Author Topic: Wiring Schematic Question (Read 8790 times)

Johnny5 · « **on:** April 01, 2009, 02:09:32 PM »

What does NC stand for on a wiring schematic? Im guessing "No Connection". But am not certain.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #1 on:** April 01, 2009, 02:23:13 PM »

I concur.

I Zombie · « **Reply #2 on:** April 01, 2009, 02:25:21 PM »

I know with relayz & switchez it'z
"normaly closed"

Johnny5 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 02, 2009, 03:01:15 AM »

Quote from: I Zombie on April 01, 2009, 02:25:21 PM

I know with relayz & switchez it'z
"normaly closed"

What would "normally closed" mean?

Holubs · « **Reply #4 on:** April 02, 2009, 03:20:53 AM »

Relays contacts are either "Normally Open" or "Normally Closed". "Closed" is when the metal contacts of the relay are touching and provide an electrical connection or closed circuit. "Open' is when the contacts are not touching, or an open circuit that has no electrical connection. When the relay is activated by a control voltage, the relay contacts are moved from their "Normal" position to the other position by an electromagnet. When the control voltage is removed, the contacts return to their "Normal" position.

Relays can have one or more sets of contacts in the case, multiple contact relays can have a mixture of normally open and normally closed contacts, depending upon the application.

Johnny5 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 02, 2009, 03:32:09 AM »

Thanks for the clarificiation.

Crap. I should have labeled the rats nest before I disconnected everything. I have no idea then where the black wire (NC) w/ a brown/white wire goes.

bryanj · « **Reply #6 on:** April 02, 2009, 04:34:24 AM »

I think with those colours it stands for

NOT CONNECTED

Frankencake · « **Reply #7 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:37:05 AM »

What bike and what year and where is the location of your wires?

ev0lve · « **Reply #8 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:54:08 AM »

Quote from: Johnny5 on April 02, 2009, 03:32:09 AM

Thanks for the clarificiation.

Crap. I should have labeled the rats nest before I disconnected everything. I have no idea then where the black wire (NC) w/ a brown/white wire goes.

It won't help but since misery loves company (and I tried to mark mine with a sharpy initially) I feel your pain

Get one of those $5 dollar numbered sticker kits for when you do get it back together. I'm going to paste some notes on the inside of the bucket as well when mine works out... eventually.

Johnny5 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 02, 2009, 07:01:25 AM »

It's a CB750K7. Im lucky though, the PO didnt mess with any of the electrical. It looks to be all stock, except there's an aftermarket ignition and Im changing out the stock blinkers. Im kicking myself now. Lesson learned.

Right now, Im just going my memory since Im at work, but I have 1 black wire that is (NC) and 1 black with a couple for 4 connections with 1 brown/white wire connected to it.

I think I lost whatever part that attaches to the fitting for the front brake - There's two male connections attached to it. Or do two wires from the "nest" attach to this?

jumpjg · « **Reply #10 on:** April 02, 2009, 09:50:35 AM »

Links to stock wiring diagram are available in the FAQ (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17788.0), and also in the owners manual if you still have it. Black wires are switched hot. That means there is no power on them when the key is off, but they supply power to accessories/lights when the key is on. Brown wires with white tracers are used for the running lights (in front turn signals), and instrument lights. Looking at the schematic from above reference (download #6 from K0 - K7 manual), it looks like the front brake light switch is fed power from a black wire coming from the ignition switch that hooks directly to the brake switch. Look for a green/yellow tracer from the main harness to hook up to the other blade on the brake switch.

JS550 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 02, 2009, 09:57:17 AM »

I think the brown/white is a gauge light? Double check that though.

TwoTired · « **Reply #12 on:** April 02, 2009, 10:06:28 AM »

Quote from: Holubs on April 02, 2009, 03:20:53 AM

Relays contacts are either "Normally Open" or "Normally Closed". "Closed" is when the metal contacts of the relay are touching and provide an electrical connection or closed circuit. "Open' is when the contacts are not touching, or an open circuit that has no electrical connection. When the relay is activated by a control voltage, the relay contacts are moved from their "Normal" position to the other position by an electromagnet. When the control voltage is removed, the contacts return to their "Normal" position.

Relays can have one or more sets of contacts in the case, multiple contact relays can have a mixture of normally open and normally closed contacts, depending upon the application.

The normally closed (NC) and normally open (NO) nomenclature printed on the part body also applies to momentary switches, as well. Push buttons, for example.
Not to be confused with wire diagram nomenclature, where NC can be "No Connection".

It a mnemonic world, AFAIK.

