Author Topic: Valve adjustment question  (Read 6335 times)

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Offline friedfish80

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Valve adjustment question
« on: March 10, 2009, 02:59:31 PM »
76 CB750f
Ok got my manual out and open and im fallowing the instructions step by step.
Im at the point were you crank the motor over with the kick start to get to TDC on 1,4 cylinders. It saws that if cylinder that is at TDC will have "loose rocker arms". Here is where im stuck. Both cylinder 1 and 4 have tight arms. i cant seem to move them at all unless I use some sort of prybar on the valve.

Am I misinterpreting this?
How do YOU check to see which valve is loose?



Offline 750goes

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2009, 03:13:14 PM »
turn the crank another 360 degrees and try it again...


Offline MCRider

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2009, 03:15:30 PM »
76 CB750f
Ok got my manual out and open and im fallowing the instructions step by step.
Im at the point were you crank the motor over with the kick start to get to TDC on 1,4 cylinders. It saws that if cylinder that is at TDC will have "loose rocker arms". Here is where im stuck. Both cylinder 1 and 4 have tight arms. i cant seem to move them at all unless I use some sort of prybar on the valve.

Am I misinterpreting this?
How do YOU check to see which valve is loose?




The kickstart is not very precise. Use a wrench on the nut on the ignition side of the crankshft. You'll be looking in there to see the Top Dead Center marks anyway. Remove the sparkplugs to make turning the engine very easy.

As you are turning, watch the intake valve on lets say cyl 1. As it rises, look for your TDC mark. When you hit TDC, cyl 1 valves should be at their loose position. Cylinder 4 will still be tight. Only one at a time.  Turn the engine 360 degrees to get cyl 4 loose.

Now go 180 degrees. Do the same for 2, watch for the intake to start up, then look for the 2-3 TDC mark. 2 will be loose. 360 degrees for 3.

(There is a short cut. Once you are sure cyl 1 in and ex is at its loose postion, so will be cyl 2 exhast and cyl 3 intake. You can set 4 valves.  The balance are set with cyl 4 in and ex at loose position, 3 ex and 2 in.)

If when properly set, you can't get the tappets to tick indicating looseness, then you have tight valves and its good you are setting them.

This is an easy thing. Fingers only, no prybars. Remember the tappets are set at 2+ thou inch, so you won't get much of a tick. But they will tick. You are lifting the tappet up and down against the top of the valve. Not side to side.

« Last Edit: March 10, 2009, 03:22:15 PM by MCRider »
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Offline super pasty white guy

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2009, 03:19:50 PM »
Here's my method-  An imprecise interpretation of the above.

Remove all tappet covers and spark plugs

Turn engine to first TDC mark that appears.

Wiggle each adjuster.  Adjust ones that move.

Put caps on adjusted adjusters.

Move to next tdc mark and repeat above.


spwg
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Offline MCRider

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2009, 03:32:12 PM »
Here's my method-  An imprecise interpretation of the above.

Remove all tappet covers and spark plugs

Turn engine to first TDC mark that appears.

Wiggle each adjuster.  Adjust ones that move.

Put caps on adjusted adjusters.

Move to next tdc mark and repeat above.


spwg

That's definitely the way to do it.

Since Fr Fish said he couldn't get the tappets to move, I threw in the "watch the intake valve" routine to know which cylinder should be set.

Ride Safe:
Ron
1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline pablo78cb550

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2009, 04:25:33 PM »
what about the cam chain?
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Offline super pasty white guy

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2009, 04:55:22 PM »
I work in the government and and only do what is absolutely necessary.  We can deal with the cam chain question when the title of the post is revised... ;D

or are you serious and not pulling my leg?

spwg
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Offline TheHun

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2009, 05:02:55 PM »
This is what I did and worked great.

