Topic: One kick bike before sync. Now it takes a few

[friedfish80]

76 cb750f with 78 k motor.

Work done within 500 miles   
Carb sync
Valves adjusted
Carbs cleaned
Cam chain tension adjusted
Timeing checked
Oil changed
Idle air screws out 1 full turn from bottom

Bike was running well and I made it alot better with the sync. I wasent off that much but enough. But before I did the sync I could leave the choke off and kick it one time and it would fire. Now I mess with the choke, and the throttle and have to kick it about 12 times to get it to fire. But only when cold. Once warm it's a one kick again. Cold the bike will need help to idel at 1000 rpm. But once warm it's around 1700 rpm

What other tuneing do I need to do to get it right?
I'm not sure what model carb I have. I'll be able to post pics once I get he tonight.
 

[friedfish80]

Forgot to mention that I have a stock 4-1 head pipe with no muffler. And I'm running pods that have been clearcoated to prevent the lean condition at higher rpm

[mlinder]

That's semi-normal behavior. 12 kicks is a tad excessive, but a lot of people have trouble kickstarting bikes that aren't pig-rich on the idle circuit. Have some friends that couldn't start a bike to save their lives, but only take me one or two tries to get going.
If it runs well, idles well (once warmed up), and plugs look good, you probably just need to get used to it's particular starting ritual.

(by the way, I don't quite get the 'clear coating of pods' thing. How do you know they are offering equal restriction?)

[TwoTired]

78 carbs have accel pump 76 do not.  Which do you have?

Are your choke plates closing fully?

[friedfish80]

no accel pumps on mine. And I beleave the choke plates are fully operational.


As for the pods. I'm only guessing on the coment about the restriction. What I did was I used a small tin can to mask off the pod and sprayed them with the clear.

[mlinder]

no accel pumps on mine. And I beleave the choke plates are fully operational.


As for the pods. I'm only guessing on the coment about the restriction. What I did was I used a small tin can to mask off the pod and sprayed them with the clear.

But how do you know that you've offered equal restriction across all 4 pods this way?

Take off the pods off and watch the choke plates while you activate it, get a good visual to make sure everything is happening correctly there.

[friedfish80]

purely a guess on pods. Bike works fine when running. And sync is solid.

I'll check the choke once I get off the ambulance tonight.

[TwoTired]

You may have to change your start up procedure.

Since the pods have leaned the idle mixture.  Open the throttle while applying full choke.  That should draw more fuel from the throttle valve for starting.  The closed choke plate with reduce the air and deepen the carb throat vacuum.

You should still review your carb settings, particularly the idle air bleed.

[friedfish80]

idle air bleed??? Ok you lost me there.

[TwoTired]

Each carb has and adjustment screw on the side of it that adjust the amount of air premixed with the pilot circuit fuel before it is delivered to the carb bore.

Most shop manuals and even some owner's manuals depict this adjustment.

You do have a shop manual for when you work on your bike, right?

[friedfish80]

yes I do have a manual. Between that and this forum I would lost.

I have allways heard them called idle air screws. I was just makeing sure that we were on the same page. Being that I'm running pods and no muffler. Should I turn them out more??
I got a new set of plugs to throw in. I think i'm gona do that and go for a long ride. Then see where I sit.

[TwoTired]

I would expect to turn them in a bit.  How's the response from throttle whack?

[mlinder]

I ran with, I think, stock pilot jets, but only 3/4 turns out with pods.

[friedfish80]

Ill try the 3/4 turn when i get out tonight. when its running i havent had any issues at all with it. runs like a champ.