Author Topic: Manual Cam chain adjuster (Read 7994 times)

Markcb750 · « **on:** February 16, 2009, 04:12:17 PM »

A local bike mechanic, who balanced my carbs, recommended a manual cam chain adjusting system to reduce noise.

Should not be necessary but I have gone through several adjusting sequences with little effect on noise level at idle.

Any one have any experience with this modification.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:15:53 PM »

Only thing I know of is you release the tension when you have cyl #1 at TDC when you do a tune-up. Is that what he is talking about?

Markcb750 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:19:29 PM »

No, he said it replaced the spring loaded system with a set screw and lock nut.

"Just tighten it till the noise goes away" was what he said.

MRieck · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:21:11 PM »

You can push against the tensioner rod for more tension if that's what you are looking to achieve.

BobbyR · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:22:36 PM »

Quote from: MRieck on February 16, 2009, 04:21:11 PM

You can push against the tensioner rod for more tension if that's what you are looking to achieve.

How would one do that Mike. I may be headed your way in a couple of weeks.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:31:13 PM »

Quote from: MRieck on February 16, 2009, 04:21:11 PM

You can push against the tensioner rod for more tension if that's what you are looking to achieve.

I have be reluctant to do that. But may try it.

WHALEMAN · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:03:10 PM »

Make sure the shaft can move in and out. I had this problem and pulled the adjuster and the shaft was siezed.Loosen the nut and turn the crank back and forth while holding a small screwdriver in the hole and you should feel it move in and out as you turn back and forth. Dan

Markcb750 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:18:15 PM »

Quote from: WHALEMAN on February 16, 2009, 05:03:10 PM

Make sure the shaft can move in and out. I had this problem and pulled the adjuster and the shaft was siezed.Loosen the nut and turn the crank back and forth while holding a small screwdriver in the hole and you should feel it move in and out as you turn back and forth. Dan

When I took the bike apart I found the tensioner very corroded and seized. I cleaned and polished, put in some grease and made sure it actuated when I released the set screw the first time.

I have adjusted it several times according to the Honda Manual, the first adjustment did reduce cam change noise. I was semi-happy with it until I got accustomed to the engine sounds with proper exhaust. Now I hear the cam chain, and the young mechanic suggested a manual adjuster.

A web search yields some APE manual adjusters, primarily for Kawasaki and Suzuki bikes.

A eBay search yields only the stock spring loaded adjuster.

WHALEMAN · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:27:26 PM »

When you "clean and polish" you remove some or all of the cadium plating and it rusts faster. Spray some PB blaster or WD40 in the hole and make sure it moves. Find or make a small rubber plug to keep water out.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:33:32 PM »

OK.

I need to extract it to check it anyway. The grease I packed the shaft in should have insured it did not corrode in a few weeks. BWKs

Thanks

Jonesy · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:35:17 PM »

Just out of curiousity, which Honda manual did you use?

I ask as later printings of the original CB750 shop manual had updated directions, as did the bike owner's manuals. You set the tension when the #1 cylinder is about 15 degrees or so past TDC on the firing stroke. The easy way to establish this is look for the advance spring anchor pin on the ignition advance to line up with the timing pointer.

WHALEMAN · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:36:00 PM »

OH, Only a few weeks then it could not rust that fast. I thought maybe a few years. Never mind. Dan

UnCrash · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:42:18 PM »

My cam chain is particularly noisy on my 78F. My best results (after disassembling, cleaning, and lubricating the tensioner) was to position #1 as recommended in the shop repair manual, loosen the lock screw, then take an 90degree angled screw driver and gently give an extra push to the plunger, tighten down the lock screw...

MRieck · « **Reply #13 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:48:48 PM »

Quote from: BobbyR on February 16, 2009, 04:22:36 PM

Quote from: MRieck on February 16, 2009, 04:21:11 PM
You can push against the tensioner rod for more tension if that's what you are looking to achieve.
How would one do that Mike. I may be headed your way in a couple of weeks.

