Author Topic: Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer (Read 14464 times)

Sporkfly · « **on:** March 23, 2009, 12:40:22 PM »

Alright guys, so who has the tool for this damn thing or a good (and simple) improvisation? I've wrestled with it a little using some brass and a hammer with no success, partially because I didn't want to do too much damage. I suppose I just want some tips for rear wheel bearings on the CB550. There's plenty of info I found on the front bearings so I shouldn't have a problem with that, but rear bearings seem to have less info available (or I'm just not using proper search terms).

Anyway! Removing that bearing retainer on the brake hub side on a CB550?

MCRider · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2009, 12:59:37 PM »

Quote from: Sporkfly on March 23, 2009, 12:40:22 PM

Alright guys, so who has the tool for this damn thing or a good (and simple) improvisation? I've wrestled with it a little using some brass and a hammer with no success, partially because I didn't want to do too much damage. I suppose I just want some tips for rear wheel bearings on the CB550. There's plenty of info I found on the front bearings so I shouldn't have a problem with that, but rear bearings seem to have less info available (or I'm just not using proper search terms).

Anyway! Removing that bearing retainer on the brake hub side on a CB550?

First you have to run a drill bit down where the dimples are on the threads to break the "locking" effect.

next, search on the site for "pin spanners" many of us have made them McGiver like from odds and ends. Tips and Tricks forum I think. Try this: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40052.0

mrblasty · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2009, 01:26:51 PM »

hammer two nails through a piece of wood at the same spacing as the pin holes on the retainer, as said on the previous post drill out the locking dimple, insert new tool and twist. I got the tool idea from tghe site.

stresssolutions · « **Reply #3 on:** March 24, 2009, 08:42:48 AM »

Quote from: mrblasty on March 23, 2009, 01:26:51 PM

hammer two nails through a piece of wood at the same spacing as the pin holes on the retainer, as said on the previous post drill out the locking dimple, insert new tool and twist. I got the tool idea from the site.

What an awesome idea. I built mine from some rod, a washer from my head bearing kit, a flat steel and a big nut. BUT once I drilled the "staked" areas, it spun right out.

DRILL first, then build...because you may not need to get too elaborate.

Sporkfly · « **Reply #4 on:** March 24, 2009, 08:51:56 AM »

How big of a bit and how deep are we talking here?

stresssolutions · « **Reply #5 on:** March 24, 2009, 08:55:39 AM »

same size as the stake, and only about 1/8th-3/16 inch. If you imagine taking a center punch and making the divots in the threads to secure them.....drill that deep to remove that damage.

tlbranth · « **Reply #6 on:** March 24, 2009, 08:57:35 AM »

I don't think you need to do any drilling. I got mine off by holding 2 punches in opposite holes with one hand and turning a long screwdriver between them with the other. If you keep the screwdriver right down close to the retainer, it's easy to hold the punches. Replace the same way.

AK Cafe · « **Reply #7 on:** March 24, 2009, 09:03:50 AM »

just a reminder that you are aware they are left hand threads? turn to the right to loosen AK Cafe

DaytonGuy · « **Reply #8 on:** March 24, 2009, 09:06:35 AM »

On my 77 550K the rear retainer is reverse thread. Make sure you are turning the right way.

Sporkfly · « **Reply #9 on:** March 24, 2009, 09:08:59 AM »

I tried the screw driver and two punch method. Actually it wasn't a screw driver, it was the handle of a 10" crescent wrench with the hole in the end of the handle over one punch and the other end pressed against the other punch. I am aware it's a left hand thread but it wouldn't budge.

Thanks for all the input, I'll grab a drill and a chunk of hardwood with a couple nails through it when I get home. Hopefully I'll have some success...

754 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 24, 2009, 09:17:10 AM »

2 tight fitting pins or drill bits, then clamp betweenjaws of an 18" crescent wrench.works.

