Author Topic: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)  (Read 9688 times)

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Offline Helo229

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Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« on: October 08, 2007, 07:23:28 AM »
Hi all, I taking some reference pictures of my rear wheel before I tore it all down, and the thought of documenting it for prosperity and future generations washed over me. I know there's already alot of other posts on the subject (much of which I'm using as reference, and may borrow portions of) and my goal is not to flood, but to combine all the knowledge into one post, start to finish. 

The objective of this journal is to document:
  • The disassembly of the rear wheel and hub
  • The polishing and cleaning of those components
  • Removal of the wheel bearing retainers
  • Replacement of wheel bearings
  • Applying paint to hub and other components
  • Reassembly of rear hub
  • Relacing the rear hub to the rear hoop


Here's a few pictures of the rear wheel before I started, as you can see, it's in pretty sad shape:





Now, time for disassembly. The process I followed, as I was doing it for the first time, was to remove the tire, then the spokes, seperate the hub from the hoop, then remove the sprocket and rotor. This is definitely not recommended. Every bolt holding the sprocket and brake disc in place has a rediculous ammount of torque on it, and I would recommend tackling them first, with the tire still in place to hold the entire assemble flat on the ground.

Grab yourself a screw driver or chisel and bend down the retainers holding the four bolts on the sprocket side. Next, use either an air gun, breaker bar, or a four-way tire iron to remove the four 19mm bolts holding the sprocket in place. Once they're off, remove the gear assembly and soak it in some gasoline/purple power/simple green.

While that's soaking, flip the wheel over and remove the six bolts holding the rotor in place. Once the rotor is off, take all the bolts you just removed and place them back on their respective posts until they are finger tight. (No point in losing them)

Time for the fun part - removing the tire. Remove the valve stem cap, take a pair of needle-nose pliers, and use them to unscrew the valve. With your tire now very much flat, set the wheel on some towels, pick up either a drop-weight mallet or regular rubber mallet, and beat on the tire one side at a time until the seal is broken all the way around. Using either a set of tire wrenches, or pry bars, remove the tire from the rim. (much easier said than done) If you're having trouble removing the second half of the tire, a neat trick I've learned is to use a dremel to cut the inner-most cord of the tire, and slice the rest of the tire in half. With the tire gone, remove the rubber strip covering the spoke nipples, and smile widely at the rust grinning back at you.




You should now have the rotor, sprocket, and tire all removed. At this point, you're going to want to take out your camera. Make sure you photograph your wheel from several different angles, taking note which side has the hole for the valve stem, what spokes start on the inside and outside of the hub, and which spokes have roughly a 90 degree bend to them and which have a second bend to them about 3/4 of an inch down from the hub.

** Note - do not rely on the pictures I have posted as a reference to your own wheel. Mine is a 16" after-market hoop. **

With your pictures and notes taken, you can start removing your spokes. Just grab your spoke wrench, should be in the top drawer of your tool chest! What? No spoke wrench? Me neither. Grab a screw driver and a 1/4" open-end wrench. If your wheels are in fairly decent shape, you shouldn't have too much trouble getting the spokes loosened enough you can finish them off with a screw driver or drill. If they're in as good as shape as mine were, however, prepare to swear alot, drink a few beers, and ponder how it is that we can land a man on the moon, but that ratcheting open-end wrench hasn't been invented yet.

Make sure that once you get down to the last few you place something under the hub to catch it when it becomes free. I just balled up a couple shop towels.

And voilá, you've just finished what's without a doubt the worst part of the job! In my next post, I'll go over cleaning up the parts. Here's a little teaser:




All images can be found at http://www.flickr.com/photos/traa2k1/. Can someone PM me a good photosharing service? Flickr is a pain...
« Last Edit: October 08, 2007, 07:46:08 AM by Helo229 »

Offline ekim98

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2007, 09:06:25 AM »
Good job on the how to. When it's all done this needs to be put in the FAQ forum.
Patriot Guard Rider - KY. Ride with Respect

78 750k  cafe bike sort of
67 305  Superhawk (working project)

Offline Helo229

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2007, 06:05:33 AM »
It's been some time since I last updated this thread. As I last stated, in this post I'm going to look at polishing and cleaning up the parts some.

