Author Topic: what paint did you put on your frame? (Read 6690 times)

547 · « **on:** February 17, 2009, 04:43:47 PM »

what paint should i use for the top coat on my frame?
repainting black over primer.

mutt · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2009, 04:54:30 PM »

Ive rattlecanned a few frames. Laquer is real shiney & dries quick. You can get it at car parts stores. But it scratches easy.
PJ1 is good can paint if you can find it. But it dulls, and isnt ALL that better than laquer.
I did my main bike 100k ago & it looks it.
Now, you can get setups at the parts store & automotive paint stores that are pressure cans, not very big, that thread into glass jars. You can then spray auntomotive finish, but its pricey, like $30/qt. Maybe you can get half a qt- 4x more than you need-from a automotive paint shop.
Ive painted whole bikes that way- you can add "wet look" hardener, etc. Insanely poisonous, wear a respirator.
Whatever you use, let it dry real well, & topcoat it with clear. The two part is crazy expensive, the one part rattlecan not proof to gas. But you can always touch it up- if you can see t you can paint it.
Temp. is important. If its really cool & damp. put it off.

Krixxer · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2009, 05:10:07 PM »

If you spray bomb it you have but a few options as for type. It will likely come down to availability.

I'll only suggest that you take a few beer cans and prime them with the same stuff you used on the bike. When you finally settle on the top coat use the cans as test panels.

mcuozzo · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2009, 05:36:29 PM »

Have you thought about powdercoating the frame?

I've gotten quotes of around $150 to have the frame de-greased, blasted and powdercoated.

I know it's more expensive, but powder coating is MUCH more durable.

If you are going to paint the frame and expect good results your going to spend money on de-greasers, sand papers and of course paint. I mean you might save $100 right away but will you be happy down the road???

547 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2009, 05:41:31 PM »

Quote from: mcuozzo on February 17, 2009, 05:36:29 PM

Have you thought about powdercoating the frame?

I've gotten quotes of around $150 to have the frame de-greased, blasted and powdercoated.

I know it's more expensive, but powder coating is MUCH more durable.

If you are going to paint the frame and expect good results your going to spend money on de-greasers, sand papers and of course paint. I mean you might save $100 right away but will you be happy down the road???

yeah i have considered powder coating. i wanted to do it all myself just because i had never done it before.
never again. but now that it has been stripped and primed and labored over, i just want to finish it off.
i will be doing my sons frame next and will definitely take it to a body shop.

Jamil20 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2009, 05:44:57 PM »

I got a quote for $400 to sandblast and powdercoat only the frame. No swing-arm, etc... I told them to stuff it.

547 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2009, 05:52:41 PM »

Quote from: Jamil20 on February 17, 2009, 05:44:57 PM

I got a quote for $400 to sandblast and powdercoat only the frame. No swing-arm, etc... I told them to stuff it.

i actually had one of the members offer to do it for free if i shipped it to him. he was gonna blast it and coat it. for some reason i turned him down.

Krixxer · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2009, 06:14:22 PM »

If you bring it to someone for P/C make sure YOU mask all the things YOU need to be masked! Don't leave up to them.

While at it get then to throw in a few feet of that green silicone high temp tape they use for masking

BobbyR · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2009, 06:15:16 PM »

Black Rustolem Enamel. Tough and cheap. Easily repaired also.

547 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2009, 06:22:08 PM »

Quote from: BobbyR on February 17, 2009, 06:15:16 PM

Black Rustolem Enamel. Tough and cheap. Easily repaired also.

i do want something tough and relatively cheap but i don't want to sacrifice anything for a few extra bucks.
how does the Rustolem weather over time?

Steve F · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2009, 06:24:50 PM »

Quote from: BobbyR on February 17, 2009, 06:15:16 PM

Black Rustolem Enamel. Tough and cheap. Easily repaired also.

2nd the Rust-Oleum. I've used the Rust-Oleum gloss black on a swing arm years ago, and it has held up beautifuly! Still glossy and tough. Several light coats, recoat just as it starts to tack, and one last heavier coat for gloss...three coats total. Just have to let it totally harden for about a week so you don't damage the finish while handling it.

