Author Topic: Help with starter button (pictures added) (Read 3233 times)

andy8190 · « **on:** March 31, 2009, 05:26:28 PM »

so i took my handlebars off because i got new euro bars and i was pulling the switches off and i think i broke something. the starter switch doesnt seem to work now. does anyone have pics of the insides? i broke off this little metal tab that i will take a pic of and post. Please i dont want to lose my starter switch any help would be great

so this is the broken tab i found in the controls, does anyone know what it goes to?

andy8190 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 31, 2009, 05:50:55 PM »

and here is my solder job, does this look ok?

martino1972 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 31, 2009, 05:54:30 PM »

looks like you didn't have enough heat in the gun to make a nice flowing solder.......

TwoTired · « **Reply #3 on:** March 31, 2009, 05:58:41 PM »

Quote from: andy8190 on March 31, 2009, 05:50:55 PM

and here is my solder job, does this look ok?

Classic cold solder joint.

Also, looks like you didn't clean the surfaces, or allow the flux to help clean off oxidation either.

andy8190 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:00:32 PM »

im a newbie at soldering, will they work? also does the controls have to be grounded to the handlebars for the starter button to work or should the button work while the controls are not on the bar?

TwoTired · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:07:57 PM »

Might help if we knew which bike you are working on....

andy8190 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:13:52 PM »

sorry i forgot 1974 cb550k

andy8190 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:20:00 PM »

any idea what that broken tab piece is from?

TwoTired · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:24:01 PM »

The button should work regardless of bar mounting. But, you have to have the trans in neutral or the clutch pulled in. Key switch on, of course.

You may have just glued the wire onto that metal bar with the flux, which is not conductive. Can you pull it off?

I don't know about that tab piece. It was probably a strain relief/clamp for the wires, so the solder joints don't take stress. Just a guess though, really.

andy8190 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:48:32 PM »

i finished working for the night, i will try pulling the wires off tomorrow and see if they come off. The tran was in neutral so that wasnt the problem and switch was on. I am not sure i have a very good soldering iron because i got it at harbor freights, and i dont really even know the proper way to solder the wires to the metal plates. Any link on here that anyone knows of that can show me how or can someone just give me advice through a reply?

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:59:38 PM »

Neither of those wires can touch the handlebars or the control casing...otherwise starter will be engaged all the time..I think you need to undo the mounting screw and re-solder the green/red off the control (i.e. on the bench ), first brighten the piece and 'tin' it with a good hot iron ( let solder flow on it ) do the same to the wire ( tin ) separately , then hold them together and apply the iron until the solder on each piece melts together...hold very still until solder cools...do the same with the other wire, then maybe coat the connections with liquid electrical tape to insulate and ensure they cannot come in contact with anything when installed back in the casing and on the handlebars. Good luck, you can do it !
P.S....before you start, get the iron hot and 'tin' the tip with solder ( very imp. ) not a 'blob', give the tip a quick wipe to remove excess , must be just a coat of solder...then get to work heating the piece until solder will 'run' on it.....I think you got it !!

andy8190 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:01:49 PM »

ok that makes sense, But if the two wires can not touch does that mean that the 2 metal plates they attach to cant touch either? Because i know for a fact mine are touching

I wish someone had pictures out there of this

fang · « **Reply #12 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:05:02 PM »

Can you jumper the wires and to engage the starter -- or in other words, have you verified that the starter/starter solenoid is working?
-steve

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:06:29 PM »

No touchy until button pressed only !
Looking at it again , it's missing half of the switch...wire does not connect to the plate , which is just a retaining plate and not part of the sw. at all !...I'm afraid more little pieces must have fallen-out when taken apart..oops, maybe someone has a pic.....

andy8190 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:08:41 PM »

the starter button was working fine until i took the controls out of the handlebars and when i opened up the controls i noticed the green/red wire was not connected so i soldered it back on. While i was doing that i figured i might as well do the yellow/red one as well. When i finished putting it all back together it doesnt turn the starter anymore.

andy8190 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:09:37 PM »

i am not sure how to jumper them but if you tell me i can try it haha.

can anyone give me a verbal description on how things are supposed to work/look in there so i know i put it back together right?

78 k550 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:19:12 PM »

bike still in neutral? didnt get kicked in gear by accident.

Paul

andy8190 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:21:26 PM »

99 percent positive it was in neutral.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:21:43 PM »

The two wires touch together when you press the button and cause the starter solenoid to pass hot to the starter...I don't see how it ( the button set-up ) can work..it's not all there..if you touch the wires together, ign. on and bike in N, it should start/turn-over...if you want to test that.

andy8190 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:24:07 PM »

.I don't see how it ( the button set-up ) can work..it's not all there..

that part didnt make a whole lot of sense to me

Don R · « **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:31:31 PM »

It's a wierd part I didn't understand how mine worked either but when I re-assembled it after replacing the broken pin it worked fine. On mine the piece that goes into the button had a little pin sticking out of it, it goes inside the spring. the pin was broken off. I had another broken switch with that part so I combined then into one that worked. The headlight contacts could stand to be cleaned. A little sandpaper or scotchbrite followed by a little di-electric grease does wonders.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:33:52 PM »

Can't work like it is...what happened to Two Tired.. he's got 6 x 550's ( yes 6) and knows the start button very well I would say....to me tho' the button sw. should be contained in a little white box...not exposed soldered connections..I dunno in a 550.

andy8190 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:36:51 PM »

if i am reading things right i can just look at the horn button and see how it is supposed to be set up.

If that doesnt work i may wire in a momentary push button from radioshack or somewhere. I am correct in they must be normally on and switch of kind? or is that backwards

andy8190 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:39:12 PM »

Quote from: Don R on March 31, 2009, 07:31:31 PM

It's a wierd part I didn't understand how mine worked either but when I re-assembled it after replacing the broken pin it worked fine. On mine the piece that goes into the button had a little pin sticking out of it, it goes inside the spring. the pin was broken off. I had another broken switch with that part so I combined then into one that worked. The headlight contacts could stand to be cleaned. A little sandpaper or scotchbrite followed by a little di-electric grease does wonders.

the pin is still intact on mine and i did put the spring over it

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:40:57 PM »

Momentary sw. would be fine...must be normally OFF, ..touch wires together, must start or another problem....!

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Author Topic: Help with starter button (pictures added) (Read 3233 times)