Author Topic: Building a custom rear drum brake anchor arm (Read 24148 times)

fishhead · « **Reply #25 on:** February 21, 2009, 09:36:56 AM »

I used the heim joints on both ends of my brake stay rod with a 1/2 DOM tube threaded on each end.

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #26 on:** February 21, 2009, 10:27:51 AM »

I made a cool bar or two.

I could make you one that kicks ass, or send you a t60/61 blank and you could make it yourself. I have a few blanks...

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #27 on:** February 21, 2009, 12:27:03 PM »

Industrial Cafe
I would totally love one if you can spare it, I can even paypal you some $ for it and shipping, I want to experiment with a few different things since I have lots of time and little $ these days. I will PM you.

Here is a little artistic interpretation of some pics from my hour of twisties riding yesterday.
Clifton VA
Clifton Road, Kinchloe Road (holy %#*, where did the blacktop go? How did I get in a Park?), PW Pkwy... a nice little ride right in my backyard, perfect for a 40 degree weekday when the roads are empty.

these little web versions do not do the pix justice, the first one in big format is my new desktop, and looks great on my 21 inch monitor

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #28 on:** February 21, 2009, 12:43:09 PM »

word.

754 · « **Reply #29 on:** February 21, 2009, 07:13:31 PM »

What else is around where that Vintage TEXACO sign is, in the pics on the last post..

Alan F. · « **Reply #30 on:** February 21, 2009, 07:16:04 PM »

Quote

Maybe I should double it up?

Any suggestions from the class?

I'd use 3 pieces of the material you used, but I'd only have the cool countersink work on the one that's in plain view.
I'd paint the two outer ones red, but the center one I'd paint black, so it'd look like a black stripe down the middle. This might look pretty good with your color scheme. Probably a good idea to put a bolt through one of the center holes for rigidity.

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #31 on:** February 22, 2009, 06:09:14 AM »

Quote from: 754 on February 21, 2009, 07:13:31 PM

What else is around where that Vintage TEXACO sign is, in the pics on the last post..

cool late 1800's church, same era Masonic Lodge that is being re-built, some beautiful big $$$$ homes

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=main+st+clifton+va&sll=47.678619,-122.131012&sspn=26.779495,56.601563&ie=UTF8&ll=38.780768,-77.387073&spn=0.00189,0.003455&t=h&z=18

<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=main+st+clifton+va&sll=47.678619,-122.131012&sspn=26.779495,56.601563&ie=UTF8&ll=38.788212,-77.381859&spn=0.00189,0.003455&t=h&z=14&output=embed&s=AARTsJrUmfoXCmz3GBIH36QTrzc9Lywtnw"></iframe>
<small><a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en&geocode=&q=main+st+clifton+va&sll=47.678619,-122.131012&sspn=26.779495,56.601563&ie=UTF8&ll=38.788212,-77.381859&spn=0.00189,0.003455&t=h&z=14" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map[/url]</small>

poke around on the map, there are some real nice riding and sights around there

spdiii · « **Reply #32 on:** February 22, 2009, 06:52:06 AM »

Has anyone considered that maybe this part needs to be rigid in the event that the brakes are applied while the bike is moving in reverse. (rolling backwards down a steep driveway, or using rear brake to assist unloading from truck-bed or trailer. I wonder if it would just fold in half due to flexability and the amount of holes drilled into the peice???

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #33 on:** February 22, 2009, 07:14:22 AM »

Nick-
consensus is the single 14ga steel is too flimsy.

AlanF-
The sandwich look would be cool

maybe...

BUT...
where this stands right now is that I am getting a piece of 3/8 6061 aluminum from Industrial Cafe that I am going to thin the ends, drill/countersink conservatively, and anodize myself when it is done. For the time being (it's snowing today, high 40's later this week, that's what I get for posting riding pics when 50% of us have snow here in the north) I am going to slap back on the perfectly good stocker for any rides I might do, and probably double or triple up the one I made just for $h1t$ and giggles this week.

