Author Topic: Swapping out fork seals w/o removing forks? (Read 3034 times)

scartail · « **on:** February 25, 2009, 06:25:11 PM »

Hope this isnt too green of a question. Can I replace my fork seals without having to remove the fork from the triple tree? I've got a 76 550K. Thanks!!

Krixxer · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2009, 06:31:07 PM »

If you find a way then I'd like to see it!

Gordon · « **Reply #2 on:** February 25, 2009, 06:35:29 PM »

It's possible, but I see no benefit to doing it that way.

754 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:05:20 PM »

Benefit, its quicker, dont have to remove 1 end of gaiter, dont disturb headlight ears, dont have to loosen triple clamp bolts, if done right dont have to take fork cap off.

Works on 73 and later 750, not sure on 500..

Gordon · « **Reply #4 on:** February 25, 2009, 10:57:40 PM »

Quote from: 754 on February 25, 2009, 08:05:20 PM

Benefit, its quicker, dont have to remove 1 end of gaiter, dont disturb headlight ears, dont have to loosen triple clamp bolts, if done right dont have to take fork cap off.

754 is correct. You could save yourself about 5 minutes of work per fork.

754 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2009, 07:59:07 AM »

Bet its not 1/6 hr difference at a Honda dealer..

pablo78cb550 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:09:10 AM »

so you're saying you want to leave the inner tubes in the tree?
.... hope it doesn't fall forward and mess up the bottoms.

754 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:13:38 AM »

You have to block the bike up, or hang it regardless. It has to be the right style of forks to do this.

I was incorrect stating that you did not have to remove top cap to add the oil.

scartail · « **Reply #8 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:32:22 PM »

I was thinking it from the perspective of not only time, but the convenience of it already being mounted and not fussing with the head lamp.

Thanks for all the advice guys!

Henrik Vik · « **Reply #9 on:** February 28, 2009, 12:10:17 AM »

Can only talk for the bike I have, a CB750 K2, but I guess it will be the same. Yes, it's possible. But it's a lot more work that way. I wouldn't do it like that. If you slide the forks out of the triple trees, the rest is straight forward. Just pull the dust covers up the fork stanchions and loosen the circlips. Then just pull the lower fork legs off. That's it. Off with old seals, on with new ones. Jobs done.

754 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 28, 2009, 08:09:56 AM »

It wont work on the K2, at least not by pulling only 1 bolt per fork leg.

As far as I remember, you have to hammer the seal off on the 72, by repeatedly hitting the seal with the fork bushing.

On the other later style, you can probably pull off both forks with fender still bolted on.

There has to be a flat rate mechanic out there, that has done this , and made quick money..

coyotecowboy · « **Reply #11 on:** March 13, 2009, 05:32:50 PM »

bringing a post back from the dead, but on my 750 K2 I'll need to take the tubes loose from the trees? Crap, I was hoping I could just drop the lowers and yank the seals without taking the tubes loose. Oh well, that'll give me a chance to clean everything in there

Gordon · « **Reply #12 on:** March 13, 2009, 06:38:07 PM »

Quote from: coyotecowboy on March 13, 2009, 05:32:50 PM

bringing a post back from the dead, but on my 750 K2 I'll need to take the tubes loose from the trees? Crap, I was hoping I could just drop the lowers and yank the seals without taking the tubes loose. Oh well, that'll give me a chance to clean everything in there

It's really not much work to remove the forks, and will save you time and effort in the end. I guess if you were going to be doing this for a living and could benefit from putting the time into learning how to do it faster by leaving the top half of the forks in the trees, then that might be the way to go, but if you only plan on doing this once or twice for the life of your bike, then follow the procedure in your manual.

coyotecowboy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 13, 2009, 10:23:39 PM »

Thanks Gordon, thats what I needed to know

jaknight · « **Reply #14 on:** March 13, 2009, 10:49:56 PM »

Hi Guys,

One thing about taking it really all apart......... I did so a few years ago...... man am I glad I did.

A really bad place of danger is under the "fork ears" or "headlight ears", on the top of the tubes that the bolt goes through to hold the headlight in place. Mine looked perfectly chromed on the outside, but when I dismantled everything......

The rust on the inside was horrible..... darn near the worst I've seen. I would never have dreamt there was such bad rust in there. Very glad I pulled them off to prevent something really bad from happening..........

Just a thought.......

~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

coyotecowboy · « **Reply #15 on:** March 14, 2009, 11:32:26 AM »

That's the other thing I was thinking about, rust under the headlight ears. Guess I could clean it up and hit it with some spray paint.

billybobobrain · « **Reply #16 on:** March 14, 2009, 12:39:33 PM »

Quote from: 754 on February 28, 2009, 08:09:56 AM

It wont work on the K2, at least not by pulling only 1 bolt per fork leg.

As far as I remember, you have to hammer the seal off on the 72, by repeatedly hitting the seal with the fork bushing.

On the other later style, you can probably pull off both forks with fender still bolted on.

There has to be a flat rate mechanic out there, that has done this , and made quick money..

