Topic: New main jets, How do i change the clip position

[rookieridercb550]

I just got 115 main jets for my cb550. I also have a 4-1 exhaust and pod air filters. I am told that i need to adjust the clip to the second position for the right effect. I am just learning and have no idea how to do that.  Can anyone please help?

[rookieridercb550]

I have a 75, if that helps answer

[ev0lve]

Sorry about that. Posted 750 carbs

Should be about the same though? Someone smack me if not.

Part #3 Disassemble carbs. Move clip. Clean everything. Reassemble. bench sync. Burn some kind of pagan offering. Put on bike. Tune-up. Vacuum sync.

[Laminar]

On the right side of the needle in the previous picture you can see 5 different slots where the "E" clip can go. I believe stock is the middle position.

[aussie]

Sorry about that. Posted 750 carbs

Should be about the same though? Someone smack me if not.

Part #3 Disassemble carbs. Move clip. Clean everything. Reassemble. bench sync. Burn some kind of pagan offering. Put on bike. Tune-up. Vacuum sync.

Is there anyway of doing it, with out disassemble of the carbs?

[ev0lve]

I am soooooo not an expert but I think you'd have to get the linkage off of them somehow and then pull the tops off em and THEN the whole piston with the needle attached. By that point you probably might as well take the whole assembly off the bike, give them a thorough cleansing top to bottom inside and out and make sure all the passages are clear and so forth. You'll still need to bench sync them which I suppose you could do on the bike if you wanted to badly enough but I can't really imagine it.

So... no. Not really.

I've only had to do it twice though. Wait for the thread to catch the interest of some of the more experienced guys.

[aussie]

I am soooooo not an expert but I think you'd have to get the linkage off of them somehow and then pull the tops off em and THEN the whole piston with the needle attached. By that point you probably might as well take the whole assembly off the bike, give them a thorough cleansing top to bottom inside and out and make sure all the passages are clear and so forth. You'll still need to bench sync them which I suppose you could do on the bike if you wanted to badly enough but I can't really imagine it.

So... no. Not really.

I've only had to do it twice though. Wait for the thread to catch the interest of some of the more experienced guys.

It had me stumped, after swapping out for bigger mains and wanting to change the clip position.I spent some time tyring to work out a way,with out a complete strip down.
Could find anyway of making it work, real pity to cause i dont have any need for a complete teardown, and carbie kits are really hard to find in OZ.

[Porscheguy912]

Welcome to the forum!  
Do a quick search for manuals on the forum. You can download a PDF for your bike.
The Manual will have instructions and exploded views and diagrams.
Also do a keyword search. IE: Clip position, Jets jetting Blah,blah,blah. There is alot of info on this site that already outlines this process.
Its a fairly straight forward process though.

Goodluck

[aussie]

Welcome to the forum!  
Do a quick search for manuals on the forum. You can download a PDF for your bike.
The Manual will have instructions and exploded views and diagrams.
Also do a keyword search. IE: Clip position, Jets jetting Blah,blah,blah. There is alot of info on this site that already outlines this process.
Its a fairly straight forward process though.

Goodluck

Yeh , do you think you could explain that fairly straight forward process

[TwoTired]

A 75 could be F or could be a K model.  Stock clip position is different for each model.  Of course, the stock setting assumes stock air filter and exhaust so there is no "right" setting for changes until you determine the engine needs with those components.  Main, Throttle valve, and air bleed setting will all likely need new settings for YOUR non-stock bike.

Search for Plug Chop, Pods. exhaust change, etc.

You might look at the FAQ, too.

You can change the clip position with the carbs on the 550 bike.  You have to be smart about it.  And you will have to vacuum sync the carbs afterward.  It can be done though, and it's faster than removing the carbs from the bike.

Cheers,

[aussie]

A 75 could be F or could be a K model.  Stock clip position is different for each model.  Of course, the stock setting assumes stock air filter and exhaust so there is no "right" setting for changes until you determine the engine needs with those components.  Main, Throttle valve, and air bleed setting will all likely need new settings for YOUR non-stock bike.

Search for Plug Chop, Pods. exhaust change, etc.

You might look at the FAQ, too.

You can change the clip position with the carbs on the 550 bike.  You have to be smart about it.  And you will have to vacuum sync the carbs afterward.  It can be done though, and it's faster than removing the carbs from the bike.

Cheers,

How ?, the original Question was "HOW" to do it.
Everybody has said it can be done, and its fairly straight forward,( if its that easy and straight forward can somebody explain it ), .He asked "HOW" to do it.
I have searched the fact and questions to no avail,and i have come across the same problem and couldnt see a way of doing it.

The bike i refer to is a 550k 77 model.

[TwoTired]

The original poster said he had a 75.  Which aren't the PD carbs like on the 78.  I have done the earlier carbs on the bike. But, I looked at the PD carbs, and they SHOULD need the same things.

Remove top cover from a carb (2 screws)
Note the arms on the main actuating shaft.  Remove screw the holds arm to actuating shaft.
Look into the recess of the slide proper and find two cross head screws.  Find a long thin screw driver to remove those two screws.
Pull the slide lifter mechanism up and pivot away from the slide.
Reach in and pull the slide up and out of the bore, giving full access to the slide needle.  Or, use a long needle nose pliers or forceps to withdraw the needle from the slide while still in the carb.

Do one at a time and reassemble in reverse order except for the top cover on the PD carbs.

3 more carbs to do, then vacuum sync.  Then reinstall the PD carb top covers.

