Topic: Headlight goes out after 30-45 seconds

[bryanj]

The starter button has 3 wires to it

When ignition is on

Black----------power
Black/red -----power to dip switch when button NOT pressed
Yellow/red----power to starter solenoid when button Is pressed

So if you go into the shell and disconnect the yellow/red where it comes from the switch to the loom and "jumper" the black and black/red (black from loom; black/red from LH switch or loom) you will be able to kick start BUT lights will on all the time the ignition is on

These all connect in the headlamp bucket BUT BE CAREFULL there should be 2 blacks going to the RH switch the other goes to the kill switch and feeds the coils (Black/white out of kill switch) so if you disconnect that it dont go

[Spanner 1]

Mycb... Sorry I just got back on...I believe bryanj has it correctly...hope you were able to sort it out..good luck

[mycb750k6]

OK I'm going to try this and at the risk of sounding pathetically thick, can you clarify the following:

1. disconnect the yellow/red where it comes from the switch to the loom - I assume you mean the right switch here? And what does this disable once I've disconnected it?

2. and "jumper" the black and black/red (black from loom; black/red from LH switch or loom) - OK once again black/red from the left and black from the loom. What are these guys connected to now and what does doing this disable?

Thanks for your patience.

[goon 1492]

was gonna say you lucky dog, mine fell apart(just like your did and mine is a k6 too) when I took it out due to soaking in brake fliud over too many years.... I went for a led switch mounted on the back of the headlight for the head light itself, I put it right in front of the blinker beeper, I then got a heavy duty push button switch for the starter and mounted it at the top of the headlight bucket. All was bought at the autoparts store....
If you look closely you can see the led switch and the starter button, the led lights up blue when the head light is on.

[goon 1492]

My switches are rated at the right amp load too...

[Spanner 1]

Q1...yellow/red goes to the starter relay, so it will disable the starter.
Q2... If you remove the old switch with its 3 wires, the black and black/red you disconnect in the h/l shell ( coming from the main loom ) need to connect together.....in other words remove old starter switch, undo the 3 wires , leave yellow/red ( from loom) as is...put black and black/red together ( ones from loom ).....hope that is clear !!  black to black/red will connect the h/l, which will now come-on with ignition turned 'on'.

[mycb750k6]

Got it, finally. How do you know all this stuff?

[mycb750k6]

Well it's fixed. I bought an old junker right hand switch mechanism on ebay and removed the internal starter push button switch box. It's a self contained switch box in a white  nylon enclosure. It also needed a complete rebuild as the contacts were corroded but the housing was good. It came out of a 78 K model but the white starter switch fit in my 76 housing no problem. It contains two springs, a ball bearing, a brass contact plate and two brass sliders plus three wires, black, black-red and yellow-red. So when you push the button, the lights turn off and the starter is given power and the opposite happens when the starter button is let out. So this little white nylon box containing the starter switch solved my headlight problem and the starter problem. Thanks all for the wiring help folks.

[Spanner 1]

I'm happy you were able to get it back in working order....my bike had a similar problem when I got it, the PO was stumped by it and left the bike under a tarp for 5 years 'cos he couldn't solve it !!