Author Topic: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1  (Read 19210 times)

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Offline Industrial Cafe

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DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« on: February 13, 2009, 03:41:55 PM »
I cannot get the needle bearings out of my 80 dohc swingarm.
The plan is to cut about 0.5in out of the one side and reinstall them deeper in the swingarm, so I can put it on my k1.

help!
« Last Edit: March 31, 2009, 04:43:10 AM by Industrial Cafe »
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


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Offline mattcb350f

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2009, 04:02:39 PM »
I think if anything, you have to cut the same amount of each side. Otherwise, you through off yer alignment...which you'll find out rather quickly after it's back together.

Does it need to be narrower to fit in the frame?

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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2009, 05:20:18 PM »
yeah, one side is longer than the other.
 gots ta be narrowed- it doesn't fit by about a half inch.
take a gander at this here link>
:)
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=34880.0
just scroll down to the pics
« Last Edit: February 13, 2009, 05:22:28 PM by Industrial Cafe »
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2009, 07:49:33 AM »
moved!?
 Its' a single cam cb750 with an attempted dohc swing arm!!
its not "other bike" subject matter.
did you not you see the part about the K1?
oh well, maybe someone in the "other bikes" section can help. maybe someone with extensive experience in Yamaha RD350s.
I guess I should be thanking this "SteveD" character.

thank you Steve, thank you for moving my post.
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline 754

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2009, 08:38:06 AM »
I agree this should be a comon mod for the 750. I think more/all does come off the one side though.

After reading all on this earlier posted, i am thinking that Bronze bushings are far easier to live with and get made.

I dont think that the needles come out easily and could be reused, plus they are pricey. and must run on a hardened spacer.

If I had one in hand I could probably tell you a home method for removal.. will try to get over to 1080s to look at a 800 one he has.
754
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Offline bryanj

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2009, 10:31:31 AM »
From Memory its a special puller that slides through then a pilot expands the far end that has a lip and you use a slide hammer to extract the bearing----This ALWAYS wrecks the bearing as the inner end is rounded whilst the outer is flat.
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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2009, 11:05:11 AM »
I figured I would need a slide puller.
I'm not worried about effin' up the bearing... there's some bearings on ebay for $19.99.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250365129276&fromMakeTrack=true

I also noticed the inner race(tube the bolt goes into) has a little over a half inch of space to move the bearing (on the cut side) in.

But I'm not yet sure if I can press the bearing a half inch further into the pivot tube without machining it inside...
methinks the end cap should fit fine after the cut.
 :-\
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


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Offline 754

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #7 on: February 14, 2009, 07:45:21 PM »
Cut a disc, just under the size of the bearing out of 1/8 or thicker metal.

slit down the centre, then nick the corners off...install in back of bearing.. wiggle in place.

Insert rod near bearing ID size.. and wail away... ;D
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Offline MRieck

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2009, 07:04:46 AM »
From Memory its a special puller that slides through then a pilot expands the far end that has a lip and you use a slide hammer to extract the bearing----This ALWAYS wrecks the bearing as the inner end is rounded whilst the outer is flat.
Exactly. I just removed the needle bearings in a JMC swingarm with the blind puller attachement on  the slide hammer. Keep in mind the bearing housings have a "thick" end (the code is posted on it)....that's the side you push against when installing them
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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #9 on: February 15, 2009, 03:57:15 PM »
uh... i Got it out  ;D

I felt like such a dumb hillbilly pounding away with a hammer 'n' chisel.

oops...

all better  :-\



 well after all that, it looks like I did ok.
   Although I had to grind off the chisel burrs on the swingarm, it's only .001 out of round.
now I just need to press the new bearing in, when it gets here.
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2009, 03:59:38 PM »
MRieck's idea would have been great, if I read it yesterday  ;D ;D ;D
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline 754

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2009, 09:01:01 PM »
Shoulda tried Mikes method or mine.. & saved scarring up the swingarm...
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
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My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

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Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2009, 09:35:30 PM »
Oh yeah, don't I know it.

everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2009, 03:58:21 PM »
I had to drill out the holes at the pivot point on the frame to 41/64 inch to accommodate the 16mm bolt.  I pressed in the new bearings and did a mockup.

