Author Topic: "Drag Queen" FKA 1972 Honda 350 four restoration. Leave no part behind! (Read 17241 times)

Jheart · « **Reply #25 on:** April 10, 2009, 07:31:04 AM »

I'm pulling my primary shaft for exactly the same reason. My starter clutch springs would up in the oil pan. I'm pretty sure you can get to the roller part of the shaft without splitting the cases.

What starter clutch symptoms are you having? Mine just goes whirrrrrrr CLANK! like a monkey wrench is floating around in there. If yours sounds like that, or has no audible contact, then you may only need access to that part of the shaft. (In my understanding). I'm off to go frig with it now, I'll post tonight with results.

twincityrider · « **Reply #26 on:** April 11, 2009, 03:06:58 PM »

Jheart, I was having a whir noise too when I hit the starter button. No engine spin. I took the starter off and sure enough the sprocket connecting to the starter in the engine case spun both ways. Seeing as how I have the engine apart anyway I thought I'd replace the starter clutch. Took the clutch basket cover off, clutch basket off, and oil pump cover. After that I started playing with the starter clutch some more and spraying some WD-40 up into the roller, spring, spring cap area as best I could. Starter clutch started working almost immediately. The catch there's still a slight amount of play in it whereas my replacement starter is dead solid. Looked in the oil pan... springs, roller, spring cap. Might as well do it right so I tried to get the rest of the starter assembly out from the oil pan. Had to take off the right side crank pressure release case. I had no luck whatsoever. Maybe another 1/4 inch and it would work out. So I guess that answers my question... I have to split the cases.

Any luck with yours?

Jheart · « **Reply #27 on:** April 12, 2009, 03:26:09 PM »

This sounds ridiculous, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the 12mm bolt from the end of the secondary shaft, to pull out the primary. How did you keep it from spinning? As in how do you keep tension on the bolt so you can take it off?

I kow this is 101 stuff but it's killing me. I have a second 350F engine I'm working on, so I've been using that. Anyone feel like schooling me on this?

Here's a picture of the bolt I'm talking about.

twincityrider · « **Reply #28 on:** April 14, 2009, 05:26:45 PM »

Got a call from the machine shop today. They took the head apart. All four exhaust valves are bent beyond repair. If you'll excuse me I'm going to go look between the couch cushions for some spare change. This engine just gets more and more rotten the deeper I get into it haha. I'm going to split the cases this weekend to replace that starter cltuch. I will not be shocked if the crankshaft is made out of swiss cheese and held together with duct tape and bubble gum.

twincityrider · « **Reply #29 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:21:41 PM »

Got the parts back from the powder coater today

. Really happy about that. He did a good job.

twincityrider · « **Reply #30 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:23:41 PM »

I'll be working on splitting the cases this weekend. Thought I'd post some pictures of the problem I was working on last weekend. I was trying to remove the starter clutch without having to split the cases... not possible.

twincityrider · « **Reply #31 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:25:48 PM »

Any 350f guys/gals out there with a good supplier for stock piston rings and o rings?

twincityrider · « **Reply #32 on:** April 26, 2009, 10:54:43 AM »

My dad and I split the cases yesterday. Pretty happy with what we saw in there. Looks good. Ended up ordering the ring sets from a company in the Netherlands.

http://www.cmsnl.com/

Anyone got a good trick for getting that damn flywheel off? Had no luck with using a bolt or a flywheel puller. Frustrating to say the least.

twincityrider · « **Reply #33 on:** April 26, 2009, 10:57:31 AM »

Told my dad to pull a stupid face and he succeeded brilliantly. We're going to tear down the motor to the cases to get everything cleaned up and clear-coated. Anything I should know before I start pulling gears? New seals are on the way.

