Topic: Stainless Steel brake line?

[srook]

Does anyone have a source for stainless braided brake lines for a CB750?  I want the lower line to have a fitting that will allow it to screw directly into the caliper without the pipe.  Anyone done this?
Thanks
Scott

[HavocTurbo]

Are you looking for direct replacements or universal?

[alltherightpills]

I brought my entire brake system into a local hydraulics and custom hose shop and had one custom made.  I am still using the hard line into the caliper, but I am sure that if you had a hose shop in your area, you could bring in your caliper and they could find the right fitting.

[grumpy]

I did it.
SS line from the brake light switch on the fork straight into the caliper
Check Z1
http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=MFGO0

This goes on the caliper in place of the hard line fitting:
Your new brake line screws onto it.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3349

[srook]

Grumpy,
Thats exactly what I'm looking for.  Did you remove the "barb?" from where the line screws into the caliper or does the concave side of that fitting seal against it?  On my caliper the "barb?" has been removed so the male to male adapter has to seal against the inside of the hole.  Easy to picture hard to explain.

[Speed King]

Anybody have any pics with this job done? I'm going to do the same thing when I get it figured out.

[grumpy]

... Easy to picture hard to explain.

Sorry, don't know what you mean 
Check pp 68-71 of the K3/4/5 parts list. Is your barb shown on there anyplace?

That adapter screws right into the caliper on my bike...
One thing - The adapter is slightly longer than the depth of the hole. I had to stack 2 crush washers under the flange of the adapter to keep it from bottoming out.

I meant to take a photo last night - got busy - sorry
 

[BeSeeingYou]

... Easy to picture hard to explain.

Sorry, don't know what you mean 
Check pp 68-71 of the K3/4/5 parts list. Is your barb shown on there anyplace?

That adapter screws right into the caliper on my bike...
One thing - The adapter is slightly longer than the depth of the hole. I had to stack 2 crush washers under the flange of the adapter to keep it from bottoming out.

I meant to take a photo last night - got busy - sorry

Isn't the adapter supposed to bottom out in the caliper inlet to make the seal?  I can't see that end of the fitting in the picture but I assumed it would be a flare type.  Something like this -))-  the left side being the inside of the caliper inlet and the right the end of the fitting.  Is it designed to seal with a washer instead? 
 

[Frankenkit]

I got all my parts at the local Harley shop. They have diff. lengths just sitting on a display.

[MCRider]

... Easy to picture hard to explain.

Sorry, don't know what you mean 
Check pp 68-71 of the K3/4/5 parts list. Is your barb shown on there anyplace?

That adapter screws right into the caliper on my bike...
One thing - The adapter is slightly longer than the depth of the hole. I had to stack 2 crush washers under the flange of the adapter to keep it from bottoming out.

I meant to take a photo last night - got busy - sorry

Isn't the adapter supposed to bottom out in the caliper inlet to make the seal?  I can't see that end of the fitting in the picture but I assumed it would be a flare type.  Something like this -))-  the left side being the inside of the caliper inlet and the right the end of the fitting.  Is it designed to seal with a washer instead? 
 

Depends on the adapter and which hole you want to screw it in. One hole is like you describe with the flares, one hole takes like a banjo bolt and washer, like Grumpy describes. Either can work.

[srook]

I will try to explain what I mean.  On the CB750 caliper there are 2 threaded openings, one for the brake line and the other for the bleeder screw.  Inside the hole for the brakeline is a pressed in flare for the brake line to seal against.  It looks like this -) and the flare in the line bottoms on it creating a seal -))-.  I removed the pressed in flare because I am doing a dual disk setup and this would have put the bleeder on the wrong side.  So my threaded hole for the brake pipe is now concaved just like the bleeder side.  It looks like this (  So I need an adapter that has flares on both ends to get a good seal.  The adapter needs to look like this (///[]///) rather than )///[]///).  It is the flare in the fitting that seals and not the flat otherwise the stock line into the caliper would have a sealing washer on it.  Same for the bleed screw.  Sorry I don't have pictures.  Does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the bleed screw and brake pipe nut?
Thanks
Scott

[WrightStuff]

Does anyone have a source for stainless braided brake lines for a CB750?  I want the lower line to have a fitting that will allow it to screw directly into the caliper without the pipe.  Anyone done this?
Thanks
Scott

I'm looking for the same, just sent an email to: http://www.cyclebrakes.com. I'd like to find a turn key kit made for a 550 K0...  When I hear back I'll post results from them.

[MCRider]

I will try to explain what I mean.  On the CB750 caliper there are 2 threaded openings, one for the brake line and the other for the bleeder screw.  Inside the hole for the brakeline is a pressed in flare for the brake line to seal against.  It looks like this -) and the flare in the line bottoms on it creating a seal -))-.  I removed the pressed in flare because I am doing a dual disk setup and this would have put the bleeder on the wrong side.  So my threaded hole for the brake pipe is now concaved just like the bleeder side.  It looks like this (  So I need an adapter that has flares on both ends to get a good seal.  The adapter needs to look like this (///[]///) rather than )///[]///).  It is the flare in the fitting that seals and not the flat otherwise the stock line into the caliper would have a sealing washer on it.  Same for the bleed screw.  Sorry I don't have pictures.  Does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the bleed screw and brake pipe nut?
Thanks
Scott

I'm fairly certain I understand what you are saying. All I am saying is that there exists a combination of parts (my experience is with CB750 K0 to K2) in which a circumstance will arise like Grumpy discusses. That is, a certain type of adapter exists that screws into the caliper and seals like a banjo bolt, with a sealing washer. And if the adapter is too long, 2 sealing washers will be required.

