I should have cut a 1/4 inch off each end of the inner race.
but it works.
I am doing the same thing on my K2 now. And I have some additional questions on this swap, if you don't mind me asking.
1. What do you mean by "1/4" off each end of the inner race"....? Is this the metal tube that goes in the pivot tube??
yes, the one thats shiny on both ends and machined in the middle
2. Once you trimmed the length off the swingarm pivot point and removed the old bearings, did the new bearings just pushed right back in??
yeah, the inside of the swingarm is machined in quite a ways
Or would you now recommend going with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings?
I went with needle bearings cause they were readily available and they were a direct replacement (so it was just like stock)
3. Did you use the late model sprocket or the K1 sprocket?
I used my original K1 sprocket. the chain is easier to find in different lengths and colors
4. What length chain did you go with after the swap?
120 link, and cut out 6 links
Does the longer DOHC chain now work?
the DOHC chain is a 630. you'd have to change your drive sprocket as well as leave off your front sprocket cover for clearance
Here are the parts I am using.
1. '80 swingarm and pivot bolt. (all length trimmed .5" and pivot mount hole on the frame bored to fit 16mm pivot bolt)
2. K2 hub
3. K2 brake drum
4. K2 Sprocket
5. '80 axel, cush drive and spacers.
Thanks for reading...
be real REAL picky on your spacer lengths, you gotta line that chain up PERFECT. you might need to do some mods to the spacers.
you shouldn't have to stretch the swingarm apart or squeeze it together either.
do not hesitate to ask more questions.