Author Topic: Re: Master Cylinder Finish  (Read 1478 times)

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Offline Terry in Australia

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Re: Master Cylinder Finish
« on: October 11, 2005, 08:42:40 PM »
Has anyone ever powdercoated one?  The K7 and K8 is painted.

I found a real cheap powdercoater when I restored a Kawasaki Z750 many years ago, he did mainly security doors and also did on site sand and bead blasting, anyway, he was so cheap I had him not only powdercoat my frame, but just about everything that hangs off it, including the brake master cylinders and calipers too.

It took a fair bit of prep to ensure no grit or p/c got into these items, but the end result was that they looked like brand new, and worked very well too. Just be careful with your prep if you choose this method, powdercoated threads are a pain to clean up! Cheers, Terry. ;D
I was feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't afford new bike boots, until I met a man with no legs.

So I said, "Hey mate, you haven't got any bike boots you don't need, do you?"

"Crazy is a very misunderstood term, it's a fine line that some of us can lean over and still keep our balance" (thanks RB550Four)

Offline jaknight

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Re: Master Cylinder Finish
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2005, 10:35:20 PM »
Anodized aluminum is used a lot in the aircraft and aerospace industry.  It can be done electrically and it can be done strictly using chemicals.  The electrical process generally produces better results.  Both give results dependent on how well the aluminum is prepared before the chemical or electrical "baths."  You can achieve highly polished and "shiny" finishes if the aluminum is properly polished before the anodize process is begun.  Even cast aluminum, not just aluminum sheets, can turn out bright finishes of any color, depending on the aluminum alloy the casting was composed of (e.g., 6061, 2024, 5052, 7075 series aluminum).  Some firearms frames are anodized aluminum, ala Smith & Wesson, Ruger, and many more.  With proper buffing to produce the micro finish desired, the most important step is a deep, long chemical etch just before the anodize process begins. It does make aluminum more corrosion resistant, though severe repeated contamination will eat through the anodize.  I have seen aluminum framed handguns that were more than 50 years old that still looked bright and shiny.  And I have seen aircraft parts that were 1 week old that looked like hell because they were improperly done to start with ~ ~ just my 2 cents ~ ~ jaknight
"THE PEN IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD........
..........EXCEPT IN A SWORD FIGHT"
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Offline jaknight

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Re: Master Cylinder Finish
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2005, 10:41:07 PM »
Bob, a P.S. for you.  You can put a clear topcoat on your anodized cylinder.  It will help it. ~ ~ jaknight ;D
"THE PEN IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD........
..........EXCEPT IN A SWORD FIGHT"
___________________________________________
"There is nothing new under the sun.........But there are many old things we do not know"
BIBLE ---> Basic Instructions Before Leaving Earth

Offline Terry in Australia

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Re: Master Cylinder Finish
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2005, 01:13:42 AM »
Bob, a P.S. for you.  You can put a clear topcoat on your anodized cylinder.  It will help it. ~ ~ jaknight ;D

Hey Jak, do you know a clear topcoat to go over Bob's anodized M/C that is resistant to brake fluid? I think that might be the rub............ Cheers, Terry. ;D
I was feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't afford new bike boots, until I met a man with no legs.

So I said, "Hey mate, you haven't got any bike boots you don't need, do you?"

"Crazy is a very misunderstood term, it's a fine line that some of us can lean over and still keep our balance" (thanks RB550Four)

Offline Terry in Australia

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Re: Master Cylinder Finish
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2005, 01:55:44 PM »
When I restored my CB350F I painted my M/C with VHT caliper paint, and so as not to damage the paint, paid 50 bucks for a bottle of silicone brake fluid, which still managed to remove some of the paint when it dribbled over the MC.

I wouldn't bother going through that again, I think I'll either get them chromed or re-anodised in future, and just use dot 4 fluid, and "Damn the Torpedoes"! Cheers, Terry. ;D
I was feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't afford new bike boots, until I met a man with no legs.

So I said, "Hey mate, you haven't got any bike boots you don't need, do you?"

"Crazy is a very misunderstood term, it's a fine line that some of us can lean over and still keep our balance" (thanks RB550Four)

Offline cb(r)

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Re: Master Cylinder Finish
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2005, 07:47:58 AM »
hey guys  check out <eastwood.com>  they have all kinds of coatings, electroplating stuff and even brake caliper paint. there is not many thing impervious to brake fluid but if you anodize properly you should not have any problems.  all it does is accelerate growth and depth of an aluminum oxide layer.   this naturally occurs as soon as you scratch a piece of aluminum.  this is oxidation of aluminum is like rust on steel.  it's that,  aluminum oxide will not eat thru aluminum like rust (oxidation) of steel.  so it is actually not an outside coating. like paint, plating  or powder coating.  it is aluminum rust.  as to its hardness.  check out  your grinding wheel it is a good chance it is made of aluminum oxide.  some more useless info that might be interesting