Author Topic: I need to bend this... how best to do it? (Read 3930 times)

timdhawk · « **on:** April 17, 2009, 08:13:01 pm »

i need this to have a 90* bend upwards in it. Is it pressed in or was some type of adhesive used? What would be the best way to achive this:
Can i remove it and replace it with a prebent piece of tube, or could i heat this one up and bend it without tweaking it? Would brazing be an option?

myhondas · « **Reply #1 on:** April 17, 2009, 08:18:27 pm »

Some more info would help....like what bike....engine size....what is the purpose of the bend. an so on....

ray#?

bwaller · « **Reply #2 on:** April 17, 2009, 08:37:00 pm »

I wouldn't mess with it but instead use a separate 90 degree elbow and connect the two with flexible tubing.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 17, 2009, 08:43:37 pm »

Quote from: bwaller on April 17, 2009, 08:37:00 pm

I wouldn't mess with it but instead use a separate 90 degree elbow and connect the two with flexible tubing.

+1 you'll never bend that tube without breaking it. It may be possible to remove it but it's pressed pretty far into the case, so I imagine it'd be a #$%* to get out without damaging anything. Go with bwaller's suggestion, that's what I'd do.

So why DO you need a 90 degree bend there anyway?

mystic_1

timdhawk · « **Reply #4 on:** April 17, 2009, 09:12:10 pm »

Sorry... i always do that. Bike is a 78 cb750. I am doing a cafe project with a custom oil tank and the 'to and from' lines run in front of that tube without enough room to run the hose from it. i need to plumb that vent line back to the oil tank like it was when stock. Having the vent hose run up instead of out is needed at this point.

754 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 18, 2009, 12:19:01 am »

I think it is cast in. If you remove the bulge, drill a 90 deg fitting & solder on, I think you can get anything to fit..

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #6 on:** April 18, 2009, 12:56:52 am »

IF the motor is going to be apart i suppose you could drill it out, i wouldnt do it though, not unless the cases have been split and you can get all the shavings and other nasty bits out. maybe even drill/tap the hole for an an fitting?

markjenn · « **Reply #7 on:** April 18, 2009, 01:10:03 am »

I would think you could find a 90-deg rubber elbow or something similar. Not sure if that's going to give you the clearance you need though.

This fitting is pressed into the cases. You're asking for trouble trying to pull it out and bending is completely out of the question. You could saw it off if you left enough of a spigot to get a hose and clamp on it.

Honestly, if you're doing this much fabrication for a cafe project, I'd try and re-route your oil lines from your tank. Do the job right, don't hack it up.

- Mark

timdhawk · « **Reply #8 on:** April 18, 2009, 07:19:42 am »

thanx for the replies. i appreaciate it.
i actually have a spare case already so shavings won't be an issue. and as far as re-routing the lines...sigh...form over function applies to that one. the whole tank being where it is dictates where and how the lines run.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 18, 2009, 08:37:40 am »

Not sure how much this will help but when I painted my brake caliper I used a spard foam earplug that I could mash down and insert into the hole, hold it there until it expandes back out and it covered all that was important. Maybe you can do the same for the hole to that, and put an ear plug in it and stop any contamanation. Then just pull the plug out with needle nose pliers when done, or even use a wet/dry vacuum.

kghost · « **Reply #10 on:** April 18, 2009, 09:54:20 am »

Looks to me that the oil lines come out of the tank on the wrong side.

Yours come out on the left.....

timdhawk · « **Reply #11 on:** April 18, 2009, 11:11:18 am »

Quote from: kghost on April 18, 2009, 09:54:20 am

Looks to me that the oil lines come out of the tank on the wrong side.

Yours come out on the left.....

If i understand what you mean (not sure i do), because of the rigidity of the braided line and the length of the attached fittings, it make it impossible to be any closer to the right. With the location of the tank, the bottom is the only place the lines will work. That unfortunately means i need to do something a little different with the case vent.

Where there's a will there's a way!

kghost · « **Reply #12 on:** April 18, 2009, 12:14:24 pm »

Quote from: timdhawk on April 18, 2009, 07:19:42 am

thanx for the replies. i appreaciate it.
i actually have a spare case already so shavings won't be an issue. and as far as re-routing the lines...sigh...form over function applies to that one. the whole tank being where it is dictates where and how the lines run.

Yeah well you need shorter hoses and the fittings in the bottom of the tank need to be on the right.

All the lines attatch to the right side of the engine anyways.

Whats your outlet (from the tank) doing over on the left?

I comment on this only because I'm building an aluminium tank at the moment.

bwaller · « **Reply #13 on:** April 18, 2009, 12:18:19 pm »

You're looking back to front guys, lines are on the right.

Alan F. · « **Reply #14 on:** April 18, 2009, 01:04:32 pm »

well depending on the length of the vent nipple, you could file or hacksaw out a little 'V' from the top of the tube (without cutting through the bottom of the tube) then bend the tube upward 90 degrees, then solder it up with acid core solder and flux (it's steel right?) then you'd have your low profile 90 degree bend and hopefully enough length to still get your vent line on.

If you go with this method, you could alternatively cut the fitting off leaving a 45 degree edge, then solder on another steel fitting (with a 45 degree edge) of similar size and function to attach your vent line to.

I'd recommend soldering rather than brazing, soldering temps will be in the 700 degree range, brazing temps will be higher and may compromise you cases.

