Topic: Sun Damaged Hand Controls

[aggiec05]

What do you guys do to repair your sun damaged handle bar controls?

I have heard krylon fusion, but what else is out there?

[Geeto67]

I assume you are talking about the parkerizing fading? The original finish was parkerizing, which is sometimes refered to as gun blue or gun black because it is used as a finish on guns as well. Some gun shops stock parkerizing kits to help you redo parts and you could get one of those kits to do all sorts of cool parts on your bike. I am not sure where to get it, a friend of mine who collects rifles had the kit and let me play around with it - it was cool.

Of course the bar controls are aluminum, you could always sand and polish them also.

[Jonesy]

Parkerizing (as well as Bluing) only works on ferrous metals. I believe the handlebar control pods were anodized black.

[TwoTired]

Parkerizing is an electrochemical surface conversion process that doesn't work on aluminum surfaces, only ferrous ones.  The black ones found on my Honda 750s and 550s were originally black anodized.  This, in essence, is chemically forcing the aluminum surface to oxidize, while introducing a Black Dye.  Other color dyes can be used, as well.  Sunlight bleaches these dyes out, leaving the oxidation coating clear or ever lighter shades of grey during the bleaching process.  The finish can be repeated at facilities that do anodizing of aluminum.  But, the red accents painted in the indentations will also have to be renewed, if you want the original look.

I've also heard that later model bikes had painted controls. I haven't seen any, though.  I don't know of any home applied paints that will resist brake fluid attacks like anodizing will.  

Since you don't say which bike you are addressing, you probably won't get a specific answer.

Cheers,

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

The anodizing information is good to know. Thanks guys. I have been collecting nos parts for a frame up restore and was trying to come up with a solution. New right hand controls are available but left ones are not. Not sure if master cylinders are but I doubt it. Using new pieces is always an option but an EXPENSIVE option. Looks like I'll find someone to anodize.

My other thought was to do a light powder coat and continue using DOT5 fluid which is kind to paint. Wouldn't be an accurate resto this way so I'm glad I can avoid this. I know some of the guys are not DOT5 fans but it's working great in my 750F as well as my Harley. 

[dusterdude]

i love it

[Jinxracing]

The anodizing information is good to know. Thanks guys. I have been collecting nos parts for a frame up restore and was trying to come up with a solution. New right hand controls are available but left ones are not. Not sure if master cylinders are but I doubt it. Using new pieces is always an option but an EXPENSIVE option. Looks like I'll find someone to anodize.

I was looking into home anodizing awhile back and decided against it...can only handle so many projects.  One thing I learned though was that while most commercial anodizing these days is UV protected against fading, it's not always the case...especially if you go with a smaller operation. Just something to keep in mind if you decide to go with anodizing.

[cafehonda]

The anodizing information is good to know. Thanks guys. I have been collecting nos parts for a frame up restore and was trying to come up with a solution. New right hand controls are available but left ones are not. Not sure if master cylinders are but I doubt it. Using new pieces is always an option but an EXPENSIVE option. Looks like I'll find someone to anodize.

My other thought was to do a light powder coat and continue using DOT5 fluid which is kind to paint. Wouldn't be an accurate resto this way so I'm glad I can avoid this. I know some of the guys are not DOT5 fans but it's working great in my 750F as well as my Harley. 

DOT5 fluid picks up moisture faster than DOT3 so keep an eye on the color. If the fluid starts to go dark, change it or the moisture will attack the chrome in the brake piston.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

"DOT5 fluid picks up moisture faster than DOT3 so keep an eye on the color. If the fluid starts to go dark, change it or the moisture will attack the chrome in the brake piston."

I'm also a BIG Speed Bleeder fan. Put these on and flush your system every year. Piece of cake !! Then you won't have to worry about contaminated fluid, sticky calipers, etc

[SWEETPEAUK]

I've had my 400/4 ones redone and will try to pick them up Monday. Will post pic's.
With the better dye's now they should still look good in 6 months.
Also living in England  they only have to suffer 2-3 week's a year sun bleaching.

[736cc]

nos lh controls are available on ebay

[SWEETPEAUK]

Pick up bit's today and glad to report that they can be redone to a good standard. On a mirror polished surface the coating comes out a nice satin finish. Only the Master cylinder cap had a gloss finish, this due to different casting method. Levers are for my GS1000 before any one ask's. 

Points to note if you plan to have a go.

1 Right hand control has kill switch circult that has to be un soldered and re soldered.

2 Be very careful when polishing the word " START" it is engraved very lightly and will polish out very quickly, Tip is to use Scriber and scratch out lettering, this also makes it easy for later painting, Do it be before getting them coated, If you try to do them after sod's law say's the scriber will slip and put a big scratch on the switch .

3 The coating is only 5 micron thick. any scratches and damage will not be filled by the dye. all over smooth is better than high polish and dents.

4  The paint I plan to use for the lettering is by Vallejo 70956 Light Orange. It's a Matt Acrylic and can be found in Model shops in 17Ml bottles.

[Reagan]

SweetPeaUK,
How much did the anodizing cost? Did you do all the prep work?