Author Topic: Yet another polishing question (Read 2855 times)

Skunkmiester · « **on:** February 10, 2009, 01:06:51 AM »

Hi guys,
I recently bought a polishing kit (nice powerfull buffer, 3 different mops and 2 types of compound). Parts are coming up very nice but not quite as good as some of the work I see on these pages. Heres what I did.

Remove any scratches with 480 > 800 > 1200 Wet and dry
Then use Tripmax (Brown) Polishing Compound (For First Cut And Flattening). On a mop made of denim etc.
After that use Bar Bluemax (Blue) Polishing Compound (For Final Finishing) with a Sisal mop.

Bars shown below

These came up quite nice, almost mirror. But not stunning.

So I tried the loose cotton mop and did not get much of an improvement.

So I have just ordered a bar of Phoenix Starmax (Rouge) Polishing Compound For Gold And Silver

Will this be the one? have heard you guys talking about Rouge, so i thought that I should get some.

Also I am looking for the right wax to seal the parts after polishing is normal car wax the best?

Thank you in advance.

cafe750 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2009, 05:40:32 AM »

When I polish, I use a very similar process to yours, but, for a mirror shine, the last step is a hand polish. I like to use simichrome, with lots of elbow grease to get that mirror finish...

Johnie · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2009, 05:51:02 AM »

That blue does not do much. I go red (or brown) depending on how good the eyes are, then green and then white. That is all I used on my side covers you see here.

Alan F. · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2009, 05:57:06 AM »

I've got some bars of compound I picked up at sears, they're only like $2 USD and you can't beat local availability

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00964147000P white rouge

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00964150000P green rouge

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00964148000P brown tripoli

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00964149000P red rouge

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2009, 06:49:43 AM »

I typically use the red rouge for most of my polishing. I havent used anything else.

Not to steal the thread, but how do you clean up the buffers to switch to a different compound?

mlinder · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2009, 07:42:50 AM »

Not really supposed to use different compounds on a wheel. I use a hacksaw blade to clean up a wheel when it gets loaded up, though.

crazypj · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2009, 08:02:14 AM »

If its a 'denim' mop its probably too 'hard', particularly if it has radial stitching.
get some soft cotton 'loose' mops, they are only stitched at center.
Its shouldn't be necessary to use a 'lot of elbow grease' if the polishing is done right, maybe to remove some smears but no actual 'work'

PJ

Really? · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2009, 09:13:27 AM »

I have a link at home that explains the compunds and the wheels to use. Quite good actually. I will link it when I get home tonight. Sisel and denim may be too hard/abrasive. You would use sisel with black rouge (emory rouge) for cutting. Change to another one, can't remember the name of the wheel right now, for red and white (to polish). Mind you, you should have one wheel only used for red and one wheel ony used for white (same for black). Dont mix unless you have a rake to clean the piss out of that wheel (and watch it get smaller).

bunghole · « **Reply #8 on:** February 10, 2009, 09:21:08 AM »

You can buy a block of solid carnauba wax to finish the pieces off. The wax is very hard once it cools, but I don't know how it would hold up to engine heat:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=750

I've used it for knife handles and other wood finishes, but never for aluminum.

Johnie · « **Reply #9 on:** February 10, 2009, 01:49:48 PM »

I use a pudy knife to clean the wheel while it is spinning. To be sure I use the same rouge on the correct wheel, I take a magic marker and write the color rouge on the side of the buffing wheel. I use 6 inch cotton wheels and rouge from Sears.

Really? · « **Reply #10 on:** February 10, 2009, 05:21:00 PM »

As promised...

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

Alan F. · « **Reply #11 on:** February 10, 2009, 06:40:27 PM »

I got a nice tupperware bowl at a dollar-store for each wheel to rest in until it's time to go to work, a good airtight lid keeps the dust and shop dirt from getting where it doesn't belong.

Skunkmiester · « **Reply #12 on:** February 11, 2009, 03:24:58 AM »

Thanks for the link GW, I think I know what I have been doing wrong.

I was not using the correct cutting or colouring motion.

Really? · « **Reply #13 on:** February 11, 2009, 06:29:18 AM »

Don't feel bad, I recently obtained that link from here and still reading that page and learning from it. I started using rouge in the past couple months and still not great at it, been doing sandpaper and mothers before that. Some parts are super easy, some take a goofy amount of time.

Skunkmiester · « **Reply #14 on:** February 11, 2009, 02:35:02 PM »

Well all I can say is thank you guys, especially Giga-Whiskey for the link to the site, the pics may not show it fully but after just 10 minutes I have seen a massive difference, and that is without the White compound that I have on order.

Before.

After using the correct buffing motion as detalied in the link, using the same compounds.

Both side were the same quality before. This is from base without even wet and drying them smooth.

The mistake I was making was just holding the piece against the wheel, not using the cutting and colouring motion as detailed in the link.
I will post pics of this piece once I have wet and dryed it properly and then repeated the process.
Buffer gets damn hot though.

Thanks again.

Really? · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2009, 02:47:16 PM »

I'll bet if you take some of those ridges out with sandpaper and then go at it again with the rouge, the shine and clairity of the shine will improve a bunch.

If the surface has ridges, the reflection of light with be all over the place and make it dull. I think that link also goes into that as well.

Looks like you have the buffing technique down, with the help of that old english. Now if that surface was smooth and then you used that just learned buffiing skill, you will surprise yourself. The casting marks on these bikes are all over the place and plenty.

It took a while but I got the casting marks out of this triple. Then polished it. You can see my kitchen. The pic is not great, it is from my cell phone with no flash. PS. Those Uggs are NOT MINE, lol.

Hinz · « **Reply #16 on:** April 28, 2009, 12:55:14 PM »

Quote from: GigaWhiskey on February 11, 2009, 02:47:16 PM

...The casting marks on these bikes are all over the place and plenty.

Ugh...amen brother. $:-\$

Sporkfly · « **Reply #17 on:** April 28, 2009, 01:18:09 PM »

Quote from: Skunkmiester on February 11, 2009, 02:35:02 PM

[/img]

Mmmmmmmmm

Olde English

Looks better, but I would (as already stated) sand those casting marks out. You'll get a much nicer shine.

crazypj · « **Reply #18 on:** April 29, 2009, 11:47:43 AM »

Personally, I would never polish oil filter housing.
Polishing helps it retain heat longer
PJ

mlinder · « **Reply #19 on:** April 29, 2009, 11:53:37 AM »

Quote from: crazypj on April 29, 2009, 11:47:43 AM

Personally, I would never polish oil filter housing.
Polishing helps it retain heat longer
PJ

Correct. Polish or chrome on anything designed to remove heat is bad. Chrome and polished harley engines always make me chuckle.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #20 on:** April 29, 2009, 12:11:44 PM »

Chrome adds a layer and smooths out the rough surface. This minimizes the surface area for heat transfer. Polishing just smooths it out. It shouldnt make that much of a difference. There's less turbulence at the surface of the metal, which means less mixing, but the boundary layer is smaller allowing more air to pass closer to the metal. Give and take on that end. Just my random thought.

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Author Topic: Yet another polishing question (Read 2855 times)