Author Topic: Has anyone used Posi-Locks for electrical connections? (Read 3724 times)

therager · « **on:** February 11, 2009, 04:03:51 PM »

Ive been looking at different options for splicing wires together and the Posi-Locks look good:

http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html

I looked around but couldnt find reviews here, does anyone know how well these hold up in our SOHCs? Ive also been flirting with the idea of using their flat fuseholder to switch to a blade fuse system:

http://www.posi-lock.com/newproducts.html

KRONUS0100 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 11, 2009, 05:11:04 PM »

Use them all the time on the big rigs. It is rather hard to find the smaller ones locally around here. The standard size are big and bulky on a bike.

Alan F. · « **Reply #2 on:** February 11, 2009, 05:43:16 PM »

Those look pretty nice to work with, and a pack of 45 for $30 USD isn't bad, I wonder if my local electronics shop carries them?

Don R · « **Reply #3 on:** February 11, 2009, 06:31:33 PM »

I used them on our junior dragsters, there aren't many things that shake more than a 30hp Briggs. Never had one come off. Best for something you take apart often.

BobbyR · « **Reply #4 on:** February 11, 2009, 08:11:22 PM »

How about solder and shrink tubing. Less bulky and a low loss connection if done properly.

Mach-5(50) · « **Reply #5 on:** February 11, 2009, 10:42:51 PM »

napa has them.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #6 on:** February 11, 2009, 11:45:28 PM »

Quote from: BobbyR on February 11, 2009, 08:11:22 PM

How about solder and shrink tubing. Less bulky and a low loss connection if done properly.

+1000

Deltarider · « **Reply #7 on:** February 11, 2009, 11:53:17 PM »

Quote

How about solder...

How about solder and vibrations?

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #8 on:** February 12, 2009, 04:56:38 AM »

Aircraft use solder and shrink tubing. Failure in that arena means grandma won't be home for Christmas. I ONLY use this method. Look into how to join the wires before applying the solder sometime. It is a real education.

therager · « **Reply #9 on:** February 12, 2009, 05:00:33 AM »

Quote from: BobbyR on February 11, 2009, 08:11:22 PM

How about solder and shrink tubing. Less bulky and a low loss connection if done properly.

I can get down with a soldering iron if its the best way to go, whats the proper way to solder the two wires together? Do you have a photo I can use as reference? Also, what about the vibration, is that an issue I have to worry about?

BIKE · « **Reply #10 on:** February 12, 2009, 05:04:57 AM »

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7

Good one here.

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #11 on:** February 12, 2009, 05:14:09 AM »

Quote from: BIKE on February 12, 2009, 05:04:57 AM

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7

Good one here.

Good source, the only thing I disagree with is the lighter. It damages the insulation as shown in the last picture. I use a heat gun. Vibration is not an issue. Airplanes vibrate more than any Honda. (but not Harley)

charlevoix418 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 12, 2009, 06:07:46 AM »

Aircraft use solder and shrink tubing. Failure in that arena means grandma won't be home for Christmas.

I really like that phrase! Does it come from a movie?

I was involved in aircraft components R&O...

Raynald

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #13 on:** February 12, 2009, 06:57:10 AM »

Quote from: KingCustomCycles.com on February 12, 2009, 05:14:09 AM

Quote from: BIKE on February 12, 2009, 05:04:57 AM
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7

Good one here.

Good source, the only thing I disagree with is the lighter. It damages the insulation as shown in the last picture. I use a heat gun. Vibration is not an issue. Airplanes vibrate more than any Honda. (but not Harley)

The goo at the end of the shrink tubing isn't the wire insulation bubbling up, it is the adhesive that is in the GOOD (read "pricey") heat shrink tubing. Sure a heat gun is a little less prone to cooking your wires if used properly, but careful use of a lighter is fine as well. A heavy hand with either method can go wrong, so practice, practice, practice.
This winter I have removed damn near every bullet connector on my K8, a few of the multi-pins, repaired all the P.O.'s hacks, and basically removed half of my stock harness. It has made a huge difference in the electrical efficiency of the bike and helped the anemic stock charging system deal with my 3 ohm Dynas etc.
Here is a good rule of thumb....
If you don't disconnect something at least once a year, solder it.
If it gets disconnected more often replace the bullets with good quality weatherproof quick disconnects, and slather the connections with silicone dielectric grease to keep out the moisture.

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #14 on:** February 12, 2009, 07:17:26 AM »

Quote from: charlevoix418 on February 12, 2009, 06:07:46 AM

Aircraft use solder and shrink tubing. Failure in that arena means grandma won't be home for Christmas.

