Author Topic: Engine case paint (Read 20598 times)

JLeather · « **on:** February 27, 2009, 02:13:20 PM »

I've got my cases empty, hotanked, and ready for paint. What is the best thing to paint them with so they'll stay pretty? I know a dude on the chop board painted his with that hammered-finish rustoleum and they looked really cool, but it doesn't hold up well to gas. Anyone got a special secret paint?

Alan F. · « **Reply #1 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:22:20 PM »

Quite a few of us are or will be using VHT's SP-127 it's a gray aluminum color that's rather close to the original honda gray. The kicker is that it's a high heat paint that you need to cure by running the engine for a half hour or so (there are threads about curing this paint, I guess it's very stinky...)
I haven't gotten to that point yet, but it is my plan... Maybe a search on this paint will tell you more about fuel resistance.

nokrome · « **Reply #2 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:24:15 PM »

+1 on the vht

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #3 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:59:00 PM »

I'm going with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel "Aluminum". My engine is in pieces right now. I've painted the head cover and the oil filter housing so far and like what I see.

paulages · « **Reply #4 on:** February 27, 2009, 07:06:25 PM »

i love the VHT "nu-cast aluminum." it's shinier than the universal aluminum (which does look closer to the stock color), but dulls down to a nice finish. the latter turns pretty grey. good stuff though.

MRieck · « **Reply #5 on:** February 27, 2009, 07:43:23 PM »

Quote from: OldSchool_IsCool on February 27, 2009, 06:59:00 PM

I'm going with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel "Aluminum". My engine is in pieces right now. I've painted the head cover and the oil filter housing so far and like what I see.

I've used it for a number of years now.....time tested and it is great stuff. Very, very durable. i'll post some pics of it tomorrow of several engines I'm building now.

oldfett · « **Reply #6 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:34:03 PM »

How do you guys typically apply the paint and do you use a clear? From what I understand from VHT and Dupli-Color you do a few coats of primer and all the coats have to be done within an hour. Then you have to wait about a week. Do your color the same way as the primer. Wait another week and then a clear. Do I have this right or not? Finally most of these require curring or baking, do they give directions on how to do this somewhere? My last VHT can did not have any directions about this.

CrescentSon · « **Reply #7 on:** February 27, 2009, 10:29:26 PM »

Just a novice here, but that's a lot of paint on air cooled cases. I just painted my CB400 case with duplicolor, oven cured and it looks great. Prep, couple coats, you're on your way.

I have also seen the clear coat yellow quite a bit, depending on what you use.

oldfett · « **Reply #8 on:** February 27, 2009, 10:34:02 PM »

Quote from: CresentSon on February 27, 2009, 10:29:26 PM

Just a novice here, but that's a lot of paint on air cooled cases. I just painted my CB400 case with duplicolor, oven cured and it looks great. Prep, couple coats, you're on your way.

I have also seen the clear coat yellow quite a bit, depending on what you use.

That is very true. So would you even recommend primer? What temp do you set the oven to and for how long?

nokrome · « **Reply #9 on:** February 27, 2009, 10:40:36 PM »

the vht can says 200 deg for 1 hour

CrescentSon · « **Reply #10 on:** February 28, 2009, 01:48:01 AM »

No, no primer. A lot of ol' timers tell me primer builds up faster/thicker which can lead to cooling issues. I went 250 till it stopped smoking (just a little, not too bad). I have also been warned about using a gas stove. Electric is better. The term gassing out is used, and from the context I don't think its a good thing. $:-\$

MRieck · « **Reply #11 on:** February 28, 2009, 06:22:17 AM »

Duplicolor and PJ1 satin black case paint

JLeather · « **Reply #12 on:** February 28, 2009, 07:01:48 AM »

MRieck, that aluminum colored paint looks great. Does it have to be cured/baked or is it just spray on and let it dry?

MRieck · « **Reply #13 on:** February 28, 2009, 07:45:04 AM »

Quote from: JLeather on February 28, 2009, 07:01:48 AM

MRieck, that aluminum colored paint looks great. Does it have to be cured/baked or is it just spray on and let it dry?