Ecosse · « **Reply #34 on:** April 26, 2009, 11:03:26 AM »

sorry, nothing to add except that your pop makes a convincing 'stupid face'.

uh, that's a compliment.

taymoor · « **Reply #35 on:** April 29, 2009, 09:42:15 PM »

Thanks for keeping a log of your rebuild. I'm about to start a complete resto of the same bike after this semester ends. I've found myself meticulously studying other people's rebuilds so that I know what I'm doing. Keep up the good work!

papp101 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 03, 2009, 12:40:52 AM »

Looking great man! I wish I had the $$$ to get the powdercoating done on my frame! Yours looks great. I didn't have the guts to split the cases as the bike had only 3000 miles and I didn't feel like paying for all the replacement seals, etc. Great job, keep the pics coming!

twincityrider · « **Reply #37 on:** May 03, 2009, 03:39:43 PM »

Taymoor, looking forward to your future thread. I'll be available should you need anything

. It's the end of my first year at law school and with finals I don't have nearly the time (or money) I wish I had to get it on the road soon.

Papp101, yeah I like the powder coating a lot. But had the guy I worked with actually charged me what he quoted me I'd be even happier with it. Strange that the powder coating was more than the bike. I need a paying job soon.

papp101 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 03, 2009, 08:39:46 PM »

I hear that. I paid 175 for mine and I'm at 1500$ on my build now. Ouch.

True that, I'm working at 2 restaurants until I can land something normal again.

Keep it up man!

manjisann · « **Reply #39 on:** May 04, 2009, 01:43:48 PM »

Great thread, don't own one of these babies (yet

) but always awesome to read the threads!

Good luck!

Brandon

Accolay · « **Reply #40 on:** May 05, 2009, 06:46:21 PM »

I'm in South Minneapolis and wondering where you had your powder coating done. What was the cost for all the parts?

twincityrider · « **Reply #41 on:** May 06, 2009, 07:48:09 AM »

Accolay,

Kent, the owner at Powder Coating Technologies in Plymouth did the work for me. Good guy to work with, cost me around $450 for almost every metal piece on my bike. You can save yourself some money by sandblasting it yourself or finding someone else to do it. I think he charged me $175 (included in the $450) for sandblasting. My dad has worked with him before on another bike with similar satisfaction. My feeling is that while powder coating is expensive, this is a bike I'll have forever and if I can come up with the money I ought to do it.

http://www.powdercoatingtech.com/

twincityrider · « **Reply #42 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:10:19 AM »

WOW. Long time since I updated this build. Last summer work got crazy and then I got married. It's all a blur. Anyways, bike is coming along great. About a week until it should fire up. I'll try and catch those who are interested up on the progress since May of '09.

Engine came back together great. Fully rebuilt top end, new rings, seals, bottom end seemed fine, within tolerances.

twincityrider · « **Reply #43 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:14:45 AM »

I'm posting pics as I write. Got to remember how to get the file sizes smaller

twincityrider · « **Reply #44 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:24:16 AM »

Everything including sidecovers was painted with engine paint. Later I would go back and polish the cases.

twincityrider · « **Reply #45 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:25:33 AM »

Fun to initially mount the rear wheel with new tread

twincityrider · « **Reply #46 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:27:19 AM »

Engine back in frame with cases polished. Home polishing is never as great as the pros but I'll take it. Couldn't believe how long it takes to get the luster back in that metal.

twincityrider · « **Reply #47 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:31:57 AM »

Body work took several days, then primed and painted. I sealed the tank last year with POR-15's tank sealer. Great product. Anyways, very happy with how the paint turned out. My dad is the paint pro in our house so I have him to thank for laying down the color and clear. Used House of Kolor snow white pearl. The pearl is mixed in with the base instead of spraying the pearl separate. Three stage pearl is hard to spray evenly so the two stage is easier for the everyman.

twincityrider · « **Reply #48 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:37:44 AM »

My wife and I decided that we should cafe the bike. I know... groan groan but hey, I'm going to do a quality job and make the bike look like the parts could have been stock from Honda. I'm not interested in the rat racer look.

Added a seat from Omar's Dirt Track Racing. This is the wider seat to accommodate the frame rails. Still waiting for the custom black alligator vinyl seat cushion to arrive. Omar's is great, can't recommend Robert (owner) enough. http://omarsdtr.com/

twincityrider · « **Reply #49 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:39:10 AM »

Mocking it up. I'm liking it.

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Author Topic: "Drag Queen" FKA 1972 Honda 350 four restoration. Leave no part behind! (Read 17241 times)

Jheart

Jheart

taymoor