Cheers,

[aussie]

The original poster said he had a 75.  Which aren't the PD carbs like on the 78.  I have done the earlier carbs on the bike. But, I looked at the PD carbs, and they SHOULD need the same things.

Remove top cover from a carb (2 screws)
Note the arms on the main actuating shaft.  Remove screw the holds arm to actuating shaft.
Look into the recess of the slide proper and find two cross head screws.  Find a long thin screw driver to remove those two screws.
Pull the slide lifter mechanism up and pivot away from the slide.
Reach in and pull the slide up and out of the bore, giving full access to the slide needle.  Or, use a long needle nose pliers or forceps to withdraw the needle from the slide while still in the carb.

Do one at a time and reassemble in reverse order except for the top cover on the PD carbs.

3 more carbs to do, then vacuum sync.  Then reinstall the PD carb top covers.

Cheers,

Nope that wont work, because the actuatining arm slides over the the main shaft and has a key way to keep it in position. To remove the needle is simple, but getting this arm out of the way to raise out the needle is not that simple.But there must be a way.

[heffay]

i like how we're all talking to ourselves w/out the original poster.   

btw... are those giant apehangers? 

[ev0lve]

Well, now my interest is piqued. If you don't have to wrestle the carbs back onto the boots and airbox you COULD save a ton of time. How would you get the arm off the top of the carbs though. 550 and 750 carbs seem to have at least that much in common?

I'm not visualizing how to get the actuator off the top of carbs.

(Pardon the crusty reference pic of my carbs )

[aussie]

Well, now my interest is piqued. If you don't have to wrestle the carbs back onto the boots and airbox you COULD save a ton of time. How would you get the arm off the top of the carbs though. 550 and 750 carbs seem to have at least that much in common?

I'm not visualizing how to get the actuator off the top of carbs.

(Pardon the crusty reference pic of my carbs )

Iggy those carbys are easy, all you need to do is unscrew the top and the needle & slide will come straight out. But the 550 carbs with the cap on top and two screw are a hole new ball game.

[ev0lve]

Oh no, I have that portion of the procedure pretty firmly grasped at this point 

I'm wondering, installed on the bike, how do you get the actuator arm (right name? Big silver thing that moves the needle up and down in the carb - linkage!) off and out of the way so you CAN get to the tops of the carbs to unscrew etc etc.

Not visualizing that maneuver at all unfortunately. In the shot above the 2 screws holding the carb to the throttle body(?) are removed letting the left carb slip out.

Still a problem you'd face on the 550? If not I'll stop diluting the thread.

[aussie]

Oh no, I have that portion of the procedure pretty firmly grasped at this point 

I'm wondering, installed on the bike, how do you get the actuator arm (right name? Big silver thing that moves the needle up and down in the carb - linkage!) off and out of the way so you CAN get to the tops of the carbs to unscrew etc etc.

Not visualizing that maneuver at all unfortunately. Still a problem you'd face on the 550? If not I'll stop diluting the thread.

The 550 carbs are different, see the picture attached.The acuating arms are inside where the slide is.Yours seem to be on the outside.

[ev0lve]

Then I'll stop with the conjecture. Sorry about that. Clearly not something you could get away with on a 750 then.

Anyone got any 550 carb pics for the diagramatically challenged?

[aussie]

Then I'll stop with the conjecture. Sorry about that. Clearly not something you could get away with on a 750 then.

Anyone got any 550 carb pics for the diagramatically challenged?

Iggy looking at yours, im guessing if you undo that screw/bolt that is holding the arm onto the rod.The would just lift up/rotate out of the way.

[ev0lve]

I'll have to go look at them in person but I thought the were holding the shaft in place. I suppose you could loosen that and slide the shaft out then go about your business. But without the thing in front of me... I really don't know.

Anyways, please carry on without worrying about the 750 carbs.

[TwoTired]

The original poster said he had a 75.  Which aren't the PD carbs like on the 78.  I have done the earlier carbs on the bike. But, I looked at the PD carbs, and they SHOULD need the same things.

Remove top cover from a carb (2 screws)
Note the arms on the main actuating shaft.  Remove screw the holds arm to actuating shaft.
Look into the recess of the slide proper and find two cross head screws.  Find a long thin screw driver to remove those two screws.
Pull the slide lifter mechanism up and pivot away from the slide.
Reach in and pull the slide up and out of the bore, giving full access to the slide needle.  Or, use a long needle nose pliers or forceps to withdraw the needle from the slide while still in the carb.

Do one at a time and reassemble in reverse order except for the top cover on the PD carbs.

3 more carbs to do, then vacuum sync.  Then reinstall the PD carb top covers.

Cheers,

Nope that wont work, because the actuatining arm slides over the the main shaft and has a key way to keep it in position. To remove the needle is simple, but getting this arm out of the way to raise out the needle is not that simple.But there must be a way.

You don't have to remove the main shaft.  Just pivot the actuating arm on the shaft with the screws removed.

[aussie]

Well i"ll be stuffed , thanks Twotired, you are worth your weight in gold

As long as those two tiny,tiny screws come out.

[TwoTired]

Well i"ll be stuffed , thanks Twotired, you are worth your weight in gold

As long as those two tiny,tiny screws come out.

Need to have a slender shank #2 for those two cross head screws.

Gonna go have a really big meal, then check the gold exchange rate.

Cheers,

[cherry bomb]

is there a little plate that sits over the slides that is held in by the screws? when the screws are taken out that whole assembly shound come out the top right?