I tried getting a front out yesterday, maybe went the wrong way

.. it was biggered anyway, so I put it in the lathe, and machined it out.

Then I chucked the front hub, and CUT OFF ALL THE FINS in the middle.. looks better now..

Johnie · « **Reply #11 on:** March 24, 2009, 10:13:33 AM »

Quote from: tlbranth on March 24, 2009, 08:57:35 AM

I don't think you need to do any drilling. I got mine off by holding 2 punches in opposite holes with one hand and turning a long screwdriver between them with the other. If you keep the screwdriver right down close to the retainer, it's easy to hold the punches. Replace the same way.

The above is how I got it out on my KO. Now my K1 had a different issue. The PO had the chain come off and buggered up the end of the retainer. I could not budge it with the 2 punch method. My friends at the Honda dealership got it off, but the chain damage caused damage to the threads on removal. I now have a new rear drive hub thanks to Western Hills Honda. Installed a new bearing, seal and new retainer ring. Good to go...

tlbranth · « **Reply #12 on:** March 24, 2009, 03:58:02 PM »

Sporkfly - I don't know what model you have but my K0 has a right-hand thread. Also, the screwdriver I used was about 2 ft long. You need a lot of leverage and maybe someone to hold the wheel from turning.

Johnie · « **Reply #13 on:** March 24, 2009, 05:01:36 PM »

That punch and leverage method was OK, but I did break one Craftsman punch and bend another before I had my dealer boys take it out of the K1. Glad they replaced them free. I guess a lot will depend on luck and how tight they were installed.

Bill Vaughan · « **Reply #14 on:** March 24, 2009, 06:06:05 PM »

A flat piece of 1/8" bar stock and two 5/16" bolts will work quite well on the retainer.

Sporkfly · « **Reply #15 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:11:00 PM »

Just following up:

I ended up using an old axe handle with nails in it. The nails bent. I then found a U-bolt with the same spacing as the holes and used the axe handle for leverage on it, worked like a charm.

Anyway, as far as the wheel bearings go - I HIGHLY recommend the pit posse bearing removal tool. Simple and damn slick!

RedBowTies88 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 26, 2015, 08:19:28 AM »

My buddy and I had a hell of a time trying to get that off with a hammer and punch and never did get it. Is mine reverse thread? 76 750k?

Thanks

70CB750 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 26, 2015, 08:25:37 AM »

No, regular right hand thread.

MCRider · « **Reply #18 on:** August 26, 2015, 08:27:19 AM »

Quote from: RedBowTies88 on August 26, 2015, 08:19:28 AM

My buddy and I had a hell of a time trying to get that off with a hammer and punch and never did get it. Is mine reverse thread? 76 750k?

Thanks

No its regular thread. Only the 500/550 has one that is reverse thread. If you've drilled out the factory stake marks, it should turn easily. Scroll up to my previous post. It has a link in it to several DIY pin wrenches. The flat bar with two small bolts in it is my favorite.

Powderman · « **Reply #19 on:** August 26, 2015, 06:20:46 PM »

The biggest mistake made here is most often the stakes are not drilled deep enough. When it is staked it deforms more rows of threads than most people realize. Use an 1/8" drill and drill at least half way through the retainer and it should then spin out with ease.

NobleHops · « **Reply #20 on:** August 26, 2015, 09:50:13 PM »

If you do this project with any regularity then I highly recommend that you get this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5JMEA

It works perfectly on any retainer of this type, every time.

And I emphatically disagree with the poster saying it was not necessary to drill out the staked spot. Yes, you can gorilla out the retainers, but the burrs on it can and will tear up the soft aluminum of the hub, and put you in a world of misery. It takes 30 careful seconds to drill 3/16 or less down in the staked spots, and then the retainers come out easily without damage, and can be reused.

If you drill, and use the OTC tool or an equivalent (a good homemade is obviously fine) that won't oval or mangle the holes, this is a simple task and you can reuse the parts.

