Topic: Holy stiff throttle and clutch Batman!!!

[cleveland]

I have finally put the drag bars on my bike, but the controls are very stiff now.  When I put the bars on, I replaced the throttle cables and the clutch cable with new ones.

Will getting shorter cables fix this buy cutting down on the number of bends in the cable? 

Here is a pic for reference.







 
Yes, I know......the header is rusty.  That's one ot the next steps in the project.  Also, should I lube new cables?  I would think that they are smooth new and lubing would only be done a couple times a season as usual. 

Thanks!

[Duke McDukiedook]

Those are some pretty severe bends in those cables.

You'll need to buy some shorter ones or route them to where they don't bend that much.

[ev0lve]

Don't know if this'll be too helpful but I routed the throttle cables out front around the front of the fork and the clutch over the headlight bucket and it works pretty well.

[cleveland]

Iggy, are those stock length cables?

[Scrubs]

I have a controversial theory.....For the throttle at least.

Remove your bar end mirror and see if that frees it up. Sometimes the mirror mount rubs on the
rubber of the grip. If it does free it up trim down the grip and put the mirrors back on.

[ev0lve]

Iggy, are those stock length cables?

Stock on a 750 but I'd think the routing should be similar for you.

[cleveland]

I have a controversial theory.....For the throttle at least.

Remove your bar end mirror and see if that frees it up. Sometimes the mirror mount rubs on the
rubber of the grip. If it does free it up trim down the grip and put the mirrors back on.

Actually, I thought the same at first.  So I took it around the block with out mirrors, but it was the same.   

Iggy, are those stock length cables?

Stock on a 750 but I'd think the routing should be similar for you.

Cool, I'll give it a shot.

[Donzon]

Ya, all those loops will cause a problem.  I had to tinker around quite a bit with the cable routing to get smooth action when I had drag bars on.  Ended up shortening the cables and trying to get as straight a line as possible without binding on turns.  Never had any problems when I went to clubmans, the drag bars seem to be very fussy about that kinda thing.

Don

[heffay]

proper length cables should fix the problem.

every bend in a cable causes drag (friction) between cable and housing... reduce the  severity of bends and the amount of bends, and you should be much better off.

[cleveland]

the drag bars seem to be very fussy about that kinda thing.

Your telling me!  I had to unscrew one side of my tach so the master cylinder would fit.  Now it's crooked!  Oh well, one thing at a time.

How did you shorten the cables?

[Donzon]

the drag bars seem to be very fussy about that kinda thing.

Your telling me!  I had to unscrew one side of my tach so the master cylinder would fit.  Now it's crooked!  Oh well, one thing at a time.

How did you shorten the cables?

Cut them and re-soldered the ends. You have to be very confident in your soldering though, because a bad joint there will cause some tense moments on the road!  Carb cables are no probs, but the clutch has some pretty heavy pressure on it.  The clutch cable iis much longer so you can usually find some way to route it without resorting to cutting.  I even found that strapping the clutch cable to the frame caused too much drag. Cables, especially worn ones, are very particular about any bends, even minor ones, and if they have worn in one position, hate to be moved.

I actually reversed the angled fitting at the master cylinder to make the hose fit.  A real pain it the ass to fit all the stuff on the bars for sure.  I found drag bars uncomfortable and ended up going with clubmans after one season anyway, and will likely try clipons next.

[cleveland]

Problem solved!!!

I decided to pull the control to check for any pinching and sure enough the cable was caught up in the control.  Twists smooth as can be now. 

Thanks guys!

[heffay]

and the clutch?

[cleveland]

That's next.