There really is no trick to this if you're just looking to clean them up/prep them for some painting. Here's everything you're going to need:
  • Electric Drill
  • Wire brush wheel for drill
  • Wire hand brush
  • Dremel or similar rotary tool
  • A flat wire brush for your rotary tool
  • Naval Jelly
  • Some c-clamps


**Quick disclaimer: Naval Jelly is an acid. As such, there is a possibility of it eatting through aluminum and chrome plating. In my application, I used it as a last resort, however, in my application of it, I was extremely liberal with it, and would allow it to sit for up to 24 hours until completely dry before removing it, and it did no damage whatsoever to my rim. I cannot, repeat cannot, say that this is typical due to this being my first use of it on a Honda motorcycle rim. Absolutely under no circumstances use Naval Jelly on any aluminum part, such as the hub itself.**


With that being said, if you're sure to be careful and test it first, apply the Naval Jelly to the inside of the rim to start eatting up the rust which has built up between your rimstrip and spokes. For the first few applications, be sure to keep an eye on it and ensure that there are no adverse effects. If there are, immediately douse the part with water rinsing off as much as possible, and coat it with baking powder to neutralize any of the acid the water failed to remove.

Once you have as much of rust removed/blackened as you can, start hitting it with the wire brush, applying more naval jelly between your attempts to ease your workload. Before long, you should be able to cut through the rust in no time.

Take the sprocket, chain guard, and disc brake off, and soak them in either a degreasing solution such as Simple Green, Purple Power, or some Kero/Gasoline.

While they're soaking, you're free to start working on the hub. There's no magic to be had here. Get the drill and wire wheel, and go to town. Aluminum is a very soft metal, so there's no need to press hard with the tools, let the weight of the drill do the work for you, and keep it constantly moving so you're not removing chunks of metal from any one spot.

1/3 of the way done:


Once you're done with the outsides of the hub, get your rotary tool with it's flat brush and do the same with the inside of the hub, being careful not to rip off the rubber stops from your cushdrive.

See? Painless. If you're looking to paint the hub, the semi-coarse brushed finish is good enough to make the paint stick. If you're looking to polish the whole deal up to sparkle and shine like chrome, just find one of the many threads on here about metal polishing and go to town.

As for the spocket/disc you had soaking in parts cleaner, when they're nice and degreased you can hit them up with the same process. The black paint that was on my disc was chipped and all around-beat looking, so I brushed it all off to nice effect, and will be using some high temp spray paint to recoat it.

Offline Steve F

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2007, 06:37:47 AM »
Why is it I can't see any...repeat ANY of these photos...even some of the avitars are missing and replaced with that dastardly red X???  Some threads show up, but this thread is blank.  This is really pissing me off  any suggestions?

Offline Bob Wessner

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2007, 06:39:07 AM »
Steve,

What OS and browser are you using?
We'll all be someone else's PO some day.

Offline Helo229

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2007, 07:17:35 AM »
It might be Flikr's fault. They're terrible for photo hosting because they require every pic to be linked back to their page. Which, I um.. Did but doesn't seem to be working  ::) ..... If you really want to read this thread when it's all finished, I can just save it to .rtf and email it to you. As it is I've just about finished the project but haven't had time to post it all yet.

Offline Bob Wessner

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2007, 08:17:36 AM »
All the pics have been displaying for me. ???
We'll all be someone else's PO some day.

Offline Steve F

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #7 on: November 07, 2007, 03:56:04 AM »
Steve,

What OS and browser are you using?
Windows XP professional for the O.S., and internet explorer.  I probably should say that I'm using the computer at work, and they may have some kind of firewall, or maybe there's some setting that I don't have "checked" to allow pictures to display correctly?  I don't knnow what the problem may be.  >:(

Offline Pip

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #8 on: November 20, 2007, 04:15:20 PM »
I hate to bring this off topic, but I need a spoked rear disc brake wheel badly. What bikes did these come on?? I REAAAAALLY appreciate it!
2005 Ducati Monster 620.
1976 Honda CB250G5 Cafe/Resto.

Offline Steve F

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #9 on: November 25, 2007, 05:11:19 PM »
I hate to bring this off topic, but I need a spoked rear disc brake wheel badly. What bikes did these come on?? I REAAAAALLY appreciate it!
I think the only ones were the '75 and '76F models that had the spokes.  After that they were comstars.  ???

Offline Pip

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #10 on: November 25, 2007, 10:45:25 PM »
Thanks Steve!!
2005 Ducati Monster 620.
1976 Honda CB250G5 Cafe/Resto.

Offline lucky

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Re: Rear Wheel Rebuild/Refinish (750F Disk)
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2011, 04:16:57 PM »
You can just use a Valve core removal tool instead of a pair of pliers.
BTW Trying to cut a tire in half with a cut off wheel instead of removing it with tire irons is very dangerous. The rubber just wants to grab the tool and wrap it around your face.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2011, 04:19:36 PM by lucky »