Author Topic: Anodizing parts (Read 18141 times)

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #25 on:** August 10, 2010, 12:13:20 AM »

Quote from: RAFster122S on August 09, 2010, 07:45:10 PM

Anodizing cases would grow anodized layer on the bearing surfaces, not something you will want unless you are willing to machine those to proper size again.
FWIW

Is there noway of covering or coating those critical area's so it could be done?

Mick

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #26 on:** August 10, 2010, 06:58:05 AM »

I checked with the anodizing forum and it's about a mil thick on average and too small to be measured mechanically.
"Typically an eddy current type thickness meter is used" So as in the MC, it might improve things. But anyway yes you can seal off areas not to anodize. That's how the fancy guys get the multi-color parts.

I forgot to mention earlier that the anodizing forum, just like this one, is a great source of info. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/anodizing101/?v=1&t=directory&ch=web&pub=groups&sec=dir&slk=15

GammaFlat · « **Reply #27 on:** October 02, 2010, 02:28:34 PM »

I just joined the "anodize forum" as you suggested. Thanks for the tip! Can you think of any reason you would not want to anodize a caliper?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #28 on:** October 02, 2010, 02:46:43 PM »

piston bore can't be anodized or you have clearance problems or possibly leakage issues
I believe the external of caliper was originally anodized
same would be true of bleeder hole and the brake line hole.
Anodizing grows the part by a few thousands as it forms the oxide layer that is dyed.

GammaFlat · « **Reply #29 on:** October 02, 2010, 02:55:46 PM »

How does one "block sections out" in the process?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #30 on:** October 02, 2010, 02:58:27 PM »

Didn't you join the anodizing forum? Isn't that a question for them?

GammaFlat · « **Reply #31 on:** October 02, 2010, 03:00:00 PM »

Quote from: RAFster122S on October 02, 2010, 02:58:27 PM

Didn't you join the anodizing forum? Isn't that a question for them?

I did just join but I'm waiting to be "approved". For Yahoo forums it usually takes from hours to a day or two. Yeah yeah, I know, I'm being impatient

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 02, 2010, 03:26:53 PM »

No I can't think of any reason not to anodize the caliper and have thought about doing it myself but don't have any spares. I don't think there are any clearance issues. The piston doesn't really contact the caliper inner body but instead rides against the rubber seal ring so there should not be a problem with anodizing layer growth there. It's really a microscopic amount anyway. When I anodize the MCs, I run a 12mm dongle hone quickly through them and they work great and the clearances are more critical inside the MC than the caliper. I think I will give it a try. You know you don't have to dye the anodized part. You can leave it clear or use a silver dye instead of black for the K0 look.

Roach · « **Reply #33 on:** October 04, 2010, 11:54:14 PM »

too all the people who want to try this at home. just remember you cant ano steel it will melt!! take this from someone who didnt know that one of his paintball guns had a steel thread in it and after i was done it was all but melted away!

other than that have fun and wear gloves

Flying J · « **Reply #34 on:** October 05, 2010, 11:07:13 PM »

What parts can you anodize well on a CB. I was told that the case would come out splotchy due to the aluminum they used. Could you anodize the hubs, brake plates, or like on the 550 the covers at each end of the head?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #35 on:** October 08, 2010, 09:54:20 AM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on October 05, 2010, 11:07:13 PM

What parts can you anodize well on a CB. I was told that the case would come out splotchy due to the aluminum they used. Could you anodize the hubs, brake plates, or like on the 550 the covers at each end of the head?

What are the "brake plates" you are referring to?
Rotors are stainless with steel center.

I would think...
Caliper mounting arm can be anodized, brake & clutch levers,
Front Hub can be but need to be polished to high sheen first for best results.
Not sure if the rear hub can be because it has a steel drum surface pressed in...

David

Flying J · « **Reply #36 on:** October 08, 2010, 10:24:16 AM »

Sorry i meant this part.

TireSniffer · « **Reply #37 on:** October 27, 2010, 09:06:10 AM »

This thread looks very interesting... is there a reason I can't see any pics? Can everyone else see them?

cookindaddy · « **Reply #38 on:** October 27, 2010, 03:34:51 PM »

Very good thread! Thank you.
I'd wondered about anodizing. I knew that I could not afford to have it done professionally but that home methods were available. After reading your experience I will probably not go that route.
My MC and caliper are polished natural aluminum and will probably stay that way until my next rebuild in 30 years (ha!) I lucked out and got good looking original handlebar controls and they are on the bike now.
But it never hurts to be informed.
Thank you!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #39 on:** October 27, 2010, 10:42:52 PM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on October 08, 2010, 10:24:16 AM

Sorry i meant this part.

I think after stripping it down you will have to use a magnet to see if there are steel parts pressed into the backing plate. If it appears to be all aluminum alloy then you might be able to anodize it. The cases for the motor I'm told don't take anodizing well as it is uneven due to the casting and alloy used.
Don't know if the aluminum of the backing plate will take it evenly or not. Only one way to find out and you may want to have a spare or know where to find one. Or be prepared to paint it.
Do you need to polish the part prior to anodizing? If so, you'll need some die grinding or dremel drums to handle the grooved and radius areas?

David

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #40 on:** January 19, 2011, 08:42:23 AM »

Yes you need to polish before anodizing but it doesn't need to be a mirror finish. 400 wet would do. Anodizing will highlight all the imperfections and missed spots though so you need to get into every crevice uniformly. If you miss a spot or don't get it super clean, the anodizing won't work in that area and the dye won't stick and it will look like s**t. Experiment on something easy first.

bradweingartner · « **Reply #41 on:** January 20, 2011, 10:31:22 PM »

Also, keep in mind that on many if not most cast parts, you are pretty limited. Black works very well as you can see, but colors don't usually turn out. The variation in the grain makes it splotchy as mentioned before. Some colors work better than others. And it also depends on process. But in the end you end up with a very durable part!

void909 · « **Reply #42 on:** June 10, 2011, 05:31:03 AM »

so have you tried like fork lowers or maybe the top triple clamp for the cb750s? Would the black turn out? Also is it the same process because it seemed like the guy in the link said it was much harder to anodize cast parts. What other colors besides black have you found to work well?
thanks

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #43 on:** May 18, 2012, 02:40:30 PM »

Caswell makes nice anodizing dyes, ( http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/anodizing-products.html ) . Black is actually the hardest to do. Red, turquoise, violet, gold... all turn out great. I'm anodizing my fork air caps today in violet and will post when finished.

Really? · « **Reply #44 on:** May 18, 2012, 03:48:48 PM »

If I polish my hubs, you want to anodize them for me?

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #45 on:** May 22, 2012, 02:33:43 PM »

My tank isn't big enough for the rear hub but the front hub would fit. What color?

Really? · « **Reply #46 on:** May 22, 2012, 05:15:03 PM »

It would be black. The same as what Buchanan's does to their rims. I still need to get those and spokes. Plus their anodizing all together is $$$$$.

CycleRanger · « **Reply #47 on:** June 05, 2012, 05:08:14 PM »

The science.
Anodizing (Or the beauty of corrosion)

News:

Author Topic: Anodizing parts (Read 18141 times)