Author Topic: What 530 standard chain are you running? (Read 4529 times)

Turbogrimace · « **on:** April 08, 2009, 12:35:19 PM »

Im building a hopped up 836 kit in my 77 CB750F, back cut tranny, ported head, big cam, bla bla bla. Ill be putting down a bit more power than the stocker would.

With all that, Im having some issues with chain clearance on the seat rail and the engine cases so I cannot run an o-ring chain. A 530 standard fits nicely with about 1/4 inch of clearance from the tire and about 1/8 inch of clearance from the frame. I know it's snug but thats what I got.

What chains are you guys running on your performance engines that are not o-ring. I've seen mixed thoughts on tensile strength ratings and hate that they base the tensile strength recommendations on the engine size. The relationship is lost because a 750 back in 1975 was making 64 hp whereas a 750 now is making 100 to 150 hp.

So feel free to give me some specs on what you guys are running and how it's worked out for ya. Thanks.

jaknight · « **Reply #1 on:** April 08, 2009, 09:45:15 PM »

Hi Turbo,

I don't have a souped up 750....... I do run a DID Heavy Duty chain, good for around 9,000 ft lbs if I remember correctly.

I thought you might find this link interesting. Note the statements about so called standard chains versus O rings versus X rings. Also note what is said about chain companies advertising statements....

http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm

Hope it sheds some light on what you're looking for.

~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

lordmoonpie · « **Reply #2 on:** April 09, 2009, 04:46:09 AM »

Eh? Doesn't everyone run a 520 on their souped up sled like me?!

Where's Eldar when you need a good disagreement about chain sizes...

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #3 on:** April 09, 2009, 05:30:32 AM »

Is the DID heavy duty chain a 530? I cant find any specs on it.

I was looking at the Tsubaki 530 HQR Super Series Solid Roller Chains, but Im not sure if they have the same width as a standard 530 roller chain. In some of the descriptions it says it uses thicker side plates, so Im not sure if this will work.

Does anyone know where I can find info on the DID heavy duty 530 chain?

or

Does anyone know of the Tsubaki 530 HQR Super Series Solid Roller Chain is wider than a standard 530 roller chain?

Thanks again.

754 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 09, 2009, 07:16:07 AM »

It is not noticeably wider, if it is it is within a 32nd of an inch, or a millimetre of normal chain.

I have had great ,luck with Tsubaki, the only ones I would run is it, or the strong Diamond series, Hondaman has talked about.

If the sideplates were like 2mm and the added 20 %, it would be 19 thou per side, giving less than a mm increase is what Tsubaki is talking about. They may also mean increase over standard min sideplate thickness + using higher tensile material . The QR refers to the pin being peened in 4 spots, rather than 2, after the chain is aseembled.. which is much stronger..

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #5 on:** April 09, 2009, 07:41:27 AM »

Great! Thanks for the info.

Does anyone know of any standard roller chains that are comparable to the Tsubaki 530 HQR Super Series Solid Roller Chain by tensile strength? Perhaps a better value. That fella costs 130 smackers! I was looking more along the lines of say 70 bucks.

JLeather · « **Reply #6 on:** April 09, 2009, 07:43:59 AM »

Oh, so now you're being super picky AND cheap? Geez, man, they found you a chain already

754 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 09, 2009, 07:50:06 AM »

Not sure if there is a QR and HQR, but a couple years ago they were running 50 or 60 bux on ebay.

1884dale · « **Reply #8 on:** April 09, 2009, 09:25:50 AM »

Where's Eldar when you need a good disagreement about chain sizes...

[/quote]

Where is Eldar anyway

I haven't seen him post in a while!

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #9 on:** April 09, 2009, 10:56:45 AM »

I think I might have a solid roller HD chain available.

Let me check for you and I'll post what I have tonight.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #10 on:** April 09, 2009, 11:11:59 AM »

Thanks Havoc. Let me know.

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #11 on:** April 09, 2009, 01:12:51 PM »

OK-

Toughest 530 chain I have....

EK DRZ-2
Non-Sealed
11,500lbs Tensile Strength

Keep in mind this is a developed drag racing chain. Cheapest one I have is $155 for 120 links.

Then there's....

DID Super Non O-ring NZ
Non-Sealed
8,600lbs Tensile Strength

Cheapest I have is $92.95 for 110 links.

Then....

EK SR Sport Solid
Solid Bushings and Rollers
7,260lbs Tensile Strength
Quad Stake Riveting

Cheapest I have is $51.95 for 110 links.

Just for reference - I have an 85 Kawasaki 750 Turbo that I run a 530 x-ring on. Might not fit for your application due to the clearance issues you seem to have, but it holds up tremendously well with 120hp. Pity I cannot say the same for steel sprockets.