I hit it with a heat gun after it air drys but you really don't have to do that. It is a very durable finish. Here's a tip.......put the spray can in hot water for about 5 minutes prior to using it. The paint thins out a bit. The proprellant gets excited too. The paint ends up leveling great (just watch out for sags).

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #14 on:** February 28, 2009, 07:54:54 AM »

Quote from: MRieck on February 28, 2009, 07:45:04 AM

Here's a tip.......put the spray can in hot water for about 5 minutes prior to using it. The paint thins out a bit. The proprellant gets excited too. The paint ends up leveling great (just watch out for sags).

Sweet Tip M! I'll do that with the rest of my pieces. I didn't split the case, so I have one large piece I need to paint. I'm assuming I can paint the top side, let it cure a while as I work on the frame, then flip it and paint the bottom a few days later. I've degreased the parts with Cyclo heavy duty engine clean, hit it with a wire brush, light coat or two of primer then the Dupli-Color.

I'll add your tip about warming the paint can first. Any other tips or mods to my process you think I should consider?

Magpie · « **Reply #15 on:** February 28, 2009, 08:27:17 AM »

Duplicolor 1615 came closest to my stock K1's color and recommended in Mark haycock's book on 750's.
Cliff.

MRieck · « **Reply #16 on:** February 28, 2009, 08:31:59 AM »

Quote from: Magpie on February 28, 2009, 08:27:17 AM

Duplicolor 1615 came closest to my stock K1's color and recommended in Mark haycock's book on 750's.
Cliff.

Those cases look awfully rough....you might want to get rid of them for some smooth ones.

Magpie · « **Reply #17 on:** February 28, 2009, 09:03:25 AM »

I was thinking of having them polished but it was way to expensive. I guess I'll just have to put up with the rough finish.

Cheers,
Cliff.

nokrome · « **Reply #18 on:** February 28, 2009, 02:34:24 PM »

hey magpie, where did you get those nice new case bolts?........looks great

Bido · « **Reply #19 on:** February 28, 2009, 03:41:33 PM »

I don't know if you are going silver or black but I had good luck with Dupicolor Ceramic Low luster on my F3. I didn't like the color of the VHT too gray for me. I used the VHT aluminum with a clear coat on my 81 k and the clear did yellow some I wouldn't do it again.

Bido

Magpie · « **Reply #20 on:** February 28, 2009, 03:50:53 PM »

Those are the original bolts, the ones with the large "8" on them, cleaned, cad plated then just touched to a wire whell. They come out nice.
Cheers,
Cliff.

paulages · « **Reply #21 on:** February 28, 2009, 05:45:30 PM »

Quote from: nokrome on February 28, 2009, 02:34:24 PM

hey magpie, where did you get those nice new case bolts?........looks great

phil-

i've used tacoma screw a bunch of times for case bolts. also, winks hardware on 3rd and stark have a lot, as well as parkrose hardware.

motorhead55 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 01, 2009, 11:28:59 AM »

I have a stock '76 550F. Are these paints suggested for the case the same silver for the head, cylinder and rockerbox?

paulages · « **Reply #23 on:** March 01, 2009, 11:48:28 AM »

Quote from: motorhead55 on March 01, 2009, 11:28:59 AM

I have a stock '76 550F. Are these paints suggested for the case the same silver for the head, cylinder and rockerbox?

the rockerbox cover is clearcoat over brushed aluminum stock. recommended for the head and cylinders though, but go light on the paint so as not to reduce their cooling capacity.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #24 on:** March 16, 2009, 08:00:08 AM »

Not to Jack the thread, but are you guys painting the engine cases with them bolted together, or are you spraying them apart? I was thinking of putting the lower end together and then painting, so I would avoid scratching the paint during bottem end assembly.

Any pros and cons for doing it either way?

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Author Topic: Engine case paint (Read 20598 times)