Remember that the K3 and later calipers are different. So we don't really know what everyone has here.

The diameters of the fittings changed too IIRC. 10mm for K0 to K2, 8mm thereafter, OCICBW.

[MCRider]

Does anyone have a source for stainless braided brake lines for a CB750?  I want the lower line to have a fitting that will allow it to screw directly into the caliper without the pipe.  Anyone done this?
Thanks
Scott

yes I have done this on K0 to K2 calipers. A good source is Z1, though I don't know if they can help you. Straight in, no banjos.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx

Around Indy, you just roll into Cycle Outfitters, tell them what you want, wait an hour and roll out.

My first setup I made in 1980 I went to an automotive brake shop "downtown" and they made what i wanted.

[BeSeeingYou]

I have a 76 750F and the caliper has flare fittings for both bleed and inlet ports.  The inlet port is the same diameter and thread pitch as the bolts for the banjo fittings.  10mm diameter and the bleed screw is 7mm diameter.  They are not the same thread pitch.  Seems like a 10 and a 12 but I am not positive.

[WrightStuff]

Does anyone have a source for stainless braided brake lines for a CB750?  I want the lower line to have a fitting that will allow it to screw directly into the caliper without the pipe.  Anyone done this?
Thanks
Scott

I'm looking for the same, just sent an email to: http://www.cyclebrakes.com. I'd like to find a turn key kit made for a 550 K0...  When I hear back I'll post results from them.

I ended up getting the lines from South Bay Cyles, see post here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44823.msg520010#msg520010

[Speed King]

Anybody got pics of the job done?

[Accolay]

Try HEL USA. I think they can do whatever you want.

[WHALEMAN]

I like the look of a banjo right to the caliper. Requires removal of the little cone inside but that it easy. Dan

[J.Webster Designs]

Can anyone tell me how to remove that cone? and possibly what size banjo bolt is needed to go into the caliper?

[phillip56]

Hi Folk,
My name is Phillip Troop and I have a small powder coating shop. I'm going to be building DOT approved stainless brake lines.  The will be made with stainless banjo fittings as well.  The process will be ready by the middle of next week. I've got lines to copy for the 550's and hopefully the other soon.  I'm in Canada so shipping for a set of lines should be in the 15.00 dollar range and the cost for a set of lines will be around 60.00-70.00 for the front  set.  I can do custom length lines as well. The line is either clear coated or a dark tinted line. If anyone is interest send me a pm or you can send a message through my website www.classic-cycle.ca.

[WHALEMAN]

Best way to remove the cone is to take a #8 or #6 finish nail and cut off the pointed end so it is short enough to go inside the caliper and push up through the cone. The finish nail head will catch on the cone. Grab with a plier and pull out. I can not remember the thread size but do a search for "speedbleeder" and it will be the same size thread as the required speedbleeder. Dan

[OldSchool_IsCool]

I'm pretty sure a standard 10 x 1.25 banjo bolt will work.  Test it by using the bolt from the master cylinder.

[WrightStuff]

Anybody got pics of the job done?

I think you mean sans the pipe right? I used the hard line but here's how the braided steel turned out, very happy.

Before:


After:

[ev0lution7]

i got mine from Z1 and i couldnt be happier!1!

[GammaFlat]

I think you mean sans the pipe right? I used the hard line but here's how the braided steel turned out, very happy.

WrightStuff and ev0lution7... did you folks notice a firmer feel or better braking? 

Thanks,

John

[ev0lution7]

well yes and NO

i rebuilt my M/C and put a new SS piston in my caliper along with a new piston O-ring and EBC Kevlar pads...

it feels actually VERY NICE feel to the brakes... it along with the progressive springs are AWESOME i feel totally confident stopping over and over in the city and floggin in the mountians!!!

[GammaFlat]

well yes and NO
i rebuilt my M/C and put a new SS piston in my caliper along with a new piston O-ring and EBC Kevlar pads...
it feels actually VERY NICE feel to the brakes... it along with the progressive springs are AWESOME i feel totally confident stopping over and over in the city and floggin in the mountians!!!

What's the "no" part?  I'm considering stainless lines on my K6 (and maybe then my K7 and K8 to get better stopping..

[ev0lution7]

ok here is the deal:

your making a race horse out of a JACKASS... bottom line...

SS lines wont fix your bad worn out parts....

you need to make sure you M/C is good!
make sure you Caliper is in good shape!
make your caliper pivot is greased well!!
DE-Glaze your ROTOR!!! OR better yet EBC Rotor's (floating and drilled)
Drill your stock rotor!!!
get EBC Kevlar pads!!!

see there is more to good front end braking also replacing your M/C with the correct RATIO to caliper size...

there are lots of improvements to be made also front tire condition make a HUGE difference... like i said springs made a VERY VERY VERY large difference in front end "feel"

[MCRider]

Can't help with specifics, but running the SS braid straight into the caliper is the cleanest thing to do, IMO, its done all the time.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Ypu might find this thread helpful.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=29615.0