Painted-on stripes look better and are correct but only if PERFECTLY EXACT same color, size and position as oem. Otherwise they stand-out like a sore thumb everytime you (or anybody else thats into this stuff) looks at them.
Decals w/ clear-coat and properly placed (its ez to reposition them during application) look GREAT and are EXACT size and color as orig. Without clearcoat gasoline spills will damage them.
You'll need a 2nd tank on-hand when applying decals or painting stripes as reference (Ko or K1 w/ sunny gold stripes.) Pictures just won't do it; its 3D w/ subtle curves etc.
Candy ruby red will get darker from each spray-coat build-up, and it requires several (Again, an oem nos sample as a reference is needed to compare.)
Keep in mind, modern painters use urethane enamel color and clear (aka basecoat/clearcoat) w/ spectacular replication results but oem wasn't basecoat clearcoat, it was a silver basecoat w/ layers of candy ruby red (all lacquer) and no clearcoat. I had a local painter here in NY use oem lacquer as original (available from color-rite), he then clear coated it w/ urethane, and it came out really nice. So trying to be correct original gets silly sometimes, like the correct tire tubes and drivechain, etc.
Top muscle car restorers intentionaly replicate factory orange-peel. Kinda cool, when you think about it.
Thats the scoop on this stuff. Good luck.
Wrinkle tanks ended around 1/70. Wrinkle tanks are needed on a sandcast resto because ALL sandcasts came w/ them. On a K0, some did, some did not. Maybe UK never did, its possible because they never had production sandcasts sold at dealers when they came out in 1969, so maybe assembly line production had differences besides fenders, tailights, speedos etc for UK destination K0's..
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