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #34 on:** February 22, 2009, 08:09:28 AM »

drill conservatively

I just get bored, and I have this drill and all these bits in their cases, and these parts... they beg me, and it's so loud in my head... I can still hear it when I stick broccoli in my ears- cause thats what stops the voices usually, but noooo! "drill on me drill on me" thats all I hear till I do it.
whoa, I got carried away...

mystic_1 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 22, 2009, 10:09:44 AM »

Quote from: Industrial Cafe on February 22, 2009, 08:09:28 AM

drill conservatively

Isn't this a bit like Bill Clinton saying "stay faithful" or Michael Phelps saying "Just say no"

Hey, buddy, have you taken a good look at your bike recently? There's only about 50% of it left!

mystic_1

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #36 on:** February 22, 2009, 10:33:44 AM »

that must mean it weighs 50% less too!

and if my incredibly complex math skills are correct, I have gained 384 horses.

bradweingartner · « **Reply #37 on:** February 22, 2009, 02:48:05 PM »

Honestly, I wouldn't worry much at all about the overall tensile strength of that piece. I'd be MUCH more worried about the holes in the end stretching oblong as much from suspension movement as anything. A washer or two welded on the ends is likely more than sufficient to prevent that. otherwise I'd say it was fine. Chances of you stretching that bar out due to rear braking is zero IMO. It'll skid way before that.

But the mounting holes are suspect.

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #38 on:** February 22, 2009, 04:03:28 PM »

I figured the same thing, even if you use mine the holes could become oblong, I think it would be a good idea to press a bushing (steel or bronze) into the mount holes.

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #39 on:** February 22, 2009, 04:24:59 PM »

bronze bushing sounds good....
where to find one though?

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #40 on:** February 22, 2009, 04:28:23 PM »

the bushing drawer at lowes, if you can't find em where you are, I'll go look at mine, they're for lawnmowers.

754 · « **Reply #41 on:** February 22, 2009, 08:24:45 PM »

The stock bolts shoulder replaces the need for a bushing.

Nobody said the arm wont work for a while, its just that after a while you tend to forget about it and, if it does let go, it may be at a really bad time..

..(there is never a good time)

Just fer the heckofit, push it backwards and get someone to push on the brake a bit..

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #42 on:** February 22, 2009, 10:14:35 PM »

maybe I misunderstood,
I was talking about the 3/8 think brake bar, not the steel one he made... so it doesn't make the hole into a slot- up by the mount on the swingarm.

754 · « **Reply #43 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:16:27 AM »

I measured the 76 and earlier style

.188 thick at mount holes.

.130 on the rest of it..

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #44 on:** March 02, 2009, 11:41:48 AM »

v 2.0 in progress

thanks to Industrial Cafe for the alloy blank

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #45 on:** March 02, 2009, 11:44:11 AM »

How best to thin out the ends???
I have filed them down some, but it will take forever that way....

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #46 on:** March 02, 2009, 12:53:50 PM »

d'you have a bench grinder and a dremel? i measured and lined it up on the edge with a marker.
then just laid the end of the piece on the stone wheel of my grinder. it fills up with aluminum pieces and takes forever. but my stone is worn down so, i dont care.

thats just to get the rough cut, then just ease it down with a fiberglass cutoff wheel and file it with a rough file to make sure it's flat. then i use a fine file to smooth it out.
sand it and viola!

I like to graduate the edge into the wider piece, if its sharp I think it'll make a breaking point.
and like i said, it takes forever.

,Brian

P.S. You like the name I wrote on the shipping box?

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #47 on:** March 02, 2009, 01:45:13 PM »

good stuff, thanks I C

I laughed my @$$ off when I got the shipping confirmation email

I am picking up a bench grinder this week as well as a drill press with my final paycheck from my job, up till now it has been all hand done. I have the front end thinned about 1/3 of the way by hand and I need a quicker way. Was your rear section angled a little like this?
Did you make yours at an angle, or did you bend it at all? I was going to try and machine it down at an angle because I figured bending it would weaken it.

Industrial Cafe · « **Reply #48 on:** March 02, 2009, 02:07:53 PM »

mine wasn't bent at all, but it would be a good idea to shave it at an angle if the bend is necessary.
I wouldn't bend it.
I shimmed it up between the drum and the arm with some pieces I made from some scrap stainless.

it's just a mock up. there's a hole drilled in the stainless bolt for a pin and it has a long shank so the threads don't dig in. I just need a nice stainless castle nut.

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #49 on:** March 24, 2009, 08:16:13 PM »

well....
I never got the drill press or the bench grinder, so this was made totally with a hand drill, dremel and 3 files. I did use a friends drill press to do the holes for the bronze bushings.
Big thanks to IC for the blank and the advice, I owe ya a beer or 10.
Probably 40+ hours of hand filing on this @*%$er

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Author Topic: Building a custom rear drum brake anchor arm (Read 24148 times)