Author Topic: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie (Read 317212 times)

RickB · « **Reply #275 on:** January 26, 2011, 11:28:41 PM »

I've just noticed I've got the covers on wrong. At least I think so. I assume they should all be facing the same way? I'm out of town for the next week or two and don't have the carbs to double check.

Rick.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #276 on:** January 26, 2011, 11:49:41 PM »

Yes, they should all face the same way. The throttle linkage inside should give you a clue as to how they go. Full throttle should lift the linkage up to its higest point and show you which way they should go.

I just checked your pics on page one, looks like the high point of the caps go towards the motor.

Also, I just realized it's been almost two years since you started. You're almost there buddy.

ivanhoew · « **Reply #277 on:** January 30, 2011, 02:31:29 AM »

rick you probably know this but i thought id check ,

are the needle valves on the float bowls spring loaded ?if so ,then the float height checking probably has to be done with the carb held so the float does not compress that spring in the end of the needle .so youd hold the carb so the float hang down towards the floor ,and then just tilt the carb a little so the float tang just brushes the needle ..then measure the gap .

sorry if this is really patronising .

regards
robert

RickB · « **Reply #278 on:** January 30, 2011, 03:59:58 PM »

Robert,

Thanks for the advice. Not patronising at all. When you're a complete novice like me, it's all learning.

I was using a float gauge that I made up for 22mm. So unless I'm mistaken, there's really only one way to measure it. If it's 22mm high and just touching (but not depressing) the float valve, it's 22mm high no matter the orientation of the carbs as the gauge holds the float (provided they're not upside down of course).

When I get to some fuel in them, I'll soon find out if I've done it correct I guess.

Rick.

timbo63 · « **Reply #279 on:** January 31, 2011, 03:56:02 AM »

Rick - Float height for CB400F carbs is 21mm. Just checked Honda, Haynes and Clymer manuals.. all the same 21mm. However....... read my last post on yahoo group, external float checking is worth doing. :-)

Toxic · « **Reply #280 on:** January 31, 2011, 04:23:10 AM »

For sure you want to check the float hieght before installing.

I thought my floats were set properly but I used this method and found one of them was not right.

TWINFIN · « **Reply #281 on:** January 31, 2011, 10:54:00 AM »

Toxic --

Hard for me to tell what method that is from your pic? A side pic and/or details. Thanks

)

TWINFIN · « **Reply #282 on:** January 31, 2011, 10:54:36 AM »

Quote from: RickB on December 21, 2010, 04:07:39 PM

G'day again,

So here I was trying to remove a float bowl screw that had stuck. I broke the head off of it trying to remove it, so I tried an easy out extracting drill bit. This time I followed the instructions more carefully and used a spanner. No matter, just like last time, it broke. So now I'm going to need a new float bowl as there's no way I'm getting both the stuck screw and the broken extracting drill bit out.

Rick.

In my experience with the "not so easy"-out bits ...never use any of the auto store brands (namely the smaller sized ones). They have always made a bad situation worse!! I broke one off inside the notorious cam adjuster hold screw. I got lucky and at a later time got out the broken ez out. Then used a quality one with no problem. Unless they are Snap-On brand or equivalent ...dont buy or use them!! EVER! Snap-On aren't expensive from there web site. Buy all the smaller sizes they offer while your at it. Shipping to outside USA???

The brass screws are soft so that's gonna be a difficult one. I wonder if light heat helps?? Might have to just find another bowl replacement?

Your bike documentation is superb! Looks like you have a deep pocket on it too. Lucky bike. Saved from the dead by an Ausy.

timbo63 · « **Reply #283 on:** February 01, 2011, 12:33:47 AM »

Hi Rick,

these are the alternatives to Woodcraft Clipons.

http://www.zpower.com.au/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/773_615/products_id/3863

Cheers

popssss · « **Reply #284 on:** February 01, 2011, 06:52:55 PM »

Beautiful job with the carbs and seat so far. Your post is inspiring and makes me thing what my next bike will be....

Hush · « **Reply #285 on:** February 02, 2011, 01:03:35 AM »

Rick, use a really really small drill bit and drill holes either side of the easy-out piece, then use a snakes eye screw driver to undo the sucker.

Oh and remove the word "ROOKIE" from your thread, I think you've earned enough cred with this build to accept that.

ivanhoew · « **Reply #286 on:** February 02, 2011, 11:06:42 AM »

another thing you could try , is drill a small say 2mm hole on the other side ,put a thin punch down it and knock out the easy out ,then tap the 2mm hole and put a grub screw in it .

RickB · « **Reply #287 on:** February 05, 2011, 03:33:44 AM »

Thanks for all the advice on getting the screw out. I'll try remove it. It's not important right now, I got a spare float bowl from Steve at 400FourBits.co.uk and polished that up.