Hope that helps.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #12 on:** April 09, 2009, 01:26:35 PM »

The EK DRZ-2 says it's only for Racing. What characteristics limit it to racing only?

That's one strong ass chain though hahaha. Can you do me a favor and measure the pin length (widest point)? I want to get an idea of the difference in thickness.

Im using a 40 cent pile of crap chain I pulled off my old bike for mockup. I bought a stock 750 with some unknown chain and it would stretch after a 4 mile ride. And it looked new!

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #13 on:** April 09, 2009, 01:57:40 PM »

Well considering that the hp limit is 300hp!!!!

That chain is huge for a 530. It's also extremely heavy and will need to be oiled before and after every ride. Don't even think about riding in the rain.

Basically it's too over the top for daily riding. But you wanted the biggest and best and for the 530 and that would be it. I threw it in for reference purposes mostly.

Here are the specs...

MaxHP / 300
Pitch / 5/8
Roller MM / 10.20mm
Roller Link Width / .375in
Pin Link Plate Thickness / 2.40mm
Roller Link Plate Thickness / 2.40mm
Pin Length / 23.00mm
Tensile Strength / 10,500lbs
Wear Index (100 std) / 200

I also have some house brand 530 HD Standard chains but they wouldn't be very good for a built 750.

You sure you want a standard chain? Can you give me accurate tolerances for chain size? I might be able to find a sealed chain that fits.

754 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 09, 2009, 09:49:13 PM »

Just as a point of reference.. run of the mill industrial chain is cheap, and it does end up on bikes, mainly because it is so cheap (the owner, not the bike)

Dont ask me how I know, but if you ride hard you can take one out in less than a month.. with a stock motor.. and it will stretch, so much & so quickly that you can break good sprockets..

Got a stock Honda front here with about 5 teeth left... and oh yeah, the sound of rollers splitting and zinging off is sorta cool till you see what it did to the sprockets....

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #15 on:** April 10, 2009, 05:12:44 AM »

Hah, yeah I think the PO of my old bike bought his chain at the dollar store. Id take it out for a 50 mile ride and the chain would be slapping the exhaust 3 inches below it.

As for clearance issues fellas, I took care of it hahaha. I moved the swingarm over 5 mm and removed the offset front sprocket. The chainline looks good and I have 3/8" clearance to the frame and a really tight 1/32 to the tire with a 530 oring chain. I know that's pretty close, but the tire will swell up and move away at speed. As for where I got that 5 mm, Im running a DOHC swingarm and they need to be cut down to fit these frames. I also took some meat out of the bolt hole on the right side of the frame and put a spacer on the left side. Im less than 3mm off from center so I dont think it's going to have any tracking problems.

Now I do have another question though, what is a good way to check the chainline other than just throwing your eye down it like your looking for a straight 2x4. Can you just use a simple laser pointer and line it up? I was also thinking of spinning the wheel and listening for the teeth to chatter on the side plates.

Thanks for all the help guys. And thanks a lot for the guidance and technical jargon Havoc.

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #16 on:** April 10, 2009, 08:07:09 AM »

Seems old fashioned now, but I use blue masking tape. Then eyeball it.

It's easier for me to pick up the subtle changes in line for the masking tape than it would be with a chain on it.

I think there's a lazer pointer adapter made especially for chain alignment but you are talking $$ if you are only going to use it once.

I do carry an aluminum post version of the lazer pointer though. But like I said, they can be $$$ if you are only going to use them for this project.

754 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 10, 2009, 09:02:05 AM »

I use a piece of I think 1/4 or 3/8 by 3/4 flat bar. Make sure you drill a hole in it to hang/find it, after you make sure its straight

Hmm wonder where mine went??

Anyway you cant work off the front if its floating, so use the rear. Bolted in lightly, hold bar flat against sprocket.. positioned to go up to the front one.. Now move the back wheel til the bar is parrallel to the front, and space between bar is even to both sides of front cog. If it off more than a 1/16, start shimming or trimming..

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #18 on:** April 10, 2009, 09:43:06 AM »

So you bolted a bar to the rear sprocket and then checked to see if it was flush with the front sprocket? At the teeth? Am I following you correctly?

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #19 on:** April 10, 2009, 12:16:26 PM »

Used this...

754 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 10, 2009, 12:47:42 PM »

I never bolted it I dont think, I just hold it against(rear) and above(front), then bring down to the front sprocket.

Hold your boot against the wheel to steady it.

I used to get this quite a bit, tranny in a (often custom) frame, back wheel, axle.. no spacers.. and they say. "make it work"

.................................................................................

First of you have to get one of the sprockets in plane, that is in line with the frame or motor centerline. Then you use that to adjust the other. ....simple.