BobbyR · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:11:21 PM »

Quote from: 547 on February 17, 2009, 06:22:08 PM

Quote from: BobbyR on February 17, 2009, 06:15:16 PM
Black Rustolem Enamel. Tough and cheap. Easily repaired also.
i do want something tough and relatively cheap but i don't want to sacrifice anything for a few extra bucks.
how does the Rustolem weather over time?

It matches easily and it won;t dissolve with brake fluid. It is a slow dryer compared to automotive, but tough as nails.

Bill Vaughan · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:53:19 PM »

This paint is great (for rattle can) if you can find it. Car performance shops are your best bet. I've done a half dozen frames with it and they look great years later.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2009, 10:05:55 PM »

duplicolor paint shop system. theres no reducers or hardeners to put in, just use their primer, the color coat and their clear. and an added bonus is you can get these paints by the quart or in a spray can. i sprayed mine out of a cheap 49 buck paintgun from lowes and this stuff is practially idiot proof. one thing, do NOT use a high speed buffer on this paint. after several months of the paint being on the frame and tins i was able to use a highspeed buffer but at very low rpms and a black (fine) foam pad. best way is to buff it our by hand after using 1000, 1500, then 2000 grit paper.

billybobobrain · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2009, 10:11:52 PM »

I just bought a bunch of the duplicolor sprey cans for my frame, I hope it turns out.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #15 on:** February 17, 2009, 10:41:36 PM »

i did the frame in the blue metalflake and the tank/sidecovers with the brilliant silver. looks decent where theres no trash in the paint. when i redo it next year i'll use the same paint, same gun just better prep and a better "paint booth"

GK · « **Reply #16 on:** February 18, 2009, 12:26:08 AM »

What no pics

Lets see how it turned out, good or bad.
cheers, GK

XN · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2009, 01:44:54 AM »

Powder coat

Steve F · « **Reply #18 on:** February 18, 2009, 04:24:40 AM »

Quote from: billybobobrain on February 17, 2009, 10:11:52 PM

I just bought a bunch of the duplicolor sprey cans for my frame, I hope it turns out.

I used the Duplicolor stuff on a frame. It goes on really easily, dries fast. Down side is it's very hard and chips off way too easy.

hymodyne · « **Reply #19 on:** February 18, 2009, 04:37:08 AM »

I used self etching primer from a can, and put on topcoats of Epoxy paint-the kind sold in ratlecans for refrigerators and so on. Its a fuel resistant (not proof) top coat that cleans up pretty well.

hym

mikeb4 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 18, 2009, 07:38:20 AM »

I have used the POR15 black hardnose paint with great results .... very hard finish and can be painted with a brush (cleaner when in a garage/basement). Since it dries really slow it flows out nice smooth and shiny.

UnCrash · « **Reply #21 on:** February 18, 2009, 08:20:57 AM »

Quote

I have used the POR15 black hardnose paint with great results .... very hard finish and can be painted with a brush (cleaner when in a garage/basement). Since it dries really slow it flows out nice smooth and shiny.

What!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Holy Moly I think you have answered my dilemma! I'm amazed that you can brush it on and it flows out nicely! That pic, is that of a brushed on paint?

Being able to brush it on would significantly please the missus and my little ones who don't like the smell of my rattlecanning in the basement "paint booth" I have a plastic room setup with a basement window fan, but it isn't drawing enough to prevent the smell from trickling up through the hardwood floors.

Please post more info.

mutt · « **Reply #22 on:** February 18, 2009, 08:42:23 AM »

give it a final coat of the same companies clear as per instructions, OR wait a month & wax it with Pledge spray funiture wax....give it a dose of that now & again & it will stay shiney....
it takes a very long time for good paint to fully cure & if you wax it too soon, the volatiles cant slowly evaporate.....
keep the can moving, 3 coats as said....

Johnny5 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 18, 2009, 09:06:18 AM »

Quote from: BobbyR on February 17, 2009, 06:15:16 PM

Black Rustolem Enamel. Tough and cheap. Easily repaired also.

Ditto. I added a touch of hardener to the paint. My frame turned out well and like Bobby said, easy to touch up.

mutt · « **Reply #24 on:** February 18, 2009, 10:04:24 AM »

rustoleum is funny stuff. It really wants rustoleum primer. And time & warmth to cure.

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Author Topic: what paint did you put on your frame? (Read 6690 times)

mutt

Krixxer

Jamil20

Krixxer

fuzzybutt

billybobobrain

fuzzybutt

mutt

mutt