Please elaborate on this, do you mean that you take the fork tube and use it in a slide hammer action pulling the fork apart violently in order that one might loosen the seal?

coyotecowboy · « **Reply #17 on:** March 14, 2009, 12:51:20 PM »

From what I can tell, you just pull the snap ring and use the fork lower as a slide hammer.

I think...

billybobobrain · « **Reply #18 on:** March 14, 2009, 01:02:00 PM »

Thank you sir. I will have to give that a try!

goon 1492 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 07, 2009, 09:41:34 AM »

Billy how you doin' on the forks?(I will have to check your thread) I got one of my fork seals(silly me forgot to check the ammount box when ordering

) and I have to get the other one in before tearing into it, so now I am studying....

I am on the fence about the atf fluid, I have heard mixed things about it but nothing bad, still curious though $:-\$

coyotecowboy · « **Reply #20 on:** April 07, 2009, 10:51:38 AM »

Got mine back together (after polishing EVERYTHING and doing the disc side swap) The slidehammer trick worked great with my K2 forks, but the new seals were grade A bastards to get back in. I didn't have anything to use for a seal driver, so I had to do the "use the old seal as a driver" trick. Little suckers went in tight and I was beginning to wonder if I could get them in far enough to put in the snap rings before I screwed them up. Finally got them in, bolted everything together, filled with Pro Circuit PC01 fork fluid (1 cup is pretty close to 7.5 to 7.8 oz. that Honda recommends) put in my new air fork caps (THANKS RON!!

) and was totally friggin amazed at the difference in how it rode. Is was like I had to learn how to ride again. It wouldn't bounce when I was used to (like entering a corner) and I never realized that I was compensating for it with the throttle. Now I realize how #$%*ty the rear shocks are

And as for the original question: If you've never has the forks out and apart (and they havent been apart since it left Japan) for doG's sake, get them things outta there and clean 'em right. I couldn't believe the kind of crap that came out of those things, and as I expected, my upper fork tubes were a rusty, crusty mess. clean them on the wire wheel, and smooth them up with some emery cloth. I smeared them with anti-seize before I put them back in. They really didn't want to come out that first time!

Hope this helps!

jaknight · « **Reply #21 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:09:59 PM »

Hi Guys,

Quote from: coyotecowboy on April 07, 2009, 10:51:38 AM

And as for the original question: If you've never has the forks out and apart (and they havent been apart since it left Japan) for doG's sake, get them things outta there and clean 'em right. I couldn't believe the kind of crap that came out of those things, and as I expected, my upper fork tubes were a rusty, crusty mess. clean them on the wire wheel, and smooth them up with some emery cloth. I smeared them with anti-seize before I put them back in. They really didn't want to come out that first time!

That's why on mine, I was glad I took them completely apart. Mine was a rusty, corroded mess......

~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

Johnie · « **Reply #22 on:** April 07, 2009, 03:27:43 PM »

If you are spending the time to change the seals you are correct, take them apart and clean the crap out of them. Chances are they have never been cleaned since built. I just like to do it right and not cut corners. How can you go wrong with new seals, clean uppers and lowers and new fork oil. I would hate to dump clean fork oil into the crap that was on the bottom of my KO & K1 forks.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 08, 2009, 06:41:12 AM »

You all said it right; mine barly had any thing come out of the right fork tube, a little shot of primodial goo and a tbsp of fluid. The leaky side(left) was a different story, I pulled the drain plug and it almost shot out of my hand and shot a plug of goo along with a stream of fluid out and three feet across my shop floor. Best part is I ruined the back side of a perfect piece(one piece not two glued together) of red oak that was 36in x 15in

. it took the main stream of fluid and blocked the laundry form getting it.

Does fork oil smell? Mine smelled like rearend diff fluid

I have never torn into forks yeet so I wanted to ask.

I will post some pics when I get things apart, one other thing what is this broom stick I have read of?

My bike is a 67 750k but I think the forks are newer because the front had been wrecked or in a ditch at one time and now has some k8 parts on it.

754 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 08, 2009, 07:47:55 AM »

"Tired of the Same Old FORKING Thing?,
Try SEAL SWAPPING !

"

Starting to sound like this should be in the personal Ads..

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #25 on:** April 08, 2009, 07:52:01 AM »

Quote

My bike is a 67 750k but I think the forks are newer because the front had been wrecked or in a ditch at one time and now has some k8 parts on it.

they made cb750's in 67???

i am still shocked

that we are even suggesting that you leave the fork tubes in the bike that is the lamest idea i have ever heard that like saying i'm going though all the trouble to get a new rear tire but i'm gunna reuse my 30+ yearold tube

tubes are cheap REPLACE IT! its your life you are talking about this is not a car with 4 wheels and metal all around you this is a BIKE it was 2 wheel its dangerious!!!! anything on my bike that deals with brakes suspension, or tires i spare NO expensense!!!!! look at the post b4 mine... the guy rebuilt his forks and said the bike was AWSOME afterwards you want to take everything apart check it over good and put it back together i took my forks off and cleaned them and changed the fluid.. it made a world of difference now i realize that my springs are sagging

so i bought some progressive springs from DYNOMAN.NET... NUF SAID

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 08, 2009, 08:57:46 AM »

http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/frkng/frkng.htm

there that is the link for rebuilding your forks STEP BY STEP

754 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 08, 2009, 09:12:53 AM »

Umm...some of us have owned our bikes for enough decades that we know what is in our forks.. we actually know our bikes and changing a seal and oil is like.. well changing the oil and seal.