Just let me know when sir.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 16, 2009, 05:51:28 PM »

Quote from: Jonesy on February 16, 2009, 05:35:17 PM

Just out of curiousity, which Honda manual did you use?

I ask as later printings of the original CB750 shop manual had updated directions, as did the bike owner's manuals. You set the tension when the #1 cylinder is about 15 degrees or so past TDC on the firing stroke. The easy way to establish this is look for the advance spring anchor pin on the ignition advance to line up with the timing pointer.

I am using a copy of the Manual available on the website, looks like what you posted.

Accolay · « **Reply #15 on:** February 16, 2009, 08:11:35 PM »

Something like this? (Almost at the bottom of the page)
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Honda%20Cafe%20Page.htm

http://www.cyclexchange.net/index%20pics/Cafe%20tech%201.JPG

mystic_1 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 16, 2009, 08:47:24 PM »

Very interesting!

mystic_1

PJ · « **Reply #17 on:** February 16, 2009, 09:06:49 PM »

That looks kinda scary. You could put way too much tension on it with that.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 17, 2009, 04:33:56 AM »

Quote from: Accolay on February 16, 2009, 08:11:35 PM

Something like this? (Almost at the bottom of the page)
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Honda%20Cafe%20Page.htm

http://www.cyclexchange.net/index%20pics/Cafe%20tech%201.JPG

that must be it, looks a little scary to me also.

thanks

bryanj · « **Reply #19 on:** February 17, 2009, 04:45:40 AM »

With 30+ years doing this professionally I look at that and run away screaming "NO WAY, NO HOW!!!!!" and i would not touch an engine with that on it in the USA because of the litgation culture where it is always the other mans fault (I.E. ME if i serviced it!)

bwaller · « **Reply #20 on:** February 17, 2009, 04:47:35 AM »

As was mentioned I'd far rather just add a "little" pressure to the end of the tensioner to help the old tired spring than overtighten with that thing.

There were more problems with the original tensioner than just the spring however.

PJ · « **Reply #21 on:** February 17, 2009, 07:07:42 AM »

I am not saying I think that it wouldn't work because I used something like that (although not that ghetto) on a GPZ750 years ago. I would just want more guidance than "crank it until it's quiet". More like a spec in inch pounds to tighten it to. These motors do have a delicate cam chain though!

BobbyR · « **Reply #22 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:20:48 AM »

Quote from: UnCrash on February 16, 2009, 05:42:18 PM

My cam chain is particularly noisy on my 78F. My best results (after disassembling, cleaning, and lubricating the tensioner) was to position #1 as recommended in the shop repair manual, loosen the lock screw, then take an 90degree angled screw driver and gently give an extra push to the plunger, tighten down the lock screw...

I am a bit slow. Now do I unbolt the whole assembly to put presure on the spring. I can see no way to do it otherwise.

gregk · « **Reply #23 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:30:13 AM »

I have used a manual assisted cam chain tensioner method on my 400F with good results. I think that a 34 year old spring may need a little help, especially if it has been resting in the same position for most of it's life. By pushing against the spring with a small screwdriver, I was able to reduce the cam chain noise. There was nothing scientific about my approach but, I have to believe that a slightly tighter chain is better than a rattly loose chain.
I had read somewhere on this forum that the guys that were racing the 400's in the day used a bolt and a lock nut in place of the adjuster.
i may be asking for trouble with putting some compression on the spring but the alternative was just too noisey.

greg

MRieck · « **Reply #24 on:** February 17, 2009, 09:50:33 AM »

Manual adjusters are available for a lot of bikes. And yes....you can run into problems if it is not adjusted properly

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Author Topic: Manual Cam chain adjuster (Read 7994 times)

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

WHALEMAN

Markcb750

WHALEMAN

Markcb750

WHALEMAN

Markcb750

Markcb750