Cheers,

Johnny5 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 02, 2009, 02:23:55 PM »

Man, I cant get anything to light up. The battery is fully charged and grounded to the frame.

I still dont see where the female green/yellow and black leads go. I only have 1 male black connection and no male green/yellow.

TwoTired · « **Reply #14 on:** April 02, 2009, 02:51:22 PM »

If you have a Honda wire harness, Black is 12V power from the key switch. Green/Yellow is the stop light. If both those wires are together, it is probably to a stop light switch connection, either front or rear.

Cheers,

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 02, 2009, 04:29:19 PM »

NC is North Carolina, y'all., but in Honda wiring diagrams = ' no connection', as loads of folks have already replied....

Johnny5 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 02, 2009, 04:43:30 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on April 02, 2009, 02:51:22 PM

If you have a Honda wire harness, Black is 12V power from the key switch. Green/Yellow is the stop light. If both those wires are together, it is probably to a stop light switch connection, either front or rear.

Cheers,

Hey TT,

Thanks for the info. I see from the schematic where the green/yellow goes to the stop light, but there is no male green/yellow wire to connect the female too.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 02, 2009, 04:56:49 PM »

Johnny, your at the tail of the beast, right?

Johnny5 · « **Reply #18 on:** April 02, 2009, 05:06:25 PM »

Quote from: Spanner 1 on April 02, 2009, 04:56:49 PM

Johnny, your at the tail of the beast, right?

Nope. Digging through the headlight mess.

Go State...btw.

TwoTired · « **Reply #19 on:** April 02, 2009, 05:12:28 PM »

Quote from: Johnny5 on April 02, 2009, 04:43:30 PM

Quote from: TwoTired on April 02, 2009, 02:51:22 PM
If you have a Honda wire harness, Black is 12V power from the key switch. Green/Yellow is the stop light. If both those wires are together, it is probably to a stop light switch connection, either front or rear.

Cheers,

Hey TT,

Thanks for the info. I see from the schematic where the green/yellow goes to the stop light, but there is no male green/yellow wire to connect the female too.

The stock bike has a pressure switch on the front brake lines. It has male posts.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 02, 2009, 05:12:42 PM »

You should have a green/yellow and black from your front brake switch into the h/l shell...

Johnny5 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 02, 2009, 05:44:45 PM »

Okay, picture time.

Here's the brake pressure switch. Is it missing anything. I cant remember when I broke the bike down a few months ago.

Here's the green/yellow and black wire. This is suppose to attach to the brake switch pictured above? If so, it's a sort of a hard reach.

I just cant figure out what goes into this: I have the brown/white wire routed to the 4-way connector that's connecting to the other brown/white wires.

I cant figure out where this black wire goes:

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 02, 2009, 05:51:09 PM »

It's rare , but black goes to brown/white, should give you speedo and rev counter lights...

Johnny5 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:01:38 PM »

Quote from: Spanner 1 on April 02, 2009, 05:51:09 PM

It's rare , but black goes to brown/white, should give you speedo and rev counter lights...

Hey Spanner, so you're saying that pic #3 might be right?

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:09:58 PM »

Yep, but 2 more brown/white's to go in there also...
Pic. 2 needs to go to pic. 1 to connect front brake-light switch...

Johnny5 · « **Reply #25 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:13:21 PM »

I'll give that a try and post my results. Thanks!

Johnny5 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:27:43 PM »

Oh my gosh, I love this forum!

I've got all my lights. The only thing is that my blinkers are staying lit when switched on. The instrument panel follows suit with the blinkers.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #27 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:34:39 PM »

Original flasher or have you changed it? The stock flasher unit is very sensitive to battery voltage. If you batt is even a little run down, the flasher won't flash until your engine is running and your alternator is pumping.

Johnny5 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:46:19 PM »

Quote from: OldSchool_IsCool on April 02, 2009, 06:34:39 PM

Original flasher or have you changed it? The stock flasher unit is very sensitive to battery voltage. If you batt is even a little run down, the flasher won't flash until your engine is running and your alternator is pumping.

Yeah, that's probably it. The engine's not even in the bike at the moment. Thanks.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #29 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:48:41 PM »

Seems like if you spend even 2 mins. with the switch 'on' working with the wiring , the darned-old flasher relay will just hang in the 'on' mode...won't flash 'till the bikes running and at a decent revs ( normal!). OldSchool+1, in other words......

Johnny5 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:57:59 PM »

This is just a big thank you to everyone that helped me out. Huge relief to get this part over with. Now awaiting my piston rings to come in the mail.

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Author Topic: Wiring Schematic Question (Read 8790 times)

jumpjg