Seriously, Lloyd. It takes all of about ten seconds to replace an in-line filter.
Seriously, Gordon, how can you know how every inline filter was installed or implemented? For example, it takes more than ten seconds to unscrew a single screw clamp. How could you reasonably assume that no in line filter would incorporate one of these in its installation?
Even if it WAS just ten seconds. It is still ten seconds diverted away from something more productive or enjoyable.
Added maintenance has always been your biggest argument against them, and it remains a very weak one at that.
Stating that it's weak doesn't make it so. It is added maintenance, non-zero cost, and unnecessary complexity, if you insist on defining it so.
I've never been one who feels I need more filtration than the stock filter provides, but when given the option of ordering and waiting for a stock replacement, or just going down the street and picking up an in-line filter that will work just as well, I go for option 2.
I've already explained how it doesn't work as well as the in tank type by virtue of its root principle of operation. It is your choice to reject that if that is your whim.
I agree with you that adding an in-line filter is not a good replacement for having a clean, rust-free tank, and I've never advocated them as such. On the contrary, a stock filter sock will allow you to ride much, much longer with a large amount of debris in your tank than an in-line filter will. So in reality, the choice is between two different types of maintenance/upkeep, and has nothing to do with whether or not you're a "competent enough mechanic". Insults like that don't help further your position, by the way, but I don't think you care.
There was no insult intended. It was a simple statement referring to the range of mechanical ability present within the forum's population. I rather resent you twisting my words to your own purposes. Are you implying that adding an inline filter makes a mechanic competent? All I meant was that if the mechanic understands the fuel system function, they can decide for themselves if they can make fuel delivery modifications with the correct impact. You can evaluate yourself as you desire. I'm not making any assessment on specific individuals. Conversely, if you are arguing that anyone who posts here is automatically an expert mechanic, you clearly haven't read where new posters have proclaimed themselves deficient in mechanical ability. While not exactly incompetent, an experienced mechanic could not remain in business if they had to rebuild the same carbs for the same customer 3 or 4 times. I rather think any customer would evaluate such action as incompetent, particularly if they had to pay 3 or 4 times the cost of doing just one carb overhaul. Have you read any posts about rebuilding carbs lately?
However, if the same rationale applied to additional fuel filters, were the same as other aspects of the MC, do you add or replace air filters? Are two pods in series better than just one, just for added cheap insurance?
If your tach goes defective, do you place another one that works correctly right next to it, or on top of it?
If you break a rear view mirror, do you just add another one that works and leave the broken one in place? To me, this is the same ideology of adding in-line fuel filters.
However, if for some reason, one is not able or willing to fix or repair the intank or petcock type of fuel filter, in-lines are the next best thing, if sized correctly, and implemented compatibly with gravity feed systems.
I'm curious: how often do you remove your petcock to inspect the filter to make sure it's doing its job? How long does the procedure take?
Depends on the type. I usually only have to do the inside type once during a refurb and never again. The petcocks with the sediment bowls and screen, I attend to every three or four years, I guess. Unscrew the bowl, look at the contents, flush with some brake kleener, look at the screen, remove if necessary and clean, but usually just re install the sediment bowl and check for leaks. 2-3 minutes, I guess.
The in-tank types don't need to be removed routinely. Just look in the tank when the fuel level is low. If you see debris in there, then flush the tank while it is inverted, I suppose. Never had that problem after a refurb, though.
Cheers,
