Author Topic: Rear Disk and axel removal  (Read 1356 times)

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Offline Burke

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Rear Disk and axel removal
« on: June 01, 2009, 06:11:16 PM »
I am having a hell of a time removing my axel on my 75 CB750F. I seems that the the axes is stuck on the disk mount.
Is anything between the axel and the mount? The wheel moves free but when you move the axel the mount moves with it.

I have pounded it out a little but it should not move this hard. ???

Any help? ???

Offline BeSeeingYou

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Re: Rear Disk and axel removal
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2009, 07:33:17 PM »
From the inside out it should be wheel, spacer, brake caliper, chain adjuster straddling the swing arm, washer, and castle nut.  The axle should slide out but it is a lot of stuff to keep in alignment when removing or replacing the axle.  Just a tiny bit off and it will bind up.  It may be possible that the the aluminum has oxidized where it is in contact with the stainless steel axle and locked the two together.  This is a common reaction between these two metals but usually only when it has been long exposed to the elements.  Disconnect the support bracket from the caliper, stick a screwdriver through the axle head to hold it stationary and see if you can rock the caliper back and forth to break it loose.  Removing the brake line may give you more freedom of movement if you don't mind having to bleed the system.

Maybe were talking about two difeent thingd here.  What do you mean by the disc mount.  Any pictures?
« Last Edit: June 01, 2009, 09:44:17 PM by srust58 »

Offline Burke

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Re: Rear Disk and axel removal
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2009, 05:28:01 AM »
Caliper is what I meant by Brake mount.

I'll giver another shot today.
Thanks

Offline MCRider

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Re: Rear Disk and axel removal
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2009, 05:47:56 AM »
Following and adding to srust:

The wheel should always move free as it is on the outer races of the bearings, while the inner races of the bearings are a slip fit over the axle and may oxi-weld themselves to the axle over time.

Only if the bearings had locked up, a very serious and rare condition would you expect to see the axle turn with the wheel.

So at any exposed seem, you should try to get some penetrant into the interface between the axle and the components it slides thru. PB Blaster would be the most convenient aerosol, but acetone/ATF 50/50 in a spray bottle would be a stronger penetrant. Even if the seam seems impenetrable, spray it. WD-40 is most popular but the weakest.

Ultimately you are correct. If everything was fresh and clean, the axle should tap out with little resistance. Wailing on it probably wouldn't hurt much, but is not the most elegant of approaches.

As srust says, the aluminum of the caliper holder could oxi-dize to the axle, but some penetrant will break that bond easily as its not a chemical fusion, just crud.
Ride Safe:
Ron
1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline Burke

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Re: Rear Disk and axel removal
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2009, 08:06:04 AM »
Thanks.
The wheel does move freely on the axel. I am hoping that is is just the caliper giving me fits. ;)

Offline Beans

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Re: Rear Disk and axel removal
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2009, 08:49:12 AM »
I had the same problem on my dirtbike when I went to change the rear tire.  I just hit it with some wd-40 and mine came out fine.  Had to tap it just a little to break it loos but it came out.  Once u get it out before you put the axle back in coat the axle in bearing grease.  It will prevent it from happening again in the future. But make sure its a water proof grease like bearing grease for a boat trailer.  Hope u got it out to do whatever you had in mind.
Keep it shinny side up.