Dont always assume what spacers you have are right, they can be wrong & swingarm can be bent.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #21 on:** April 10, 2009, 12:58:38 PM »

Once again, thanks for the info. I think Ill snag a spare bar from work and check it out. I have plenty of options to wiggle the rear wheel around a bit so I dont think it will be a problem anymore.

754 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 10, 2009, 01:05:43 PM »

So did you go to the darkside, and use ..gasp..O-ring?

My personal feeling is you had the wurst of chains on there, and are now being ubercautious.

I dont mind maintaining a chain, and oiling every 200 miles, it gets you looking at your bie a lot more, and keeping an eye on it..

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #23 on:** April 10, 2009, 08:34:53 PM »

I had an oring chain sitting on my shelf. It's good to 11,000 lbs. I dont mind maintaining a chain, but this one was 80 bucks, not 150 like the non-sealed ones of equivalent TS. Actually, even though its oring, it still needs to be lubed now and then. Otherwise it will last just as long as a maintained non-oring. Which still isnt bad. My other bike has the same chain and I havent had any stretch in 2000 miles of hard riding. The bikes I have are very custom so I have to keep an eye on everything. The one I'm building now has seen more mods than Joan Rivers.

mrblasty · « **Reply #24 on:** April 11, 2009, 03:13:24 AM »

I'm running an EK quadra x-ring 530x100 link riveted chain on my stock 750. I have had absolutely no troubles from it. Clean it with an oring safe cleaner, grease it with belray sticky grease. redo every 200-300 miles. I've got three years ou tof it and it doesn't look like I'll need to replace it anytime soon.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #25 on:** April 11, 2009, 05:36:21 AM »

Yeah I've read that some of those x-ring chains can get to 30+k miles man. Thats pretty nifty.

754 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 11, 2009, 08:57:56 AM »

You can get more than that out of a Diamond non O-ring..

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #27 on:** April 11, 2009, 01:16:27 PM »

Quote from: 754 on April 11, 2009, 08:57:56 AM

You can get more than that out of a Diamond non O-ring..

I should hope so.... but what kind of drugs do you sell there buddy to afford a 100 or so link diamond chain....

And talk about bling.... daaaaaaaaaaamn!!!!

torrinh · « **Reply #28 on:** April 12, 2009, 09:07:11 AM »

530 standard DID chain on my K8, 18/48 sprocket conversion. 104 links, put it on yesterday.

lordmoonpie · « **Reply #29 on:** April 15, 2009, 04:57:45 AM »

Just riveted mine up too - a 104 link, 520 regina Z-ring....ooooo....now what you gonna do?!

Inigo Montoya · « **Reply #30 on:** April 15, 2009, 06:07:34 AM »

Maybe I missed it but did you change something turbo? I mean the 77 CAME with a 630 o-ring from the factory I thought. That being the case, an oring chain of any brand should fit with no issues unless you changed sprocket offsets in some way.

Otherwise, I got a RK x-ring chain and it was about 75 clams or so.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #31 on:** April 15, 2009, 06:58:26 AM »

Well let's see what was changed hehehe.

Santee swingarm frame
DOHC Swingarm
180 rear tire
Harley offset hub w/ 18x5.5 rim
77 CB750F engine

Just some minor changes from stock that may affect the chain spacing.

Unfortunately I couldnt leave well enough alone and ride a stocker. I may end up knocking the swingarm over another 2-3 mm to get just a bit more clearance from the tire. 1/16 of an inch seems to be cutting it close.

Although that does bring up another question. How close can you run a chain to the tire without having any significant issues? I have to run about 125 links to give you an idea of the free-float length of the chain.

754 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 15, 2009, 07:46:47 AM »

Hitting rubber once in a while wont hurt a good chain. So set it so it just clears it.

Turbogrimace · « **Reply #33 on:** April 15, 2009, 08:13:58 AM »

Thanks 754 thats what I was thinking. A friend of mine told me he's seen people build bikes where the chain rubbed at really low speed. When the bike gets up to cruising speed, it thins out and lifts up so it has more clearance at that point.

Someone else on another forum was speaking about 1/2 inch of clearance because the swingarm has a tendency to move side to side. WOOOOT?

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #34 on:** April 15, 2009, 08:15:52 AM »

Quote from: Turbogrimace on April 15, 2009, 08:13:58 AM

Thanks 754 thats what I was thinking. A friend of mine told me he's seen people build bikes where the chain rubbed at really low speed. When the bike gets up to cruising speed, it thins out and lifts up so it has more clearance at that point.

Someone else on another forum was speaking about 1/2 inch of clearance because the swingarm has a tendency to move side to side. WOOOOT?

On the old Truimph Tiger or whatever that thing was that might happen.

Arm and motor were seperate from the frame and rubber mounted!!!

But on your bike....

Only if it's broken.

News:

Author Topic: What 530 standard chain are you running? (Read 4529 times)

1884dale