So I tried to get some of the electrical done today. I'm in over my head. I'm gonna' take the bike to someone this week to have it done right. I could battle over the next week and try and figure it out, but I've been told to come install the engine next Saturday. So I don't want any issues for when that happens!

On the advice of Tim I reset the carb floats to 23mm. It'll most likely run lean, but it should give me something good to start with.

I also installed some new vacuum and fuel lines I picked up from eBay. I didn't really need new hoses, but what the hell. I also corrected the covers being on the wrong way around.

A very good bloke by the name of Mark on the CB400F Yahoo user group actually gave me these tool-tray, tool-tray lid and airbox lid. He just asked that I pay shipping. What a guy! Thanks Mike.

Big news. I impulsively bought a Peel vintage race fairing from Mick at Classic Motorcycle Fibreglass up in NSW. I probably won't mount it up right away, I'd like to actually ride the thing first and show off those nice CB400F headers! I'm not sold on the shape of the windshield, but until it's on the bike I won't really be able to tell. This is the windshield that came with the fairing, I didn't even think to ask if they came in other shapes, I just assumed they all came the plain bubble shape.

I was thinking of a paint job similar to these. Either the straight silver with contrasting number plate or the two tone of the Agusta.

I'm hoping this to be a big week in terms of getting the engine in the frame, headers and exhaust on, rearsets on, electrics done and then start the thing!

Rick.

ivanhoew · « **Reply #288 on:** February 05, 2011, 06:48:35 AM »

high excitement rick , well done ..i like the mv augusta .

britz73 · « **Reply #289 on:** February 06, 2011, 05:21:10 PM »

Mate you are determined................Commend you on the effort and result so far. I even registered with this forum so I could make comment. I too have a 400/4 (1976) in the makings and having someone like yourself go through these learning experiences and having it recorded in great detail is going to be a significant benefit. I will also post pictures when I work out how too?? Keep going champ and can't wait to hear the beast come alive! ps - need parts email me, I have a few extras that I will not be needing. 1 last thing - don't add up the cost at the end of your build just ride and enjoy......................

RickB · « **Reply #290 on:** February 06, 2011, 05:54:47 PM »

Thanks for all the words of encouragement. I would have quit this project a few times over if not for the advice and support from SOHC4 members.

Britz, thanks for the offer of parts. I will be in contact if I need anything. But right now, I think I've got everything I need. I certainly don't need to spend anymore money on trick parts that I don't really need! You're right, at this point I'm ignoring the investment. I plan on having this bike for a long time. A year from now, I won't care. I don't care right now and I'm flat broke!

So with the help of my trusty mate Rhys and his ute, we took the bike up to the big smoke and dropped it off Christian at the Modern Motorcycle Company to fit off all the electrics. After years of saying I can handle the electrics, I thoroughly wimped out and thought I'd rather pay someone to have it done than run around in circles for a week. I don't want anything to delay getting the motor in the frame this Saturday.

Here's another idea a mate gave me for the fairing paint job. I think they all look great! I got a response from Mick at Classic Motorcycle Fibreglass when I queried him about getting a different windscreen:

I'm shattered!! Double bubbles, 60's Italian big time, Provini on Mondial, 3rd 250 in w/championships, if he hadn't got food poisoning in japan your poxy Hondas would have been 2nd & 3rd instead! Cheers, Mick.

So of course I'm going to ride my double bubble with pride now!

Rick.

Slams77 · « **Reply #291 on:** February 06, 2011, 09:21:16 PM »

RickB, forgive me if this has already been asked or if you have already explained, but did the 350 tank require any modification to make it work or did it fit on the 400?

RickB · « **Reply #292 on:** February 06, 2011, 09:45:41 PM »

Slams, no problems, sorry if I missed your question earlier.

Nope, it didn't require any modification at all. Fits the frame perfectly. It clears both the stock and Dyna coils and allows clearance of drag and clubman bars without any tank slapping issues.

I'm not sure, but I think it maybe a little bit (like an inch) shorter in length, but the way the tab that sits into the rubber tank holder is it still fits. So what I mean by this is that your seat might not butt up against it the same way it does on a 400F tank, yet the 350F tank still fits the frame if that makes sense.

It is quite a bit smaller in appearance than the 400F tank though. Whilst I think it actually is larger in capacity, it certainly doesn't have the appearance of being so. Putting the 350F tank on makes the bike look a lot smaller. If I did it again, I'd get a bigger tank made up I think. Like a CR style alloy tank perhaps. Something that gives the 'small Honda' a bigger look. Or find another tank that works. Like a Benelli or something maybe.

