There's a lot I don't know about this particular bike, The only info I have on it was the wire diagram I found here:
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/MCwiring.php#class...and that is a copy from Clymer, whose reliability is dubious at best.
My assumption is that there is a permanent magnet in the alternator. And, that you will still use the rectifier and regulator to operate the coil on DC (you'd better, or I won't give the condenser much of a life prognosis).
The clymer doesn't give me an alternator winding arrangement I recognize, And further, they show a winding that is intentionally shorted. It shows no connections to the frame reference for the alternator, so I assume there is none. In person, I would check with a meter.
However, it looks like it will still make power, but you will need two AC connections to the rectifier for it to happen. If I read the identifier colors correctly, that would be the yellow and pink wires from the alt to the rectifier. And, leaving the Yellow/White wire disconnected (and insulated) should allow the system to "work". But, I do not yet fully understand what purpose and function the "N" position on the headlight control serves. Looks like it might increase the alternator output capability, but the diagram isn't clear just when the "N" position is achieved.
I still have the following concerns:
Without the battery to dampen/limit the voltage peaks, the survivability of the rectifier will depend on it's voltage withstand parameters, which are unknown to me.
Likewise, the regulator details and spec are unknown, so it's survivability to high voltage peaks or its ability to respond rapid input voltage changes, without the damping action of the battery impedance, is not predictable.
For longevity, I'd recommend a largish capacitor in place of the battery.
That's all I have without further info.
Cheers,
Cheers,
