Author Topic: Flying J CB550 Cafe Racer Magazine. (Read 182033 times)

Flying J · « **Reply #150 on:** November 19, 2010, 09:51:31 PM »

TAbaker. And i dont mind sharing his info. Like i have sadi before, their customer service is the best. His prices are beyond reasonable. I think when its all said and done i will have a polished tank and seat for less then other "Cafe builders" sell steel. And that includes shipping to america.

Flying J · « **Reply #151 on:** November 20, 2010, 04:32:42 PM »

Welded gussets on the frame today. Not as much for strength as for aesthetics.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #152 on:** November 20, 2010, 08:56:34 PM »

Make sure there is a good strong brace between the rear shocks mate or that back end will flex like a #$%*.....

Mick

Flying J · « **Reply #153 on:** November 20, 2010, 11:14:40 PM »

I think there will be enough once the rear hoop is welded on. Its not on the bike right now because i sent it to the UK to have a seat built to fit. Im also going to put a plate of aluminum where the mud gaurd used to be, and a plate under the seat. That should stiffen things up.

Tintop · « **Reply #154 on:** November 21, 2010, 06:01:46 PM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on November 20, 2010, 11:14:40 PM

I think there will be enough once the rear hoop is welded on. Its not on the bike right now because i sent it to the UK to have a seat built to fit. Im also going to put a plate of aluminum where the mud gaurd used to be, and a plate under the seat. That should stiffen things up.

You could also weld up those seams were the neck meets the rear frame, and any other ones you can find. That will help stiffen it quite a bit.

Flying J · « **Reply #155 on:** November 21, 2010, 06:11:30 PM »

yeah i will do that. i have to find stuf to keep me busy while i wait for my seat.

I real want a switch like this but made for 7/8 bars. Anybody?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #156 on:** November 21, 2010, 08:02:41 PM »

Your 1" switch assembly would only need a shim of 1/16 to make it fit the bars?
You could use some soft aluminum or a sheet of neoprene gasket material to make the shim.
You aren't going to be torquing on the assembly...just needs held on securely...
The neoprene would appear to be a gasket...

David

Flying J · « **Reply #157 on:** November 21, 2010, 08:09:19 PM »

Yeah but for $75 i think i can come up with something better

Flying J · « **Reply #158 on:** November 22, 2010, 08:10:18 PM »

So i have 2 sets of carbs. Set one are the PD carbs that i was running on the bike before. When i picked up my spare motor it came with a set of the older carbs but i didnt see any markings on them. The PD are clean and worked ok but require a choke cable. So i would have to find a place to hide the cable. The other carbs have the choke lever on the carbs. But need to be cleaned for sure. Is there any advantage to running the PD carbs?

Tintop · « **Reply #159 on:** November 23, 2010, 03:13:43 AM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on November 22, 2010, 08:10:18 PM

So i have 2 sets of carbs. Set one are the PD carbs that i was running on the bike before. When i picked up my spare motor it came with a set of the older carbs but i didnt see any markings on them. The PD are clean and worked ok but require a choke cable. So i would have to find a place to hide the cable. The other carbs have the choke lever on the carbs. But need to be cleaned for sure. Is there any advantage to running the PD carbs?

As the PD's were pollution carbs, there is probably a bit more adjustablility in the older ones. That said, they are the same size, so would offer no direct performance advantage. What about using a very short cable for your choke that you could hid under the seat / tank; or mount like your key on the opposite side.

sinister902 · « **Reply #160 on:** November 23, 2010, 06:32:06 AM »

I like TinTop's idea for a short choke cable to a bracket like your key....

Flying J · « **Reply #161 on:** November 23, 2010, 06:44:01 AM »

Thats what i was thinking as far as the short cable goes. I have the bracket that the choke mounted to the triple with and was going to put it under the seat so that it would pull to the rear. But if running the older carbs is just the same and it eliminates one more thing under the seat that i have to try and hide then i think thats the way to go. Time to start cleaning.

Tintop · « **Reply #162 on:** November 23, 2010, 01:25:47 PM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on November 23, 2010, 06:44:01 AM

Thats what i was thinking as far as the short cable goes. I have the bracket that the choke mounted to the triple with and was going to put it under the seat so that it would pull to the rear. But if running the older carbs is just the same and it eliminates one more thing under the seat that i have to try and hide then i think thats the way to go. Time to start cleaning.

Completely understand the desire to keep things clean & simple.

Does that mean your PD's are available? If they are 46C's, I would be interested.

Flying J · « **Reply #163 on:** November 23, 2010, 03:54:04 PM »

They are 46C's but i cant let them go till im satisfied that the older carbs work well. But if that day ever comes ill let you know.

Tintop · « **Reply #164 on:** November 23, 2010, 04:08:25 PM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on November 23, 2010, 03:54:04 PM

They are 46C's but i cant let them go till im satisfied that the older carbs work well. But if that day ever comes ill let you know.

One thing to keep in mind, the throttle bell crank is different on the PD's, from the earlier carbs. You probably have to replace your throttle cables as well.

Flying J · « **Reply #165 on:** November 23, 2010, 04:33:07 PM »

Im going to have custom cables made by a local company. That way they are a perfect fit. Im not running the stock throttle anyway

Tintop · « **Reply #166 on:** November 23, 2010, 06:10:35 PM »

Flying J · « **Reply #167 on:** November 24, 2010, 08:44:38 AM »

Oh man i found the switches i want. but at around $150 im going to have to wait.

sinister902 · « **Reply #168 on:** November 24, 2010, 09:26:42 AM »

that is a STUPID clean Switch peice!!!! I love it!

Ouch · « **Reply #169 on:** November 24, 2010, 10:16:21 AM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on November 24, 2010, 08:44:38 AM

Oh man i found the switches i want. but at around $150 im going to have to wait.

LOVE IT!!!!...that's unique!!...ha it should be a hidden starter switch...that would be fun to find!

Flying J · « **Reply #170 on:** November 24, 2010, 04:19:57 PM »

So instead of spending $150 on the above switches I polished up another switch set and ran the wire through the bars. I know that the stock bars have cut outs in them so i did the same to my clip ons. Anybody think this will compromise their strength, being that they are aluminum and not steel?

HalfFastMoto · « **Reply #171 on:** November 24, 2010, 04:22:49 PM »

Looks great!

As for strength, if you're worried about it you can use a slug to reinforce that section of the clip on

Tintop · « **Reply #172 on:** November 24, 2010, 06:33:16 PM »

Can't see that you should suffer any lost of strength. The switch is effectively acting as a clamping support for that area of the bar.

swellguy · « **Reply #173 on:** November 26, 2010, 11:41:06 PM »

Quote from: ffjmoore on November 24, 2010, 08:44:38 AM

Oh man i found the switches i want. but at around $150 im going to have to wait.

I was looking at these too. Made a set from about $8 worth of Radio Shack switches and a scrap of 1" chrome handlebar, plus about $10 worth of 40 amp auto relays. Trouble is 7/8" bars are just about not deep enough (with thick walls) for everything to fit nicely. The cool ones are Posh from Japan, about $110. You can find Chinese ones on eBay for about $50 minus the wires.

Flying J · « **Reply #174 on:** November 27, 2010, 04:52:54 AM »

Yeah those are the ones from posh. My next build will have 1"bars so I can use those switches, internal throttle and inverted levers. But that s the next build. For now I focus on this one.

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Author Topic: Flying J CB550 Cafe Racer Magazine. (Read 182033 times)