Topic: A little clutch help please...?

[Skyguyz]

So, I am trying to help a friend who is having clutch issues with his 1975 SOHC engine.
FYI:  *I restore from the crank up, Kawasaki H1, H2’s, etc and most all other 2 stroke Japanese street bikes from the 1970’s. I could take apart a clutch basket for those bikes with high confidence. This is my first go with the Honda clutch. This Honda inner clutch basket is spinning freely with the 4 springs tightened in proper sequence and yet, the clutch is not “Biting” together the steels, (6) and the frictions, (7.) *See video.

I have checked the schematic on this clutch and see no parts missing. I measured the springs, (32.36 mm)  and friction plates, (3.67 mm) and
they seem fine. *I am using the homemade “Special tool" for the clutch nut...Sheesh!

*This must be a common rookie mistake with an easy fix?

Any pearls of wisdom is helpful and thanks in advance for for helping.


PS: Really hoping for one of the “AW-HAAA!” moments.     

[scottly]

check the clocking of the splines; there are two right ways, and two wrong ways.

[HondaMan]

...and - that top clutch plate with the slanted cork blocks is backward. The slants should go the opposite way: flip the top one over. It must fling the oil out thru the grooves when spinning.

[Skyguyz]

check the clocking of the splines; there are two right ways, and two wrong ways.

Thanks Scotty. I looked at the 2nd picture and it looks like it’s clocked correctly?

[Skyguyz]

...and - that top clutch plate with the slanted cork blocks is backward. The slants should go the opposite way: flip the top one over. It must fling the oil out thru the grooves when spinning.

Thanks! I should have caught that as well.


Sky

[kaptainkid1]

I just had this problems last week. The 1st pick of the clutch basket isn't sitting correctly and 2nd /3rd is correct.
You have to set the clutch plates correctly by rotating until it sits correctly. You won't have a gap on the back.

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