I may even consider selling my CB350F tank if you're is interested. I haven't even used it. Had it painted professionally, it's got a brand new cap, push button latch, petcock (needs rebuilding but have the kit for that).

Rick.

Slams77 · « **Reply #293 on:** February 06, 2011, 10:14:53 PM »

Thanks RickB, I am running a manx seat (short version) and I think the contours of the 350 tank would actually look nice with the style of seat. Right now I am still deciding which direction I am going in with the tank but I will PM you if I go with this tank.

RickB · « **Reply #294 on:** February 12, 2011, 06:18:18 PM »

Hi all,

This week I had the electrics sorted by Christian at Modern Motorcycle Company. It wasn't cheap, but the job was done and I'm sure giving him a bike with a 40 year old wiring harness and all the ghosts that come with it, wasn't his idea of fun.

I then took the bike over to Matt the engine mechanics house. He was a bit delayed and was finishing up the head when I got there. So we've agreed to meet up this coming Saturday and finish this sucker.

The oil pump is done. I've updated my original post on the o-rings contained in the oil pump as these aren't listed in any Honda manual or parts. Here is is again in case someone is looking for the o rings from a Honda CB400F or CB350F oil pump.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb400f-australia_model14644/partslist/E01-3.html

1: 41123516000 63mm x 2.5mm (part# 219 on the above linked fiche).
2: 91302-377-000 15mm x 2.5mm (part# 286/287 on the above linked fiche)
3 & 4: 91302044010 (superseded by 91302044013) 6.9mm x 1.5mm (part# 285 on the above linked fiche).
5. 91302-377-000 15mm x 2.5mm (part# 286/287 on the above linked fiche)
6. No part number as Honda don't sell it. However this is a 40mm x 2mm o-ring.

New valves (faced and seated), performance springs, new tensioner blades, TTR 400 billet cam chain tensioner, heavy duty cam chain and NOS camshaft. Hell yeah!

Rick.

RickB · « **Reply #295 on:** February 22, 2011, 11:00:00 PM »

Hi guys,

So Tuesday was the day. The motor went in the frame.

Once the motor was in, we promptly run into electrical problems. As soon as the neutral light was activated, the main fuse would blow. After 3-4 fours of trouble shooting, we traced the gremlin back to the headlight bucket and the neutral light wire being powered, when it was supposed to be an earth. In the process I fried the small silicone rectifier. And the starter button on the right switch block doesn't work. I will work on that later, I have a kick stater and young legs.

Hyrdro blasting looks so nice. I have to go over the kick starter though. It's beat. New spring etc. I've also got the alternator coil here to rebuild and transfer into a fresh cover.

We got oil pressure and and it's not leaking, so that's a good sign. We should be able to get it started on Saturday.

Rick.

desert rat racer · « **Reply #296 on:** February 22, 2011, 11:33:40 PM »

I just read over your build thread and seeing the transformation from rust pit to mean machine is inspirational! Keep it up cant wait to see the finished product and some vids possibly!?

-CB-Jamie- · « **Reply #297 on:** February 23, 2011, 12:28:50 AM »

Looking good, that hydro-blasting really looks the business.
I bet you can't wait to get it fired up now, won't be long though.
Thats a pretty decent looking header pipe you have there, you pick that up on ebay?

RickB · « **Reply #298 on:** February 23, 2011, 02:51:31 AM »

Thanks guys. Yep, I've already story boarded the video in my head!

As for the headers Jamie. Yep, I found a set on eBay early last year for $75. I had my brother bring them back from the US as excess baggage, didn't cost anything but him #$%*ing about it.

I don't think the guy selling them for a $75 buy it now price really knew what he had. I regularly see original headers in much worse condition sell for several hundred. This was before the DSS repo ones.

There's actually a really nice set on eBay right now for $200 Buy It Now. Yeah you can get the DSS repo ones for a similar price, but are they really the same as the originals?

Rick.

-CB-Jamie- · « **Reply #299 on:** February 23, 2011, 04:18:29 AM »

Hey Rick,

You did pretty well at $75 for an original set of pipes. Ha that must have been a funny one for your brother walking into an airport with a set of header pipes under his arm

.

I think the difference between the repo ones DSS and the originals is that the original pipes were double walled, so basically it was like a slightly smaller diameter pipe inside the outer one. This was to stop the outer pipes getting too hot which causes them to turn blue/purple from the heat. The DSS ones are just a single pipe so they will probably turn blue/purple from the heat where they come out of the block. Although some people kinda like this look too I suppose, I actually kinda prefer it this way and I'll probably end up buying a set of the repo ones from DSS eventually anyway as my one is pretty bad at the collector box.

I think thats the difference anyway so I'm open to correction on this. Also some people just have to have original parts on their bike.

Jamie

News:

Author Topic: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie (Read 317212 times)