You are forgetting that you can wear out a set of seals in a season or two.

Like I mentioned earlier, its easy on a 73 & later, but on a 72 or earlier, you pretty well need seal installing blocks or, you can damage the seals.

Do you flush your motor eveytime you change the oil?

One you get past your PO problems its finally your bike, & dont forget.. some on here, actually got theirs new..

Its not How you get it done.. its THAT you get it done..

goon 1492 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 08, 2009, 09:33:46 AM »

Oops, I got a little dislexic evOlution7

Thanks for the link too, this will help anyone else that sniffs this one out.

754 I never blew a seal and never will, beastieality is not for me, my cousin on the other hand...

754 that is some great points and not very nice on the next to last one, I wish I had mine from the start

Oh the PO's the PO's when will I get over the PO's... Might have to go to the doc and get a injection or lotion.

Also I wasn't worried about cleaning the forks at first, my bike was a storage unit find and spent most of its life so far on the center stand

I will clean everything out though and this will show others that had the same thought as I did to go ahead and do it while your in there.

jaknight · « **Reply #29 on:** April 08, 2009, 11:54:09 AM »

Hi Goon,

You're already ahead of the game....... I can tell you've got a good attitude....... willing to change and adopt for the better of you and your bike....... that's important....... I've noticed some here that are severely lacking in that attitude department and diplomacy....

Ride On.....

~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

goon 1492 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 08, 2009, 01:03:05 PM »

Yeah I have the firm belief that anything is possible, after all Mary had a little lamb.

We reinvent the wheel on a weekly basis at my work so my self confidence is riding on that for everything else I do.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 09, 2009, 06:49:34 AM »

Holy crap, that walk thru for the forks is pure gold evOlution7!

It literally takes ALL the guess work out, and he even has a sweet pvc pipe connector that is the perfece for driving inthe new seal with. Oooh I have to go back and print this out for my Goon's home made honda manual

billybobobrain · « **Reply #32 on:** April 09, 2009, 06:07:05 PM »

Hey for all that care. I pulled the snap ring and just lightly bounced the fork on a piece of wood and the seal came loose very easy! I couldn't imagine doing that with the forks/wheel on the bike!

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 09, 2009, 10:19:27 PM »

the reason i say just take them out is not because the P.O. might of damaged it but because its always a good idea to check out the front end everythime it needs service like i said i dont skimp its your life your talking about.... would you wear leathers and boots and a good helmet and put your "hot" Girl Friend on the back of your bike in a tank top short shorts.. and flip flops? oh and dont forget the $300 helmet on her head... if you go down her head will be ok but she will prol need alot of skin graphs!

come on guys its just not smart to leave important parts that might need inspection on the bike and not take them apart! if i need a new rear tire you bet i'm looking at my wheel bearings rear shocks.. swing arm pivot, rear brakes, front and rear sprockets, and chain....

my point is your only saving yourself a few min when you could save yourself a trip to the hospital if something goes wrong right???

754 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 09, 2009, 10:31:57 PM »

I for one wil not do a full teardown, if I know what shape things are in, and its just time to change seals.

My forks dont rust & I dont always use headlight ears.. & having owned both, I really prefer the 73 and later style on the 750..

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #35 on:** April 10, 2009, 12:18:01 AM »

sorry to hijack, just a question. i feel like an ass for not knowing this as i've been working on bikes, cars, boats for almost 30 years now. how important is it for the fork seal to get all the way to the bottom of the hole? the snap ring goes in well before the seal hits the bottom.

jaknight · « **Reply #36 on:** April 10, 2009, 12:43:42 AM »

You're OK Fuzzy,

As long as the snap ring does go in and seat in its grove........ you've got it made.

I have seen quite a few of the seal bottoming depths vary. With the snap ring located and seated..... you're home free.

~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

goon 1492 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 10, 2009, 06:50:18 AM »

Quote from: 754 on April 09, 2009, 10:31:57 PM

I for one wil not do a full teardown, if I know what shape things are in, and its just time to change seals.

My forks dont rust & I dont always use headlight ears.. & having owned both, I really prefer the 73 and later style on the 750..

Yeah most can feel something different, I can tell really quick on all my vehicles when something is a miss, if I had my bike on a main road for more than 5 mins and not just my side street I would feel the forks and how they need some juice.

This is not the case for all though, some need to look into there and see mainly if the bike is a mystery with the P.O's and all that fun.

News:

Author Topic: Swapping out fork seals w/o removing forks? (Read 3034 times)

Krixxer

billybobobrain

billybobobrain

ev0lution7

ev0lution7

billybobobrain

ev0lution7

fuzzybutt