Author Topic: CB750F2 cam  (Read 1513 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline cafe750

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 583
  • If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's electrical
CB750F2 cam
« on: February 11, 2009, 08:57:01 PM »
So, I've been looking to run a hotter cam in my 75 750F, with 12k on the motor. I'm planning on keeping with the stock bore, and for now, a minimum of head work.
I do know that to maximize any cam, I should massage the head, but I'm saving the pennies to build a hot big bore motor.

I've got a F2 cam that I was toying with dropping in. My question is should I install it "straight up" or should I advance/ retard the cam for best performance.
I'm looking for a bit of top end boost, and a slightly fatter midrange.
I'm completely open to suggestions for other grinds, I just happen to have the F2 cam.

I swear I searched the subject... :)
Thanks Guys for any help!
« Last Edit: February 11, 2009, 08:58:44 PM by cafe750 »
"It's an old motorcycle, the wind is supposed to blow your head around, it's supposed to leak oil, the brakes should suck, and every now and then, it should scare you so bad you piss your pants."



Roy, Washington

fuzzybutt

  • Guest
Re: CB750F2 cam
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2009, 11:43:37 PM »
if you install it, before you start the motor up. put some silly putty on the piston crown, after a spraying of non stick cooking spray on top of the piston and in the combustion chamber on the valves, torque the head down to spec and turn the motor over by hand a few revolutions. then measure the putty at it's thinnest point that will show you your piston/valve clearance. a minimum clearance of .050" should be observed (i think thats a good clearance someone tell me if i'm wrong)

Offline cafe750

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 583
  • If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's electrical
Re: CB750F2 cam
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2009, 04:53:10 AM »
if you install it, before you start the motor up. put some silly putty on the piston crown, after a spraying of non stick cooking spray on top of the piston and in the combustion chamber on the valves, torque the head down to spec and turn the motor over by hand a few revolutions. then measure the putty at it's thinnest point that will show you your piston/valve clearance. a minimum clearance of .050" should be observed (i think thats a good clearance someone tell me if i'm wrong)

Thanks Fuzzy! That was one of the things I was going to check, especially if I don't wind up installing the cam straight up...I'm also wondering about coil bind on the stock valve springs...
"It's an old motorcycle, the wind is supposed to blow your head around, it's supposed to leak oil, the brakes should suck, and every now and then, it should scare you so bad you piss your pants."



Roy, Washington

Offline NitroHunter

  • Radical Street / Strip Turbo
  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 718
  • A man's motorcycle is a reflection of the man
Re: CB750F2 cam
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2009, 05:00:28 PM »
I looked at an old RC cam installation guide for this info.

(1) Do not shim stock springs more than .045"
(2) Coil bind - check between rocker and cam, .050"
(3) Intake valve to piston clearance .050"
(4) Exhaust valve to piston clearance .080"
(5) 1 degree cam advance = .020" more exhaust valve to piston clearance.

Now the F-2 cam question.
 My old notes show this to be .318" intake, .302" exhaust lift. I assume I took these figures at the valve @ .040" lift, zero lash, but for some reason didn't write THAT part down, so these numbers are for refrence only.
The F-2 Honda Service Manual shows @ .040" lift, the opening and closing numbers (I= 5-40, E= 40-5) make this to be 225 degrees duration, both intake and exhaust, lobe centers 107.5, overlap of 10 degrees.
Compared to the K8 cam figures of 220 duration, LC 110, overlap O, the F-2 should flow a little better mid to top end.

Now, a look thru an old Megacycle book has them listing stock K/F as Int - .315" 220 dur, Exh - .313" 235 dur.
Hmmm...
With this in mind, it seems a good idea to 'practice degree' your existing cam and look at the actual numbers. You may find there's not a lot of benefit to the swap.
Unless you pick up more valve overlap, you won't get the additional higher RPM cylinder charge filling. Generally a cam with 104 lobe centers has more overlap than one with 110.

As far as lift goes, unless you have some radical mods done to the intake ports, the flow increases really slow after about .350". That's not to say some porting shops can't make it happen, but the cfm flow difference between .350" and .400" valve lift isn't as much as you'd think.

For what it's worth, my experience is that with no other changes, an F-2 with it's cam degreed @ 102 LC (intake) would really pull at low revs, but had no 8000 rpm power. This was great for the 260 pound guy that was riding it to work every day, I imagine that closing the valves early gave it more cylinder pressure which accounted for the additional low end torque. He loved it, but that motor never saw redline.
When degreed @ 107 my stock F-2 would run 101mph in the 1/4 mile, and over 110mph WOT.

If you degree your cam and don't get the numbers you want, just CAREFULLY slot the sprocket a little. It won't slip after torquing.

And
If anyone's interested, I can send you the scanned-in degreeing instructions.
When I looked in the TECH forums, I didn't find anything like these.



Robbie the NitroHunter                      Fuel Coupe Hired Gun                  NHRA T/F 640

DRAGBIKE USA XH/MB Recordholder: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=127179.0;attach=332735
DRAGBIKE USA XH/SS Recordholder: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=63940.0;attach=103300
Young mans glory days in the lanes: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45685.0;attach=66341