Topic: How do I get these cases apart???

[lordwhimsey]

How do I get my CB550 cases apart? 

I've removed the bolts in all the locations I've circled below and given it an experimental whack with a bit of wood but it still seems pretty solid!

Am I missing something; is there a secret hidden bolt somewhere? I've included pictures of the sides in case someone can spot something that I should have removed.

[kabuki]

Download the manual in the FAQ section. This will probably steer you to a bolt inside the oil pan area. I think that's the one your missing (you didn't circle it anyhow). After that they should pry apart.

Good luck

[tinyrobot]

Second picture shows part of the shifter linkage that cross the case halves, that needs to come off.

It's like playing wheres Waldo, I'm keep looking to see if anything else is there!

[lordwhimsey]

Download the manual in the FAQ section. This will probably steer you to a bolt inside the oil pan area. I think that's the one your missing (you didn't circle it anyhow). After that they should pry apart.

Thanks, but I can't seem to locate it even with the manual!

Can anyone tell me how to find this mystery bolt?

[tinyrobot]

picture 1: follow the ridge from the oil pump screen location to the right.  Just as it T bones the inside case wall go toward the back of the case (or bottom of picture) 3/4' of an inch.  there should be a bolt right there.

[ttr400]

Don't know the 550's that well but it looks like you would strip it the same as the 400F. so to split the case the motor should be upside down so the crank and gearbox remain in the top half of the case. So looking at your pics so far, you need to remove the shift shaft etc, i would also remove the kick starter shaft. You must remove the primary shaft as this is in the lower case and is connected via the primary chain to the crank.
Don't know of any other bolts.

Kevin

[byfbo]

Yeah i got a 550k, there is one bolt in inside the case, oil pan side.  Also your main shaft looks like its still in that needs to be pulled out.  The main shaft is chained to the crank, the crank is in the top case and the main is in the bottom case so if you don't pull that out you wont get separation.

[kabuki]

I have a honda shop manual and a clymer. In both this is listed step by step. It looks like you're trying to go at this out of order.

You will need to remove the primary shaft( the lower rear engine mount threads right in and you can use a big fender washer and a short piece of pipe to slide hammer that shaft out)

The kickstarter can't come out until the cases are split.

keep at it...

[garagedoreen]

i think theres a bolt in side of the oil pan. did you get that one??

[lordwhimsey]

Thanks for all your help and good suggestions.

There was a hole for a bolt under the oil pan but no bolt in it! Strange, the bolt's listed in the parts fiche but was mysterously absent on my engine!

Anyway, I removed the the shifter linkage and "Ta da" the cases practically fell apart. No need to remove the primary shaft, everythings in the bottom case.

So in summary it seems the correct proceedure for splitting CB550 cases is:

A) Remove every bolt you can find on the outside of the cases.

B) Remove single bolt under the oil pan (if present!).

C) Remove shifter linkage.

D) Strike firmly with a lump of wood and lift away upper case.

And then in my case; deal with the un-holy mess left by a broken con rod!!! 

Thanks guys.

[moham]

Thanks for all your help and good suggestions.

There was a hole for a bolt under the oil pan but no bolt in it! Strange, the bolt's listed in the parts fiche but was mysterously absent on my engine!

Anyway, I removed the the shifter linkage and "Ta da" the cases practically fell apart. No need to remove the primary shaft, everythings in the bottom case.

So in summary it seems the correct proceedure for splitting CB550 cases is:

A) Remove every bolt you can find on the outside of the cases.

B) Remove single bolt under the oil pan (if present!).

C) Remove shifter linkage.

D) Strike firmly with a lump of wood and lift away upper case.

And then in my case; deal with the un-holy mess left by a broken con rod!!! 

Thanks guys.

I wouldn't exactly call that "correct" procedure.  It may have worked for you but I believe your steps are incomplete, out of order and wrong. There is a specific pattern for removing/installing the bolts that hold the cases together and for removing the shift arm, etc.

