Topic: initial carb setting - K0

[tlbranth]

Starting from scratch, one carb at a time put a small straight screwdriver in the carb with the blade just under the back of the piston. Back off the throttle stop screw until the screwdriver handle stops moving, then screw the throttle stop back in 'til the "T" on the screw shaft lines up with the index mark on the carb body. Once all these have been set, adjust the throttle cables so that all pistons begin moving at once. Do this as follows: Pick a cylinder as reference - say #4. Make sure it has some play in the cable and cinch it down. Then with a screwdriver under the pistons of #3 & #4,  slowly twist the throttle 'til one or both screwdriver handles move. Adjust #3 cable until they both move together & cinch down #3 - recheck. Leave the screwdriver in #4 and synchronize it with # 2 then #1. It's really easy to see movement using this method because it's amplified significantly.

[Bob Wessner]

Are you still planning to sync them with gauges, etc?

[tlbranth]

Yes, I built a 4-tube mercury manometer back in the early 70's to do this bike with. Just thought I'd throw out a couple of ideas I'd come up with during this reconstruction I'm doing.

[754]

Drill bit or rod is usually more accurate, and easy to remember the size.

 You can check it against a good running set, if you dont know what size to start with..

[Bob Wessner]

Yes, I built a 4-tube mercury manometer back in the early 70's to do this bike with. Just thought I'd throw out a couple of ideas I'd come up with during this reconstruction I'm doing.

The reason I asked it that I went through a somewhat similar procedure after rebuilding mine. It certainly was close enough to get the bike running. However, once I connected the Carbtune I was surprised to see the differences in vacuum between the carbs. It seems to take sooo little movement of the slides to make a difference.