Author Topic: Engine case paint (Read 20597 times)

Cvillechopper · « **Reply #25 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:09:16 AM »

POR-15 makes an engine paint color aluminum. It looks really nice. i haven't tried it up against gas yet but it says that it'll be no problem.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #26 on:** March 16, 2009, 03:15:59 PM »

Quote from: Turbogrimace on March 16, 2009, 08:00:08 AM

Not to Jack the thread, but are you guys painting the engine cases with them bolted together, or are you spraying them apart? I was thinking of putting the lower end together and then painting, so I would avoid scratching the paint during bottem end assembly.

Any pros and cons for doing it either way?

I painted my cases while together, cyl block, head & head cover separately. Just cuz that's all the further I disassembled it. I put the cyl block back on the pistons while on the bench, then put the engine back in the frame. Head is still on the bench getting it's valves lapped.

I used Dupli-Color engine enamel primer and engine enamel aluminum top coat. No clear. so far no scratches, but a lot of wrenching to go yet.

Magpie · « **Reply #27 on:** March 16, 2009, 03:33:44 PM »

Mine was totally apart so it much easier plus you're not painting the heads of the bolts that way although with some patience they can be taped off I guess. I also wrapped the little rubber bugs between the fins to keep them the original colour. What? Me anal?
Cliff.

kabuki · « **Reply #28 on:** March 29, 2009, 03:02:53 PM »

Is it necessary to paint the case interior? When I was stripping the outside of the cases, some of the interior coating got melted. Should I strip it all off and leave it, or re-coat with something?

Thanks,

Tim. · « **Reply #29 on:** March 29, 2009, 03:09:06 PM »

There's an interior coating? I don't think anyone would suggest painting the interior of the engine cases.

stevenmgrr · « **Reply #30 on:** March 29, 2009, 07:17:31 PM »

Regarding engine painting, what did you use to clean the cases to prep them for painting?

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #31 on:** March 29, 2009, 11:15:14 PM »

Engine enamel 500-550 degrees or High Temp 1500 degrees?? VHT or Duplicolor.

Who has used both and what results have you had?

MrZxp · « **Reply #32 on:** March 30, 2009, 12:34:45 AM »

540 celsius (1000F) White Knight aluminium - probably not a brand that can be sourced in North America, but it went on well and not a single issue so far.. it looks quite good too!

johnyvilla · « **Reply #33 on:** March 30, 2009, 01:47:04 AM »

I have used Por15 before and really would not recommend it. I am starting to get some brown spots around spark plug holes.

kabuki · « **Reply #34 on:** March 31, 2009, 08:51:33 PM »

I want to paint my engine (cases, cyl block, head, valve cover, exhaust header retaining rings).

I was going to use the PJ1 fast black satin on everything. I'm wondering if the 500F rating is enough for the whole engine. Is the super high heat ceramic only needed for headers?

Thanks,

paulages · « **Reply #35 on:** April 11, 2009, 12:44:08 PM »

Quote from: kabuki on March 31, 2009, 08:51:33 PM

I want to paint my engine (cases, cyl block, head, valve cover, exhaust header retaining rings).

I was going to use the PJ1 fast black satin on everything. I'm wondering if the 500F rating is enough for the whole engine. Is the super high heat ceramic only needed for headers?

Thanks,

if your engine gets over 500F, you've got problems.

bwaller · « **Reply #36 on:** April 11, 2009, 01:43:21 PM »

Jerry asked if anyone has used both. Here's my 2 cents.

Two different engines disassembled, cleaned, both bead blasted, then washed clean with hot soapy water and rinsed. Reassembled without internals and with scrappy covers in place. Then warmed and sprayed with a self etching primer and baked at 200 degrees for 30 minutes.

One engine received two light coats of VHT SP127 Universal aluminum enamel rated @550F. Again baked for 30 mins. @200.

So far the VHT seems tough, no gas issues, but after two years is just off aluminum in color. It isn't an issue, I like it.

The second (single cylinder dirt bike) sprayed with two coats of Dupli-color DE1615 Aluminum enamel 500F and again baked as above.

After a week I shot this second engine with two light coats of Eastwoods Diamond Clear Extreme which is advertized as high heat, impact and chemical resistant.

The Dupli-color is very aluminum but does seem to dull slightly after the enine was run to probably a closer match to Honda's original color.

I wanted to try a clear-coat material for yellowing issues and this single cylinder is my "test bed." The jury is still out as the bike only has a few hours on it.

jasonseasen · « **Reply #37 on:** July 09, 2009, 08:00:06 AM »

I recently primed my cases with a self-etching primer. Do I need to bake the halfs first before putting on the coasts of VHT?

Gamma · « **Reply #38 on:** July 09, 2009, 09:55:57 AM »

ACE Heat Resistant Paint for B-B-Q's and boilers, as that's all I could get here. Say's it withstands heat up to 1000F intermittantly.
I baked the cases and barrels in the oven. (But not the head Mike!)

Have wiped neat petrol on it with no noticable change (it didn't come off!)

Will let you know if it all falls off when I eventually run it.

God knows where i will get the frame done!
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z293/galaxy8155/DSC02336.jpg[/img]]

OakBehringer · « **Reply #39 on:** July 09, 2009, 10:18:13 AM »

I did mine with Duplicolor over etchingprimer. Both color numbers are in the attached pic. I'll be starting the motor for the first time this weekend, so I can't yet account for the durability. I love the color of the cast-coat iron (even though I don't think it really looks like "iron").

technojock · « **Reply #40 on:** July 09, 2009, 10:38:36 AM »

I've found that the Honda and Yamaha brand case paints to be very good and they both have self oxidizing pain that doesn't require primer.

Tony

mystic_1 · « **Reply #41 on:** July 09, 2009, 02:10:04 PM »

1. What kind of etching primer are you all using?

2. Can you get Honda brand paint over the counter at the local shop? What's the price like? Got part numbers?

mystic_1

paulages · « **Reply #42 on:** July 10, 2009, 05:56:19 PM »

I think I posted this earlier in this thread, but I only use VHT engine enamel. I've never had paint failure, even through some pretty bad carb leaks (gas flooding the top of the engine case). I clean the cases in the solvent tank, run them through a dishwasher with detergent, then without, then paint without etching primer. Sometimes I beadblast and run through the dishwasher again, but the time spent plugging all of the oil and bolt holes is seldom worth it. I've cleaned oil leaks with brake parts cleaner, electric parts cleaner, paint prep... none have affected the paint.

Vin750 · « **Reply #43 on:** September 14, 2017, 07:44:31 AM »

Quote from: Bido on February 28, 2009, 03:41:33 PM

I don't know if you are going silver or black but I had good luck with Dupicolor Ceramic Low luster on my F3. I didn't like the color of the VHT too gray for me. I used the VHT aluminum with a clear coat on my 81 k and the clear did yellow some I wouldn't do it again.

Bido

Hi Bido, did you have the original black to compare with the painted version?

What dupicolour black did you use? low gloss or medium gloss?

I am doing my F2 as well and it has proven very hard to match the paint.

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Author Topic: Engine case paint (Read 20597 times)

kabuki

kabuki

technojock