Wow.. I like this ebay guy's video (I plan on doing similar stuff for my projects to post on the forum) and I'd be very tempted to put one of those MC's on my bike. Someone else on the forum used that MC (it looks like the same one to me anyway - I thought I remember it being one of our female members... the one that sold manuals and docs) and they were singing it's praises. I'd really like to know how this turns out.
The 2 things that might change the "hardness" or distance of travel of the brake lever are 1) the diameter of the piston which appears the same as a Honda (about 14 mm) and the mechanical advantage of the hand lever (length of lever and distance from lever point to "piston pushing point").
If it feels real hard but is not stopping you, I'd be looking at the brake pad surface (have they had brake fluid or fork fluid on them? I hear that's not real good) and if the rotor is glazed. Beyond that, it's brake lines and it sounds like you have that covered. I'd love to go with one stainless line from MC to caliper and this MC has a switch (nice!) which avoids the need for the "brake linis interruptus" with the factory brake light switch and all associated hardware. Having said all this, I understand that large changes in brake performance can be problematic - (cause you to crash). It's happened with folks on this forum. Beeeeeee careful.
I'd also like to find out what's required in making that thing black - scuff and paint?. I imagine you'd need brake fluid resistant additive in the paint (how come the tanks don't have that stuff
).
One more question before I go
... Sorry, it doesn't seem that I've answered your question well. Does this MC have good accessibility to inexpensive rebuild kits?
This is a Honda piston. Ruler's not even with the end, but you get the idea. The ebay listing says 14mm piston which I think we can pretty safely say is the same.