Then there's always JB weld...

timdhawk · « **Reply #15 on:** April 18, 2009, 03:15:10 pm »

Quote from: kghost on April 18, 2009, 12:14:24 pm

Quote from: timdhawk on April 18, 2009, 07:19:42 am
thanx for the replies. i appreaciate it.
i actually have a spare case already so shavings won't be an issue. and as far as re-routing the lines...sigh...form over function applies to that one. the whole tank being where it is dictates where and how the lines run.

Yeah well you need shorter hoses and the fittings in the bottom of the tank need to be on the right.

All the lines attatch to the right side of the engine anyways.

Whats your outlet (from the tank) doing over on the left?

I comment on this only because I'm building an aluminium tank at the moment.

i think your thinking my tank is in the rear of the bike right in front of the rear wheel. the pic is taken facing the front of the bike. the carbs are behind the tank as you see it in the above pic. My lines are going to the right of the motor. here:

does that help?

kghost · « **Reply #16 on:** April 18, 2009, 03:54:39 pm »

Yeah thats what I thought.

You have an interference problem because your tank outlets are on the left side over by the chain.

If they were exiting on the right you would

A. Not have a problem with the nipple on the back of the motor.

B. Have shorter lines.

C. Have a tidier installation.

D. Would make it easier to attatch the hoses.

Additionally you'll need standpipes in the tank like the original.

You need a short standpipe on the inlet so your not picking up sludge in the bottom of the tank.

You need a taller return standpipe so your not stirring up said sludge and stuff in the bottom of the tank.

The taller standpipe also assures that the oil circulates and cools. before it gets picked up again by the inlet.

From the photo you just posted it looks like there was a circular bung on the right....

timdhawk · « **Reply #17 on:** April 18, 2009, 04:10:30 pm »

in the latest version of the tank most to all of those issues are addressed.
the tank has a channel over/around/by the chain for more than adequate clearance.
i have the taller stand pipe on the return and a shorter one for the feed. (the above pic is older before i added some height to the feed).
there was no bung on the right... welding error.

if there was a way to have the fittings on the right side i would have been all over that. but as it is, to keep the same I.D. as the OE oil lines and fittings on the motor, and be able to run braided hose with AN fittings; thats the only place on this tank they could go. As it is now it is very tight and there is no give or take on the hose length.

My only real issue now is plumbing the case vent back to the tank and where to place it.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #18 on:** April 18, 2009, 04:18:35 pm »

any idea how close in volume that custom tank is to original? i REALLY like how that goes into the frame. if you dont mind i might like to use that same idea for my k-4 when it comes back apart, now that i've decided to go in a different direction with the build.

Alan F. · « **Reply #19 on:** April 18, 2009, 05:44:09 pm »

that right side view of the tank in the frame is really nice, I hope you find a simple and effective solution. I can't wait to see the finished bike. Keep up the great work.

Frankencake · « **Reply #20 on:** April 18, 2009, 06:33:45 pm »

It would be best if you can check the thickness of that area in your spare cases. Cut it off flush and tap it for a 1/4 NPT. Ease it in with plenty of dope on the threads. Don't crack your housing. If you have 7/16 or better in thickness you should be good. If you don't have a lot of meat there you could fabricate a 90º fitting and use fine threads that would just bite in to the steel of the existing pipe. Use an oil impervious thread locker and don't overtighten. It's just crankcase pressure there. No big deal. (Or let the oil and vapor blow all over your rear tire. Your choice. It might make for some interesting drift riding.)

Don R · « **Reply #21 on:** April 18, 2009, 08:59:10 pm »

If the tube was close to 3/8" or 1/2" OD [copper tube size] you could cut it off and use a compression 90* elbow.

timdhawk · « **Reply #22 on:** April 19, 2009, 08:36:32 am »

feel free to copy. The sincerest form of flattery is imitation. Im still working out a few kinks (hence the post) but i think it will work nice when all said and done.

Quote from: fuzzybutt on April 18, 2009, 04:18:35 pm

any idea how close in volume that custom tank is to original? i REALLY like how that goes into the frame. if you dont mind i might like to use that same idea for my k-4 when it comes back apart, now that i've decided to go in a different direction with the build.

When i cut and folded the tank it was over the stock volume: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=46329.0
But now with all the little mods done, id say its real close to the stock volume

Quote from: Don R on April 18, 2009, 08:59:10 pm

If the tube was close to 3/8" or 1/2" OD [copper tube size] you could cut it off and use a compression 90* elbow.

It is 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID... thats a pretty good idea. thanx

luder · « **Reply #23 on:** April 19, 2009, 10:38:54 am »

You know that looks quite nice...luder

goon 1492 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 20, 2009, 10:02:29 am »

Will your chain guard still go under there? If not I would take in consideration of what happens if the chain breaks and if it will slap a hole in the bottom of that and make for a greasy slippery stop, not critising the tank cause it's kewl

, just being careful for ya.

Now you need a 1/2" thick heat sink mounted to the back with a separate tunnel ram to blow air onto it and led lights for the nighttime light show, ya know kinda like the old mustangs had for their rear brakes, and of course you need to see the heat sink from the side of the bike to show its kewlness.

News:

Author Topic: I need to bend this... how best to do it? (Read 3930 times)

fuzzybutt

fuzzybutt