window popped up on mt other screen and said amature sex cam......

If I wasn't at work...... Just kidding no freaky freaky for me....

crazypj · « **Reply #24 on:** February 07, 2009, 12:31:42 AM »

Quote from: cben750f1 on February 05, 2009, 06:27:26 PM

peace

OK, I think I edited in the right place?
If you want the fork brace to be more effective, remove the rubber grommets you now have in left side, fit a 6m spring washer into each large hole and use larger washer to clamp it rigid to fork leg (one washer either side of spring washer, your not doing it on a production line so have time to line things up correctly).
Its almost as effective as a tubular brace but far less obtrusive, no one knows its there unless you tell them
PJ

News:

Author Topic: Dual Disks - Flip the forks - calipers behind forks (Read 9438 times)