man this sounds like a lot more trouble than i was expecting.
1. i only weight 155 so i am not putting much weight on it. and as for pre load adjusters i have no idea what that is haha.
The stock shock has a preload device on the rear springs. With the right wrench, called a pin spanner, you can turn a stepped collar on the each shock to pre-compress the rear springs. It's mostly there to compensate for extra loads like an added passenger. At 155, you probably don't need any added pre-load. I know lots of guys that crank them up to max as routine. Maybe your P.O. did.
2. i will check for the rubber piece. where should it be located?
The bumper is on the left lower muffler. When I had a 4 into exhaust on my 74, I had to make a stop bracket for the center stand. and the bumber was mover on to that. From memory, it's about an inch square. and a half inch think soft rubber.
3. Even if it shifts through all gears fine is still is bad? I saw were you suggested castrol oil two tired, but what type? the clutch didnt do it i dont think until i adjusted it today. Did i adjust it wrong?
It's possible you adjusted it wrong. It's not really bad, it's just irritating. I have a bike that does this. Readjustment helped, new oil helped, but, it still does it when hot. I bought a new clutch for it. But, if I don't make it slip a lot, or do drag style take-offs it's not so bad I a feel the need to actually replace it. Rocking the bike fore and aft while doing the neutrals search almost always allows neutral selection. I can always select neutral easily if a remember to do it before the bike has completely stopped. Also, Honda's HP-4 10-40W without Moly seems to have really minimized the problem, (which does get worse with higher engine heat).
While I have used Castrol in the past (15 years ago), I don't think you got that recommendation from me. I rather like the semi-synthetics, like Honda's HP-4. Not saying Castrol is bad. I just think others are better for this application.
As for adjustment, sometimes it works better after the second try at adjustment. Adjust at the clutch cover first, then adjust the cable.
4. Smoke/Water vaper is like a light grey color it hazes up the garage but its almost so light its not present. What do you mean by if the smoke is actually gases blowing by the rings? i am assuming that is super bad since you say you have my condolenses?
The #21 hose is the engine breather. It's supposed to go to the breather filter that's inside the filter box. Those vapors are sucked into the carbs, normally.
Water forms on the inside walls of the engine each time the outside temp is cooler than the inside temp. It does this at a faster rate when the humidity is high. This water vaporizes when the engine get warm and exits the breather. If the engine gets hot for a long enough period of time, all the water is vaporized and the "smoke" stops.
How long have you run the engine after it was fully warmed up? Cold weather extends the warm up period, delaying full vaporization of the engine water condensate.
If it still smokes well beyond the time when all the water is vaporized, then piston ring blow-by might be a cause. A properly conducted compression test or leak-down test would usually tell you if rings are working as they should.
5. I dont get the co-pay joke haha
You don't have an HMO, or go to the doctor often then, I suppose. I have a $15 co-pay each time I have a doctor office visit, that insurance doesn't pay for.
The two asprin is an old doctor joke.
The copay is a modern addendum to a doctor joke.
Are "explained" jokes ever funny?
Cheers,