I really like that phrase! Does it come from a movie?

I was involved in aircraft components R&O...

Raynald

No movie, just an observation after 26 years as an A&P with IA. Have a great day!

therager · « **Reply #15 on:** February 12, 2009, 03:07:23 PM »

Quote from: BIKE on February 12, 2009, 05:04:57 AM

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7

Good one here.

Thanks for the very helpful replies guys, this looks very solid, Im gonna start soldering! Hope to have my bike back on the road soon!

bradweingartner · « **Reply #16 on:** February 12, 2009, 04:36:55 PM »

Solder for the win. No doubt.

However, those posi-locks are GREAT for field repairs. You don't need a crimper and wires are easy enough to strip with a knife. Keep some extra wire and a handful of those in your tool bag Just in Case.

eldar · « **Reply #17 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:22:23 PM »

Maybe keep a couple on the bike just in case.

When you do solder, tin both ends first. Then use a couple clips to hold the wires so they do not move. Heat up the bottom so the solder flows from the top. This makes sure the solder flows through ALL the wire at the joint. Finally, once you add the solder (just a little, dont need a lot) remove the heat and make sure you do NOT move the joint till all the solder is cool. If you do, you get what was called a "cold" joint and it is not as efficient.

This might not be such a big deal on bikes but on r/c cars, it could make a difference and IS detectable with a good meter.

Besides that, a good joint will be stronger and last longer than a cold joint.

mark · « **Reply #18 on:** February 13, 2009, 02:10:46 AM »

Quote from: KingCustomCycles.com on February 12, 2009, 04:56:38 AM

Aircraft use solder and shrink tubing. Failure in that arena means grandma won't be home for Christmas. I ONLY use this method. Look into how to join the wires before applying the solder sometime. It is a real education.

google image search the "Western Union Splice" and find that NASA uses solder and shrink tubing.

slide a bit of shrink tube on.. make a solid mechanical connection.. heat joint and apply solder.. allow to cool without moving.. apply shrink tube. with a lighter.

Trevor from Warragul · « **Reply #19 on:** February 13, 2009, 04:22:31 AM »

What about these?

http://www.extremelimitsoffroad.com.au/prod898.htm

Markcb750 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 13, 2009, 04:36:30 AM »

Quote from: morini on February 13, 2009, 04:22:31 AM

What about these?

http://www.extremelimitsoffroad.com.au/prod898.htm

We used these to repair wires in F4's. They work really well. We could repair up to 10% of the wires in a bundle before the whole harness had to be replaced.

Expensive as hell.

I carefully went over my '76s wiring looking for scuffs, sharp bends and loose plugs, I put shrink tubing over any suspect spots. Where wires enter the headlight and the front sprocket area the only place I did any preventative maintenance. I then wrapped the bundle.

The old "ounce of prevention" thing.

moham · « **Reply #21 on:** February 13, 2009, 05:30:58 AM »

Quote from: Markcb750 on February 13, 2009, 04:36:30 AM

We used these to repair wires in F4's.

As in F-4 Phantom? Or another F4?

Markcb750 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 13, 2009, 01:31:04 PM »

Quote from: moham on February 13, 2009, 05:30:58 AM

Quote from: Markcb750 on February 13, 2009, 04:36:30 AM

We used these to repair wires in F4's.

As in F-4 Phantom? Or another F4?

Yes ,F-4 Phantom worked on C and D models

moham · « **Reply #23 on:** February 13, 2009, 01:41:44 PM »

Excellent, always loved those airplanes. My pop was with A-10s forever so we did the Davis Monthan-RAF Bentwaters/Woodbridge circuit a couple times. Got to see TR-1s taking off and climbing like crazy at Alconbury for awhile... Cool stuff.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 13, 2009, 01:55:26 PM »

Quote from: moham on February 13, 2009, 01:41:44 PM

Excellent, always loved those airplanes. My pop was with A-10s forever so we did the Davis Monthan-RAF Bentwaters/Woodbridge circuit a couple times. Got to see TR-1s taking off and climbing like crazy at Alconbury for awhile... Cool stuff.

I got to see the prototype A 10 roll out of the factory at Republic Aircraft on Long island in 1971!

Great Aircraft the A10. It's Gatling gun was unbelievable to see, a Soviet T55 was literally made hot enough to burn iron, toasting the tank crew.

; f'kn awful thinking about it.

I assume TR-1 is a variant of the A10?

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Author Topic: Has anyone used Posi-Locks for electrical connections? (Read 3724 times)

fuzzybutt

KingCustomCycles.com

KingCustomCycles.com

charlevoix418

KingCustomCycles.com

eldar

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750