Topic: Dear '76 cb360t, please run perfectly

[leaderbean]

So this is one of those moments when you just know the solution is simple but you are completely defeated anyways!

I can't figure out WHAT I am supposed to measure between??  The Clymer reads:

"Insert a feeler gauge between tappet adjuster screw and valve stem."  There is, of course, no picture for this one step.  

This is the first time I've ever done this, so I really don't know what to do. This is the intake valve of cylinder #1 (I think.  Sitting on the bike, it would be on your left side).  I looked at a Clymer manual at the library for the earlier Honda twins (up to '74) and they showed the feeler gauge from too far away to get any details right.  But the gauge was bent.  Is that the same for my '76?  

Thanks all for any help!!

[mlinder]

Its the space between where the tappet hits the valve stem. That's where you measure.

[cb650]

Its kind of a #$%* to do on the 360.

[leaderbean]

okay I think I'm getting it.  But...

both valves are supposed to be closed while doing this.  Does that mean that each tappet should have a very little amount of play on it before adjusting and after?  That is how I know the engine is in the right position?

I am just having a hard time figuring out the right position. 

The manual has me assessing when the valve is open or closed, but they assume that I know what that looks like.  Open = tappet at its lowest point, pressing the valve down and closed = tappet at its highest point?

[cb650]

You will be seting to marks on the rotor.   You just have to be sure of the crank revolution.
Thats when the valves will both be loose.

[leaderbean]

Thanks for the bits of advice.  I think I got it done.  I have it all broken down now and didn't get a chance to start it up.  Hopefully tomorrow. 

Thanks again

[leaderbean]

Well I guess that didn't do it.  Can't get this thing started this year!  I put new points on it, set timing, tightened cam chain tensioner, measured valve clearances, drained and replaced all fuel, got some fresh oil in it and that is it so far. 

Was riding fine all last season until the very end of the season (riding in MN).  I heard what seemed to be unusually loud noises coming from the engine case somewhere.  Kind of a constant metallic sound.  Anyways, I parked it because I didn't want to do any damage.  Then I couldn't get it started.  Sat all winter, and now I am working on it.   I really hope I didn't do something really bad like mess up some valves or something. 

For a brief period a few days ago it got closer to starting than it has in a while.  Full choke, she started up really quickly but then died.  Seemed like xtra smokey exhaust.

Any ideas??  My ear isn't trained at all so I can't claim that my observations last year were super accurate.  I see a good amount of posts on here about the 360 but I thought I'd start my own thread with some specifics about my bike.  Thanks in advance for any input!

[Scirocco88]

I'm not trying to be a smart ass, I'm just thinking very basic: do you have all 3 elements? Spark good? Fuel getting in? How is compression? I know sometimes when I'm working on a bike and I can't get it to start I try everything but overlook the simplest things.

[crazypj]

search function, this has all been covered ad nauseum.
 PJ

[leaderbean]

No smart ass-ness received at all.  I'm totally open to simple options that I may have overlooked.  Thank you. 

I understand that people get annoyed when they see the same thing posted over and over again. I'm not trying to beat a dead horse.  I just wanted to post something concerning the sounds I was hearing last year.  I thought that might provide specific clues.  Maybe it isn't very specific, though? 

[mlinder]

Well, not sure what a constant metallic sound is...

But, as said before, you need to make sure you have:

Spark

Fuel

Air

If you don't have one of those, it will never, ever run.

So check on those, eh?

[crazypj]

It sounds like you set tappets on overlap.
 Its real easy to do on 360 because motor tends to turn away from TDCC.
 you need a combination wrench which can stop against footrest/gerarchange lever to hold it in correct position
There are instructions in various threads on how to find TDCC.
Watch the intake valve, it goes down, it comes up, TDC mark is going to be compression. rotoate crank 360 deg and do other cyl.
You took it the right way so I supplied instructions (dont know how many times I've done this?)
PJ

[rchrdms]

I looked in the manual last night and it said to turn the rotor over by hand until the left intake valve opens. Turn past that point and keep turning until the LT mark lines up with the notch.Then you check the gap by loosening the lock nut and inserting the feeler gauge between the tappet (part of the rocker arm) and the valve stem.

Try the complete tune-up and check for fuel, air, and spark like the others mentioned. If you get it started, check the compression to see if there is any serious damage.


Remember also that the valve check is done with the engine cold. The rest of the tune-up is also on a cold engine, except for the compression test and balancing carbs.

Good luck.

[333]

This is where I would point out that Clymers are crap.  There are plenty of good pics in the Honda manual.  And clear instructions.

[crazypj]

Dont think so, Honda manuals are designed for Honda techs who already have at least some experience.
 Use go/no go for valve adjustment, smallest one slides in and biggest one wont fit, that pretty much guarantees your in the middle

PJ