Topic: Front brake question

[Trav-i]

I have a quick question reguarding the front brake on my 750.  I recently put all new guts in the caliper including new pads and bought all new fittings and line (I converted it over to AN3), and hooked up the master I got off ebay a few months back.  Well the first attempt to bleed the brake got me nowhere the master would not move any fluid.  So I assumed the guts were bad so I ordered a kit and overhauled it today (went through and cleaned all the gunk out of it and cleaned the passages) or so I thought.  I made it a point to spend a fair amount of time on the little return hole in the resivor, and then put it back together with almost the same result as last time no fluid coming out.

So what did I miss is my question.

P.S.  I noticed on a good functional master that every time i actuated the handle fluid spouted up from the return hole.  Mine does not do that, did I just not clean it well enough?  If I didn't what's the best way to really get them clean besides the small wire trick.

[Alan F.]

While cleaning the tiny hole, were you able to sight down the cylinder bore and see the end of the wire poking through?  I remember the master cyl. on my K3 had a small circle milled to the left I think of the 'tiny hole' it was somewhat distracting from the actual hole I needed to clean, which was hard to find with a blockage hiding it's location... a little scotchbrite helped me to uncover and detect its actual location.

To be sure it was actually clear I turned out the lights and shined a penlite into the reservoir while looking down the cylinder bore for that pinhole of light to be visible.

[Trav-i]

No, I didn't actually see it in the bore, but that actually makes sense.  Guess it's back to the shop tomorrow to try again.

[technojock]

Not all master cylinders spit when activated.  Did it do this when it was working?

Anyway try pumping it up then crack the banjo bolt a little at the master cylinder.  A bike master cylinder is too small to move that much air out against gravity, so you have to bleed it at the top to get the bulk of the air out.  I'm not sure why master cylinders banjo bolts don't have bleeder screws, it should would make things easier (and less messy.)

Tony

[bikebitzofvt]

technojock ~ They make banjo bolts with bleeders in them in 10 X 1.25 Honda size.  Check goodrich, galfer, and maybe probolt, too.

Helps a lot in getting a good bleed.

Trav-i ~ did you make sure the line itself is clear?  I usually hook them up the the air compressor (outside, it's messy) and "prove" them with a few blasts of air.