  I gotta turn down some axle shims, cause using the late model shims doesn't work. it makes the tire a half inch off center.
maybe a late model cush drive takes up the 3/8 inch needed on the chain side... I dunno, I don't have one yet.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2009, 04:05:49 PM by Industrial Cafe »
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2009, 04:12:15 PM »
I must admit I didn't expect the shocks to be so far back, but I'll fix that with an additional shock mount welded in later.
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2009, 08:18:04 AM »
I should have cut a 1/4 inch off each end of the inner race.
but it works.
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #16 on: March 30, 2009, 09:43:18 PM »
K8 carrier because I got a k8 motor. wouldn't have needed it if I had the original K1 motor.
had to put an extra 1/4 inch spacer on the other side with the oem DOHC brake side spacer.


with the K1 motor and sprocket carrier-
« Last Edit: March 31, 2009, 04:54:00 AM by Industrial Cafe »
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2009, 09:58:35 PM »
now that it's all done I like the way it turned out.

everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Magpie

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2009, 10:11:34 PM »
Looks great, good work!!!!!!!!!!!
Cliff.

Offline GoatBaSS

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #19 on: August 20, 2009, 05:40:06 AM »
Looks great now I have to re read it all to understand! ::)
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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #20 on: August 20, 2009, 07:39:46 AM »
reading it all might screw you up ;D
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


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Offline GoatBaSS

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #21 on: August 20, 2009, 08:04:10 AM »
Nothing a hammer and a impact driver cant fix. 8)
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Offline bill440cars

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #22 on: August 20, 2009, 08:08:38 AM »



        Nice job on that Swing Arm Conversion AND on the bike as well. ;)  Something for others to keep in mind, that they might want to do.
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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #23 on: August 20, 2009, 08:19:03 AM »
thanks,  hopefully, someone can get the general idea from this thread. ;D
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


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Offline bill440cars

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #24 on: August 20, 2009, 09:27:07 AM »
thanks,  hopefully, someone can get the general idea from this thread. ;D

   I hear ya, it just might get to be a "Common Conversion" that folks just get in on and DO! 8) THAT would  be something. ;)
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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #25 on: August 20, 2009, 12:58:14 PM »
I really like it, it handles really well and it launches better than the short swingarm.
I think it has something to do with weight distribution, I sit -pretty much- right over the shocks. and my front end used to come up enough to get light under hard acceleration.

not anymore. :)
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


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Offline MCRider

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #26 on: August 20, 2009, 01:17:51 PM »
thanks,  hopefully, someone can get the general idea from this thread. ;D

   I hear ya, it just might get to be a "Common Conversion" that folks just get in on and DO! 8) THAT would  be something. ;)

What's the advantage of this arm over stock? It is tubular and longer, anything else?

Edit: I just read the last post from IC. Things attributed to length. I see.
« Last Edit: August 20, 2009, 01:19:22 PM by MCRider »
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Offline brycegp

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Re: gettin the needle bearings out
« Reply #27 on: September 30, 2009, 07:47:15 PM »
I should have cut a 1/4 inch off each end of the inner race.
but it works.

I am doing the same thing on my K2 now.   And I have some additional questions on this swap, if you don't mind me asking.

1.  What do you mean by "1/4" off each end of the inner race"....?  Is this the metal tube that goes in the pivot tube??
2.  Once you trimmed the length off the swingarm pivot point and removed the old bearings, did the new bearings just pushed right back in??  Or would you now recommend going with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings?
3.  Did you use the late model sprocket or the K1 sprocket?
4.  What length chain did you go with after the swap?  Does the longer DOHC chain now work?

Here are the parts I am using.
1. '80 swingarm and pivot bolt. (all length trimmed .5" and pivot mount hole on the frame bored to fit 16mm pivot bolt)
2. K2 hub
3. K2 brake drum
4. K2 Sprocket
5. '80 axel, cush drive and spacers.

Thanks for reading...
1971 CB750K/F - El Toro
El Toro Build Thread - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=73552.0

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #28 on: September 30, 2009, 08:00:45 PM »
I should have cut a 1/4 inch off each end of the inner race.
but it works.

I am doing the same thing on my K2 now.   And I have some additional questions on this swap, if you don't mind me asking.