1.    Crank engine to T 1-4 mark and adjust both rocker arms on cylinder 1

2.    Crank engine  360 degrees and adjust both rocker arms on cylinder 4

3.    Crank engine to T 2-3 mark and adjust both rocker arms on cylinder 2

4.    Crank engine  360 degrees and adjust both rocker arms on cylinder 3
1978 Honda CB750-K

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Offline pablo78cb550

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2009, 05:29:34 PM »
no i was serious, because i know its suppose to be adjusted after the other. right?
Bikes in hand:
1977 Yamaha XS650
1978 Yamaha SR500 #119!
1978 Yamaha XS400
1978 Honda CB550K
1965 Ducati Monza 250

Sold off:
1992 Yamaha FZR600
1978 Yamaha SR500- I miss it so much.
1981 Yamaha Seca 550

Offline Steve F

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2009, 05:39:35 PM »
Just my $0.02 worth here, but I try not to turn the crank using the nut on the ignition points side (especially if the plugs are still in).  You have to remember that there is only 3mm(?) pin attaching that nut to the crankshaft through the advancer unit.  I've seen the hole in the crankshaft that the pin goes into getting damaged from this practice.  Break the pin off and you're looking for a new advancer.

Offline friedfish80

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2009, 05:40:43 PM »
thanks all. Got them done. They were all out of whack and had to really watch what was opening and closing to find where to start. There all within speck now. But i went and tried to adjust the cam chain. Now from what i understand the tensioner is spring loaded. Is there suppose to be any kind of sound (from the spring loaded tensioner) or anything to know that the tension is correct?

Yea i know i just hijacked my own tread.


Offline MCRider

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2009, 05:42:10 PM »
no i was serious, because i know its suppose to be adjusted after the other. right?
There is actually another thread with that discussion right now.

But quickly, rotate crank forward to 1-4 TDC mark. Continue forward till the left hand side of the spring post aligns with the crankcase index mark. This is 15 degress after top dead center. It is a point at which Honda has determined that all of the slack is in the back run of the chain and the front run is tight.

Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster bolt. Loosen the adjuster bolt. The spring loaded plunger should move forward pushing the tensioner into the chain. This happens on faith. Your adjuster is assumed to be working porperly, the plunger is free to move forward.

Tighten the bolt, then the lock nut.

If the chain is still noisy, one would suspect the plunger is jambed this happens on older bikes. Loosen the lock nut and bolt. You can stick a nail in the back of the adjuster and it will hit the tail of the plunger. Rotate the engine backward and forwards, the chain will get tight and loose and you should feel the plunger moving in and out, indicating it is freely moving. If not. You must remove the adjuster and service the plunger.

Ta da!
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1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline friedfish80

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2009, 05:48:22 PM »
well im not really in running condition or weather now so i guess ill have to wait to get that dialed in then.



Offline pablo78cb550

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #13 on: March 10, 2009, 05:52:10 PM »
thanks MC
Bikes in hand:
1977 Yamaha XS650
1978 Yamaha SR500 #119!
1978 Yamaha XS400
1978 Honda CB550K
1965 Ducati Monza 250

Sold off:
1992 Yamaha FZR600
1978 Yamaha SR500- I miss it so much.
1981 Yamaha Seca 550

Offline MCRider

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #14 on: March 10, 2009, 06:04:56 PM »
well im not really in running condition or weather now so i guess ill have to wait to get that dialed in then.




Its not done with the engine running. Same static condition as setting the valves. You will want to set it before starting it.
Ride Safe:
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1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline TheHun

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2009, 06:56:07 PM »
Yeah checking the valves periodically is a must...mine were out as much as .005-.006 if not more at some...
1978 Honda CB750-K

CBR F3 Coils
Kerker 4.1 Header w/ turn down
Maxi-Dwell Ignition
Foam Air Filter Pods
Superbike bars
Starter Delete

CARB CLEANING/REBUILD: http://www.wix.com/TheHun/CarbCleaning-Site

Not Running to Running, doing the work yourself= Priceless

Offline friedfish80

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Re: Valve adjustment question
« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2009, 07:07:49 PM »
mine were sitting on top of the valves. couldent get the .002 fealers in there.