Topic: Dynamic timing

[Pawsoff]

So I borrowed a friends timing light (strobe inductive style) to do the dynamic timing, I was only getting intermitant strobes from it. I checked the connections quite a few times, clamped down to provide extra pressure, tried other spark plug wires, checked to see if polarity was an issue...  All I could think of is that where this is an old timing light (a "Snap On" none the less    ) and where it is primarily made for cars... perhaps it is not sensitive enough to pick up the signal from a motorcycle?

I picked up a digital multimeter on sale this afternoon, woot $8.92 !
I will try that method and do the static timing for now, saw a neat trick where someone set it to the audible tone and when the point gap just opened... the tone went out... tighten at that setting.

[Donzon]

Ya, my timing light doesn't pick up well either, seems to be a common problem.  Worked better before I replaced my resistor caps!

Don

[fmctm1sw]

Mine cheapo works pretty well actually.  I noticed it will skip beats on 2/3 though.  I like the dynamic approach since it will show me if my timing is bouncing around (which it does a little).

[Pawsoff]

Now I know this seems like a bit of a silly question but where as I have not to date set timing what marks.... exactly need to be lined up?
To my current knowledge it goes something to the tune of:
- idle at 1050 rpms
- adjust 1-4 to the "F" mark
- idle at 2500-3000 rpms
- adjust to inbetween the lines following the 1-4 mark
- repeat procedure for 2-3

now to memory my marks look something like this

//            //
T F  1-4

When they say adjust to the "F" do they mean the second hash mark? or the actual letter "F" ?
as for the increased idle I assume they refer to the 3rd and 4th lines to go between correct?

[fmctm1sw]

Now I know this seems like a bit of a silly question but where as I have not to date set timing what marks.... exactly need to be lined up?
To my current knowledge it goes something to the tune of:
- idle at 1050 rpms
- adjust 1-4 to the "F" mark
- idle at 2500-3000 rpms
- adjust to inbetween the lines following the 1-4 mark
- repeat procedure for 2-3

now to memory my marks look something like this

//            //
T F  1-4

When they say adjust to the "F" do they mean the second hash mark? or the actual letter "F" ?
as for the increased idle I assume they refer to the 3rd and 4th lines to go between correct?

Yeah, at idle, the letter "F" should line up on the mark.  When you rev it up, you will see two marks that are more clockwise than the "T" and "F."  I noticed that my point plate will not only rotate left and right but also will move slightly up and down (if that's clear).  Can make for a hell of a time setting it...

*edit* and I think it looks like this:
 1.4  |    |           ||
       T    F

[Pawsoff]

If the letters "T" and "F" are used then what are the two hash marks before them (counterclockwise) used for?

Also, using an entire letter for a timing mark... how accurate can that be? what part of the letter? left... middle... right?

[fmctm1sw]

If the letters "T" and "F" are used then what are the two hash marks before them (counterclockwise) used for?

Also, using an entire letter for a timing mark... how accurate can that be? what part of the letter? left... middle... right?

The little marks above the "T" and "F" line up with another mark.  Like this:

   |
|  |
T  F

The pair of hashmarks after (or before, however you look at it) the "F" are for your timing advance.  When you rev the engine up the spark occurs earlier.  If it was Ok on 1.4, it will be ok on 2.3 ....

Watch the timing light though, my cheapo shocked the hell out of me....

[Pawsoff]

Thanks to one of "Freezingprocess's" previous posts I borrowed these pics to help illustrate my dilema

the marks I have look like this





So there is no Line directly above the letter "F", do I just use the line that is closest to the letter "F" (the second has mark) or do I use the actual letter "F" itself to line up with?

any help is appreciated

[fmctm1sw]

Thanks to one of "Freezingprocess's" previous posts I borrowed these pics to help illustrate my dilema

the marks I have look like this





So there is no Line directly above the letter "F", do I just use the line that is closest to the letter "F" (the second has mark) or do I use the actual letter "F" itself to line up with?

any help is appreciated

Yeah, I think that looks a little different than mine but I'd wager that second line is for the "F" mark.  Use the line, not the "F."  The pair of dashes after that are for your advance (like 3000RPM +)...

[TwoTired]

The printing is to label the lines.  The lines are what you use to make the alignment.

[Pawsoff]

Thanks guys, the line not being directly above the letter they corresponded to was throwing me off a bit, I figured it would be orderly but I wanted to make sure.
From my searching on this topic, if I use a multimeter (just bought one on sale) with the audible tone, I adjust it so the tone just goes off when reaching the "F" line. It looks like some people use their fingers to manually rotate the shaft for fine tuning.

[keener]

I picked up a digital multimeter on sale this afternoon, woot $8.92 !
I will try that method and do the static timing for now, saw a neat trick where someone set it to the audible tone and when the point gap just opened... the tone went out... tighten at that setting.

Ya that was me, m still having trouble getting it right, key OFF, kill switch to STOP and test it that way and the sound should only be off when its at the F mark and comes right back on when it leaves the F mark?

[HondaMan]

Older inductive timing lights always had a hard time with the Honda coils. They are low-current coils, so as not to waste any excess electrical energy (typical Japanese engineering philosophy, here), so the spark is just enough, nothing extra. More modern lights, like the ones Sears sells now, work much better. I think my last one cost me $20.

The "F" mark should be right on the money at idle. Then rev up to 2500+ RPM; the timing should fall between the two advance marks.

If you find "jittery" timing (usually on 2-3), the shaft that holds the spark advancer on is misaligned at the crankshaft. This is easily fixed with a dial indicator: look here for instructions - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=34455.msg355662#msg355662 .

[fixahonda]

If you find "jittery" timing (usually on 2-3), the shaft that holds the spark advancer on is misaligned at the crankshaft. This is easily fixed with a dial indicator: look here for instructions - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=34455.msg355662#msg355662 .

Wow, I have this very problem. Thanks for the off hand tip!

[pablo78cb550]

so you set the timing.
then you set the advance??
wouldn't that throw the timing off?

[TwoTired]

Set the timing, then CHECK the advance.  If the advance is wrong, you have to work on the advancer.

Cheers,

[mikethejeepguy]

Just reading through this thread... and wanted to add this link to the resources. It includes a really handy flash animation of how timing works and how to set it.

http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rtiming.html

MIke

[fire_strom]

Just reading through this thread... and wanted to add this link to the resources. It includes a really handy flash animation of how timing works and how to set it.

http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rtiming.html

MIke

That rocked,
 thanks
Scott