1.  What do you mean by "1/4" off each end of the inner race"....?  Is this the metal tube that goes in the pivot tube??
yes, the one thats shiny on both ends and machined in the middle
Quote
2.  Once you trimmed the length off the swingarm pivot point and removed the old bearings, did the new bearings just pushed right back in??
yeah, the inside of the swingarm is machined in quite a ways
Quote
 Or would you now recommend going with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings?
I went with needle bearings cause they were readily available and they were a direct replacement (so it was just like stock)
Quote
3.  Did you use the late model sprocket or the K1 sprocket?
I used my original K1 sprocket. the chain is easier to find in different lengths and colors
Quote
4.  What length chain did you go with after the swap?
120 link, and cut out 6 links
Quote
Does the longer DOHC chain now work?
the DOHC chain is a 630. you'd have to change your drive sprocket as well as leave off your front sprocket cover for clearance
Quote
Here are the parts I am using.
1. '80 swingarm and pivot bolt. (all length trimmed .5" and pivot mount hole on the frame bored to fit 16mm pivot bolt)
2. K2 hub
3. K2 brake drum
4. K2 Sprocket
5. '80 axel, cush drive and spacers.

Thanks for reading...


be real REAL picky on your spacer lengths, you gotta line that chain up PERFECT. you might need to do some mods to the spacers.
you shouldn't have to stretch the swingarm apart or squeeze it together either.
do not hesitate to ask more questions.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2009, 08:04:38 PM by Industrial Cafe »
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline brycegp

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #29 on: October 13, 2009, 10:13:32 AM »
thanks for all the help...I've got the arm mounted up and the sprocket seems to be lining up perfect.  but I don't have a chain yet so I'll have to wait to see for sure.

As far as the spacers go...I used the sprocket side spacer from the early model on the brake side.  And I used the sprocket side spacer from the late model on the sprocket side.  That made it mount up at the right over all width between the axel mounts.

Question:  Did you have to modify the brake lever rigging?  Now its seems to be hitting the new swing arm in a couple spots.  Maybe in reinstalled the rigging wrong...

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El Toro Build Thread - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=73552.0

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #30 on: October 13, 2009, 10:53:59 AM »
Question:  Did you have to modify the brake lever rigging?  Now its seems to be hitting the new swing arm in a couple spots.  Maybe in reinstalled the rigging wrong...

yeah, it's supposed to hit I think... it did on my original swing arm, stops the pedal from just hanging there and bouncing around.

 I repositioned the foot pedal on the splines cause the pivot tube on the swingarm is larger and pushed the lever down about 1 spline tooth.
« Last Edit: October 13, 2009, 10:56:15 AM by Industrial Cafe »
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


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Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #31 on: October 13, 2009, 10:55:16 AM »
thanks for all the help...I've got the arm mounted up and the sprocket seems to be lining up perfect.  but I don't have a chain yet so I'll have to wait to see for sure.

you'll know when you go to ride it around and it starts leaving grease marks on one side of the rear sprocket ;D
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline brycegp

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #32 on: October 15, 2009, 08:12:59 AM »
Now I am noticing that the wheel is offset about .5" to the brake side of the bike.  But the sprocket lines up!  And the wheel is lining up in the center of the swingarm.

I think its because I used the late model cush drive (which is about .25" wider).  But now I am thinking there is no reason I couldn't just use the original cush drive.  Then the wheel will be back to original.

like you said...just find the right spacers to position the original wheel correctly within the new swingarm.  (I thought I'd already done that.) Can you tell me how many inches of spacers you've used on each side?

thanks, man!
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El Toro Build Thread - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=73552.0

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #33 on: October 15, 2009, 09:55:05 AM »
heh, mine is offset about .25in or so to the brake side as well, I think it's because I used the inner spacer from the k1 on the k8 carrier. the reason I say this is because the carrier sits inside the hub a bit.

everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline KRONUS0100

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #34 on: August 16, 2010, 08:49:54 AM »
no pictures yet.  using 1981 cb900f swingarm into a 1976 cb750f.......stock 1978 cb750 rear wheel/brake....fits centered in swingarm just like it should.  have trimmed the right side of the pivot 10mm......waiting on new bearings.  having sleeve made for the stock pivot bolt so i dont have to bore the holes in the frame.
MATT
current bikes:  1976 CB750F, 1981 GS1100E
bikes owned:1981 GL1100I, 1990 GS500E, 1981 GS850, 1977 and 1979 GS750, 1974 CB750, 1975 CB750, and a 1982 GS750E

Offline Industrial Cafe

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #35 on: August 16, 2010, 11:30:32 AM »
good idea.
everything I say is pure speculation and
I have no idea what I'm talking about  ._.


                                    Marla              .:71CB750:.CAFE

Offline Free Booter

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Re: DOHC CB750 swingarm in a K1
« Reply #36 on: March 14, 2012, 10:53:55 PM »
1997 HONDA CB250 NIGHTHAWK SWINGARM?//