MCRider · « **Reply #21 on:** August 27, 2015, 02:46:24 AM »

Quote from: NobleHops on August 26, 2015, 09:50:13 PM

If you do this project with any regularity then I highly recommend that you get this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5JMEA

It works perfectly on any retainer of this type, every time.

And I emphatically disagree with the poster saying it was not necessary to drill out the staked spot. Yes, you can gorilla out the retainers, but the burrs on it can and will tear up the soft aluminum of the hub, and put you in a world of misery. It takes 30 careful seconds to drill 3/16 or less down in the staked spots, and then the retainers come out easily without damage, and can be reused.

If you drill, and use the OTC tool or an equivalent (a good homemade is obviously fine) that won't oval or mangle the holes, this is a simple task and you can reuse the parts.

Carpy made some dedicated pin spanners by welding up a socket with a doodad on it to engage the notches, and had them chromed. They are on his website. It can be driven with a 3/8 ratchet.

But the variable OTC tool is certainly more elegant.

70CB750 · « **Reply #22 on:** August 27, 2015, 04:28:17 AM »

I saw somewhere tool made out of piece of flat steel and spring pins - copied that idea.

It works well and you can always drill another hole for a different retainer.

70CB750 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 27, 2015, 04:29:16 AM »

But the original is for sale here:

http://www.cb750cafe.com/blog/for-sale-blog/new-wheel-bearing-retainer-wrench-for-k-and-f-series-sohc/

MCRider · « **Reply #24 on:** August 27, 2015, 05:51:47 AM »

That's nice. Here's the ones I mentioned:
http://www.cb750cafe.com/products-page/wheel-bearing-retainer-socket-front-s-o-h-c/
http://www.cb750cafe.com/products-page/rear-wheel-retainer-removal-tool/

Pricier.

Mine was of the Flat strap aluminum with 2 small bolts variety. $3

70CB750 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 27, 2015, 06:05:17 AM »

Those are fa-a-ncy

NobleHops · « **Reply #26 on:** August 27, 2015, 07:51:45 AM »

The Carpy tool costs $36 (with shipping to AZ from CA). The OTC tool is $56 and will fit ANY retainer of this type (Amazon Prime for me, so I am not including shipping). Not bickering, just providing data.

N.

RedBowTies88 · « **Reply #27 on:** August 27, 2015, 12:04:16 PM »

Thanks guys. When I reinstall the retainer do I have to do anything special to be sure it is secure?

MCRider · « **Reply #28 on:** August 27, 2015, 01:12:33 PM »

Quote from: RedBowTies88 on August 27, 2015, 12:04:16 PM

Thanks guys. When I reinstall the retainer do I have to do anything special to be sure it is secure?

You take a center punch and place it where the threads meet and smack it with a hammer to emulate the factory staking.

Twice is enough 180deg apart.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #29 on:** August 29, 2015, 12:42:19 AM »

This did the trick for me

PeWe · « **Reply #30 on:** August 29, 2015, 01:19:11 AM »

I destroyed my retainer completely at last bearing replacement. It seems I did not drill enough. I did too good punches last time.
What happen if retainer is not locked?
Bearing is hold in place with a sleeve as on the brake side without retainer.

NobleHops · « **Reply #31 on:** August 29, 2015, 05:44:58 AM »

Quote from: PeWe on August 29, 2015, 01:19:11 AM

I destroyed my retainer completely at last bearing replacement. It seems I did not drill enough. I did too good punches last time.
What happen if retainer is not locked?
Bearing is hold in place with a sleeve as on the brake side without retainer.

It can back out, and when it does it will bind, destroy itself, and generate a ton of heat which may damage other stuff. Don't mess about with this, punch it.

JWExperience · « **Reply #32 on:** August 29, 2015, 01:13:32 PM »

I read on a previous thread that some just use loctite, is this not good enough?

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Author Topic: Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer (Read 14464 times)

AK Cafe

JWExperience