Author Topic: Master Cylinder Finish  (Read 1068 times)

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Offline Bob Wessner

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« on: October 11, 2005, 12:15:27 PM »
Had a master cylinder reanodized this past summer for my K0, turned out pretty well, certianly better looking than the faded example on there now. What sort of finish/top coat is on these? Looking for something I can get in a rattle can. Thanks.
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Offline dusterdude

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« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2005, 12:36:00 PM »
if im not mistaken i thought anodization was a paint like process.if thats the case i would just by some spray clearcoat and go from there.
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Offline Chris Liston

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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2005, 12:42:44 PM »
Anodizing is actually an electrical process where the part is charged and the color goes to it.  Pretty sure thats it.  saw a site that showed you how to do it at home using RIT clothing dye
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Offline Bob Wessner

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« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2005, 01:48:49 PM »
From what I have read and can tell, it is a process the sort of dyes the aluminum. The color is good, but the surface is not a satin finish. It was done by a metal finisher who is also an SOHC/4 enthusiast and restorer, but had not done re-anodizing before. My M/C was a guinea pig. The prep work was a bear, I don't think he is interested in doing too many more.  ;) I'm thinking it does need some sort of clear coat, guess I was just wondering what kind would be best considering the application (i.e., possible brake fluid contact).
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Offline Bodi

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« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2005, 02:12:43 PM »
Anodizing uses an electrical current to form a porous aluminum oxide layer on the surface. Since it is initially quite porous a dye can be used to give the metal a colour after the anodizing process but before the surface is sealed. Boiling the part in plain water seals the surface somehow and it won't easily stain afterwards.
It's pretty easy to do at home, not terribly dangerous if you're respectful of the chemistry and electricity.
"Anodizing" just means using the aluminum as an anode. It's put in an acid solution (sulphuric acid as I recall, hydrohcloric acid dissolves aluminum) with a cathode usually made of lead. So the aluminum is positive (the anode) and the lead is negative (the cathode), you use a DC power source providing the required amperage (calculated from the surface area of your aluminum piece) for the required time.
Some alloys take colour poorly; sheet and extruded pieces generally come out very good but cast pieces tend to be splotchy. An anodized surface won't polish well at all, the modified surface just gets polished away.
Anodizing provides a fairly protective surface for aluminum but don't expect it to handle corrosive environments (road salt and water make a good corrosive environment).

Offline Quail "Owner of the comfortable k8"

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« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2005, 06:30:55 PM »
Has anyone ever powdercoated one?  The K7 and K8 is painted.
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Offline Bodi

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« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2005, 07:56:15 PM »
No science book :)
I used to do small part anodizing at a job about 20 years ago... just a plastic bin and some old power supply. We used mostly black dye but did some other colours too. Cast stuff would come out splotchy brown if we tried to black anodize it.
You compared it to chroming, but chroming is different in that it plates the part with a different metal. Aluminum metal oxidizes within a few minutes in air so a bare aluminum surface really isn't aluminum, but the oxide layer is extremely thin. Anodizing makes a deeper layer but it's still just aluminum oxide.
Oh, and I don't think hydrochloric acid does attack aluminum, sodium hydroxide does (bit confused). I used to use aluminum scrap and lye to generate hydrogen gas for exploding balloon projects too.