Honda has outlined the "correct" method in their factory manual. I don't doubt that there are a couple of people out there that are so intuitive and mechanically adept that they don't need to follow the instructions set out by the people that built the motor but I am not one. And I don't want somebody to find this thread and assume that what you have done is "correct"...

[martino1972]

well,you got it apart that way but it will be impossible to put back together that way cause your shift forks and shift drum are still in the upper case...good luck lining that back up in there..

 

[ttr400]

Yes as per Moham and Martino. Completely the wrong procedure for stripping the motor as all the internals must be in the top case for assembly.......you will still have to remove the primary shaft etc.
At least you have it apart now to strip and clean all parts before re-assembly.

Kevin

[mystic_1]

Let's see some pics of the conrod carnage

mystic_1

[lordwhimsey]

I wouldn't exactly call that "correct" procedure.  It may have worked for you but I believe your steps are incomplete, out of order and wrong. There is a specific pattern for removing/installing the bolts that hold the cases together and for removing the shift arm, etc.

Honda has outlined the "correct" method in their factory manual. I don't doubt that there are a couple of people out there that are so intuitive and mechanically adept that they don't need to follow the instructions set out by the people that built the motor but I am not one. And I don't want somebody to find this thread and assume that what you have done is "correct"...

I did say "summary".

[lordwhimsey]

Let's see some pics of the conrod carnage

mystic_1

Here you go:



I found a nut and bolt in the oil pan and the other was still attached so it looks like one just undid itself and came off! Smashed the piston and the barrel too!

[lordwhimsey]

well,you got it apart that way but it will be impossible to put back together that way cause your shift forks and shift drum are still in the upper case...good luck lining that back up in there..

 

I don't understand; I already put it back together! It was a bit fiddly though! 

[mystic_1]

Impressive!

Pics make it look like the threads on the bolts are stripped off.  Is this the case or is it just an illusion?

I've been told on here not to re-use conrod nuts and bolts because they fatigue when you install them.  Wonder if that may have been a factor?

mystic_1

[moham]

I did say "summary".

I hate to sound like a nit-picking douche bag (not really, I'm actually fine with it) but you also said the words "the" and "correct" and "procedure". I'm glad you got the help you needed when you're custom procedure failed you, I was merely trying to let you know (as others did) that there is a better way to accomplish your end goal (assuming that goal is a working motor)...

[lordwhimsey]

I did say "summary".

I hate to sound like a nit-picking douche bag (not really, I'm actually fine with it) but you also said the words "the" and "correct" and "procedure". I'm glad you got the help you needed when you're custom procedure failed you, I was merely trying to let you know (as others did) that there is a better way to accomplish your end goal (assuming that goal is a working motor)...

Hey, that's no problem, I can use all the help I can get. I'm used to working on Harleys, the worlds only quadruple underhead cam engine so this 4 cylinder sohc thing is like dark magic to me!

I'd appreciate it if you could set things straight and tell me the “correct”, correct procedure so I do it properly next time. 

[bryanj]

I will lay odds that that rod did not have the big end nuts torqued propery which would tie in with the missing bolt.
I.E. the P.O. fubard the job

[lordwhimsey]

I will lay odds that that rod did not have the big end nuts torqued propery which would tie in with the missing bolt.
I.E. the P.O. fubard the job

I think you're spot on. The threads were fine.

[moham]

I did say "summary".

I hate to sound like a nit-picking douche bag (not really, I'm actually fine with it) but you also said the words "the" and "correct" and "procedure". I'm glad you got the help you needed when you're custom procedure failed you, I was merely trying to let you know (as others did) that there is a better way to accomplish your end goal (assuming that goal is a working motor)...

Hey, that's no problem, I can use all the help I can get. I'm used to working on Harleys, the worlds only quadruple underhead cam engine so this 4 cylinder sohc thing is like dark magic to me!

I'd appreciate it if you could set things straight and tell me the “correct”, correct procedure so I do it properly next time. 

That's ok, looks like you've got it all figured out.

[mystic_1]

The "correct" correct procedure, is in the service manual

In other words, RTFM!   

mystic_1