Topic: Valve Spring Compressor??? What are you guys using???

[Ryan 550k]

I'm having a mechanic buddy of mine change the valve seals on my cb550.  The cylinder head and cover is off the bike already, this is one of the few remaining things I'm needing to do before I throw the engine back together.  What are you guys using to compress the valve springs in order to change the seals???  Someone several months ago suggested a compressor from Harbor Freight but it's not available anymore. 

Wow, this post is wordy huh?

[Alan F.]

here ya go.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44801.0

[OldSchool_IsCool]

I ended up using a hefty C-clamp with a U-shaped metal band to give me access to the retainers.  Worked pretty well!

[fmctm1sw]

I ended up using a hefty C-clamp with a U-shaped metal band to give me access to the retainers.  Worked pretty well!

I use something like that too.  I bought this at sears but it will only work on my intake (or is it exhaust?) side on my 350F.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947627000P?keyword=valve+spring

[Big Jay]

[kvallelunga]

+1 on the Sears unit. It worked flawlessly on all the heads/valves I've ever needed.

Kevin V.

[buffalogt750]

I changed the valve seals on my '76 550K with the head on the bike. Remove valve cover and spark plugs. Insert a piece of rope through the spark plug hole while piston is down, leave some rope hanging out for removal later. Turn engine slowly to push rope up to hold valves in place. If you put a socket on the retainer and rap it once or twice with a hammer, the split locks will fall out. Make sure you cover the engine to keep them from falling in. Remove spring and change your seal. Do both valves on that cylinder. On reassembly, I use a socket with a space ground out of the bottom to access the split locks and a notch ground in the top of it for prying down on with a prybar or long screwdriver (notch is to keep prybar in place on top of socket). Put a short wood block like a 2x4 under the top frame rail to pry against and pry down on the socket on top of the retainer to compress the spring and install split locks. Put a little grease on the valve to help hold them in place while you release the pressure on the retainer. Turn the engine backwards a little and pull the rope out. Tap the top of the valve stems to make sure the split locks are seated well. Now do the other cylinders. The springs are not very difficult to compress and if your head gasket is not leaking, why pull the head. Again, be sure to keep the engine covered to prevent split locks from falling in.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Uh... I don't think us garage monkeys have that kind of money Jay.

[Big Jay]

The title of the thread is "What do you guys use" 

[malcolmgb]

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht459-hd-valve-spring-compressor
This is what I used, perfect for the job, I have seen it on Ebay in the US I think the the seller was called 'sportingforless'

[Ryan 550k]

So just out of convenience at this point I'm gonna try this first.  There's a Harbor Freight pretty close to my place.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92900

If it doesn't work I'll probably check out the Sears option that fmctm1sw mentioned, thanks man.
Down the line it sure would be nice to have that Sporting for less compressor.  That looks very nice indeed!

Thanks guys, you've been a heck of a lotta help.  Hope everyone is well

[OldSchool_IsCool]

R550,

I got a compressor like that from Sears.  I couldn't get the fingers deep enough into the spring wells to work.  Luckily I had the C-clap style handy.  I suggest while you are at HF, get and 8" or 10" C-clamp and maybe a cheap socket to cut so you have a Plan B.

[mark]

It works pretty well as a drill press too.


I also have the c-clamp type but it's way too big for most m/c stuff.

[lordmoonpie]

I use a Sykes Pickavant one - £20 form Halfords in the UK and it's so far worked on everything from my 50cc ducati classic (valves the size of a dime) to those on a 1098 Ducati....not bad for the money and I adapted it for getting the forks apart on my XV750 too where you have to push the fork tops down to get at the retaining circlip.

[Ryan 550k]

Old School you were totally on the money.  The Compressor I picked up from Harbor Freight didn't work for the exact reason you mentioned.  I'll be going the C-clamp route today.  Wish me luck!

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Luck! 

[Ryan 550k]

You know, before doing something that I've never attempted, like changing valve seals, I'm convinced it's gonna be really difficult.  It wasn't......was super, super easy!  Using a big C-clamp was def the way to go.  Had my buddy show me how to do the first one and I was off and running.  Anyway, thanks guys.

[minimo]

Here's my ghetto valve compression tool setup using an 8" C-clamp, a spring clamp and a wood block. I used another smaller C-clamp to keep the spring clamp opened wide enough to allow for access around the stem to reach for the clips. Hope this helps. Real easy set up/removal 

[754]

+2 on the drill press, just make a tool to fit the valve coolar and spacer below the valve head...

[Dimitri13]

$5 valve spring compressor.

[minimo]

Dimitri13, that's sweet! What is that exactly? I see internal threads.

[Dimitri13]

I'm not exactly sure what it was, just something I had laying around that fit perfectly. Just cut a window in it to fit the needlenose pliers in. The threads aren't used, it's just pushing down on the retainer.

The arms on my c-clamp were long enough to fit on both sides.

[754]

 He used a pipe coupler...

[minimo]

Aha! Good eye, 754. I'm gonna Try that B-)

[754]

 What I dont like is using that on the SWIVEL end;
 I used to make a rectangle piece with a notch in it..like a long U. Then I put it in the lathe and cut a taper into the open end.. it centers it on the collar. Then you take a C-clamp, mount it screwside down in a drillpress. Now find the centre of the stationary pad, and  grind a small flat, then drill and tap thru...say 1/4 NC or 5/16 NC Drill and countersink the bottom of the U and mount to the stationary pad